A post was split to a new topic: Blue Series Signal Issues/Performance
Are you in the United States? Not that I do a ton of electrical, but I’ve never seen Robinson in the wild, much less on switches or outlets.
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Many Electricians use ECX screwdrivers when installing devices…kinda of the best of all worlds I suppose.
I use square drives on my circuit breakers/bus bars (I’m in the US) as it doesn’t strip as easy and I can torque to spec.
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I am in the US and the option of using a Robertson has been pretty widespread for at least 15 years. It is usually part of a philips/flathead/square combo on the screw. It is popular enough that Klein 10in1 or 11in1 screwdrivers include two common sizes for square bits.
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Yep, in the US LeGrand, Pass and Seymour, Leviton, etc all use Robertson screws.
The Red series has Robertson screws as well. Maybe due to the change of manufacturer?
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We’ll get this added, great call-out. I honestly never heard of this until today, but it makes a lot of sense. Ironically, as @Bry mentioned, we had it on our Red Series (I had no idea!) so it shouldn’t be too hard to add to either our next batch or the following one depending on what’s been sourced already.
Today I learned! Thanks 
Hopefully this will be fixed by adding the Robertson screw mentioned above, but just out of curiosity, are you using an impact driver or something? I haven’t had any stripping issues and I’ve been moving these to/from different setups for the past few months. Not to say it’s not happening on your end or that I got a good batch or something, but just curious.
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I was using a standard flat head screw driver that was properly sized for the flat head channel on the screw. I was just screwing it in as normal with one neutral wire on each side of the screw in its respective location. Both wires were 14AWG solid Copper. I have worked with electricians who like to crush their connections a lot hard than I screwed this in. There is a chance that I just got a bad screw, and it is honestly not a problem because I will not be moving these around after installing them.
Gotcha – makes sense. Well, hopefully with the changing of screws that should fix things. I’ll also be able to note in the directions to use the Robertson for a better grip!
When turning the switch on/off. If there is a ramp time and it interrupts the current ramp you overwrite the current dim level. For instance.
If you turn the switch on, and while it’s ramping on If you then turn it off. The next time you turn it on it will return to whatever point in the ramp you turned it off.
Ramping in/out or ramping to a dim value should ideally never overwrite the last set dim value.
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This is specifically the setting that is default. Match last state. It will match the state when the off was commanded at the switch.
Are you saying that if you turn it “on” and it’s ramping that it should go to the state it would be at if it weren’t interrupted?
Weird one to look at, but I had the ground conductor go too deep in from back of switch on one of mine through to the front and when I went to press on button, it wouldn’t depress because conductor was holding it up. Too much penetration
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I had the same problem on the first one I installed. It seems like a simple molding change could prevent this from happening.
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Interesting, I’ll have to double check this. Does it cause electrical shorting or does it just block the paddle?
It’s just the frontside of the ground screw, so unless you have line tied to ground and/or a bad circuit breaker, it should be fine.
As a visual reference:
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One of the things I like about other switches (non-smart) is they give you a depth gauge on the switch for the press-fit holes. Gives me a good idea of how far to strip back.
Noting that ANY tooling change requires significant cost though… no matter how small.
I believe there is a strip example on the back of these. Hmmm. Mine is temporarily in a box for testing so not a huge deal. I only noticed it after removing faceplate for another issue.
Nice, must be a production unit thing as my beta unit I’m pretty sure didn’t have one.
Doesn’t help for typical ground, which doesn’t have sheathing
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Recommend not penetrating it so deeply then.
The scenario I am talking about is this.
- set switch brightness to 100%.
- power off switch
- as it ramps off (fades from 100-off) interrupt this when it’s at, say, 20% brightness and turn it on again.
- you would expect it would return to 100% because that’s the last value I set the brightness to. But it will actually restore to whatever brightness value it was at in the ramp when I interrupted it and turned it back on.