Blue Series 2-1 Switch - Enhancements/Bugs Thread

This is a placeholder for the 2-1 Switch Enhancements and Bugs.

Ability to select Leading/Trailing Edge Dimming

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I’m not sure if this is a limitation of the zigbee standard or if this can even be done in a firmware update but having the ability to bind multi-taps would be useful.

In my case, my office has overhead lights that are wired directly to the switch but also has two smart bulb floor lamps in a zigbee group. Being able to bind double tap up/down to those floor lamps would be awesome.

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Color Control Gestures
With bulbs that change color becoming more common, it would be good if there was a way to control the color from the switch. For example, a double click, but hold the 2nd click could cycle through the colors. Perhaps double click & hold up would cycle through RGB colors, double click & hold down would cycle through the white temperatures.
(This may already be possible with a hub & scenes, how about through direct bindings?)

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Add double tap to minimum brightness locally (same as double tap for maximum). This would avoid the need for the hub to process a rule.

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Screws that accept Robertson (square) screwdriver in the center.

I know it’s not applicable to this production run but Blue 2-1 switches are the first Inovelli product I’ve used so I’ll leave the comment here.

I recently replaced a bunch of outlets in my house and I got used to using a robertson (square head) screwdriver because it doesn’t cam out like a philips or slip like a slotted screwdriver. I was a little surprised that the blue switches didn’t have similar screw heads.

This article goes into more detail on the benefits of what seems to be the standard screw type on all the electrical outlets/switches I’ve dealt with lately besides yours: https://www.everydayhomerepairs.com/best-screwdrivers-diy-electrical/

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I noticed this immediately as well. The square drive bits are the better option for these screws and are increasingly common in even the cheapest of plugs and switches. I also noticed that the screws themselves are quite brittle compared to a standard single pole decora from any other brand. I cammed out on one of my installations and shredded a piece of the screw off with less force than I typically tighten screw terminals with.

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A post was split to a new topic: Blue Series Signal Issues/Performance

Are you in the United States? Not that I do a ton of electrical, but I’ve never seen Robinson in the wild, much less on switches or outlets.

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Many Electricians use ECX screwdrivers when installing devices…kinda of the best of all worlds I suppose.

I use square drives on my circuit breakers/bus bars (I’m in the US) as it doesn’t strip as easy and I can torque to spec.

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I am in the US and the option of using a Robertson has been pretty widespread for at least 15 years. It is usually part of a philips/flathead/square combo on the screw. It is popular enough that Klein 10in1 or 11in1 screwdrivers include two common sizes for square bits.

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Yep, in the US LeGrand, Pass and Seymour, Leviton, etc all use Robertson screws.

The Red series has Robertson screws as well. Maybe due to the change of manufacturer?

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We’ll get this added, great call-out. I honestly never heard of this until today, but it makes a lot of sense. Ironically, as @Bry mentioned, we had it on our Red Series (I had no idea!) so it shouldn’t be too hard to add to either our next batch or the following one depending on what’s been sourced already.

Today I learned! Thanks :slight_smile:

Hopefully this will be fixed by adding the Robertson screw mentioned above, but just out of curiosity, are you using an impact driver or something? I haven’t had any stripping issues and I’ve been moving these to/from different setups for the past few months. Not to say it’s not happening on your end or that I got a good batch or something, but just curious.

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I was using a standard flat head screw driver that was properly sized for the flat head channel on the screw. I was just screwing it in as normal with one neutral wire on each side of the screw in its respective location. Both wires were 14AWG solid Copper. I have worked with electricians who like to crush their connections a lot hard than I screwed this in. There is a chance that I just got a bad screw, and it is honestly not a problem because I will not be moving these around after installing them.

Gotcha – makes sense. Well, hopefully with the changing of screws that should fix things. I’ll also be able to note in the directions to use the Robertson for a better grip!

When turning the switch on/off. If there is a ramp time and it interrupts the current ramp you overwrite the current dim level. For instance.

If you turn the switch on, and while it’s ramping on If you then turn it off. The next time you turn it on it will return to whatever point in the ramp you turned it off.

Ramping in/out or ramping to a dim value should ideally never overwrite the last set dim value.

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This is specifically the setting that is default. Match last state. It will match the state when the off was commanded at the switch.

Are you saying that if you turn it “on” and it’s ramping that it should go to the state it would be at if it weren’t interrupted?

Weird one to look at, but I had the ground conductor go too deep in from back of switch on one of mine through to the front and when I went to press on button, it wouldn’t depress because conductor was holding it up. Too much penetration :slight_smile:

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I had the same problem on the first one I installed. It seems like a simple molding change could prevent this from happening.

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Interesting, I’ll have to double check this. Does it cause electrical shorting or does it just block the paddle?