Changing bulbs isn’t always an option - I have many fixtures that use odd sizes/shapes for bulbs that have few options for LED replacement. The six LEDs running on my lone Blue 2-1 are all Feit because I’ve been unable to locate any other vendors making bulbs in that shape (that are LED - incandescent versions are still on the market, at least for now). The fixtures are staying, because my wife says so. I agree with her, not because of aesthetics, but because I spent a good chunk of change on the new zigbee switches… why should I then have to spend even more on new fixtures that can accept the subset of LEDs that are compatible with forward-phase dimming? Then I’d need to buy the bulbs, too. Still anxiously waiting for Inovelli to provide conclusive word on this issue…
I’m not sure how’s you’d expect any company to design any device that works with 100% of bulb manufacturers out there. Just because it’s all based on the same leading edge or trailing edge doesn’t guarantee it’s going to work with the hundreds or thousands of bulb makers.
Here’s a list of compatible dimmers of Feit dimmable bulbs: https://www.feit.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Feit-Electric-Approved-Standard-Dimmers-1.pdf
If I had a chandelier that couldn’t be changed out due to aesthetic, costs, or desire, then I’d consider swapping in incandescent bulbs. If the fixture is only used a minimum amount of time then the cost of operation are negligible.
I don’t, but I would expect them to choose the dimming technology that is MOST compatible, which is NOT leading-edge. In the U.S., incandescent bulbs are soon to be much harder to come by, which means dimmers should be designed to work with their replacements (LEDs). Forward-phase dimming is not the best choice for LED compatibility.
I’m taking a stand on cost overages, here. I’m not willing to spend $1k on switches and then go out and blow more $ to replace the LEDs and fixtures that work perfectly fine with my existing zwave dimmers. I hate being stuck with the Zooz dimmers I have (not happy with responsiveness, nor with the feature set), but I may elect to keep them and pass on the 2-1s unless the dimming issue is solved.
Feel like we’ve already been through this.
Wider market for a single SKU (aka: non-neutral) beat out individual bulb compatibility.
Like, it’s done and out there. This is the blue series 2-in-1 switch. Changing to trailing edge dimming is NOT going to happen.
Non-neutral installations I guarantee you cover a substantially larger portion of the market than those with LED’s that can’t be changed and/or are incompatible with this dimmer.
Buy them, or don’t.
Thanks @kreene1987. Will wait for @Eric_Inovelli or @EricM_Inovelli to confirm this is also the company’s position.
We do the same thing. We still have lots of incandescent bulbs that need to be around for various reasons like this. Honestly as much as I want to be on the LED hype train, the actual savings seen is questionable at best with many different brands. Even “quality” LEDs have failed or started flickering after being only a year or two old. The cost savings in energy for us just hasn’t been realized compared to the flexibility and smooth dimming performance of a incandescent. Our power is cheap (7 to 8c per KWh) so I really need LED’s to last 5-10 years to pay for themselves.
Well, the engineer said detection of the dumb or aux switch is better with leading edge dimming, not that it’s impossible with trailing edge dimming. There has been no indication of how much harder or if software changes only could do it.
I agree. The energy savings is only realized if the bulb lifetime far exceeds that of the incandescents. The ‘marketing’ boast super long lifetime on the LEDs, but in reality that has not been my experience. So far, in my experience, LED have cost me more (higher upfront cost has not yet been offset by the energy savings).
I realize incans won’t be around much longer and I do run almost all LEDs in the house. But cost savings is not the reason.
@EricM_Inovelli Following up to see if a theoretical firmware update could change the leading/trailing edge setting? At the point where the other folks in the house are requesting that I sell/replace the switches due to the poor dimming functionality
And I’d like to request being able to dim even lower, if that’s possible via a firmware update. (At least for me, it’s fine if neutral is required for these dimming-related changes)
@kdkavanagh Unfortunately, our engineer has told us that it is not possible to change to trailing edge via firmware. At first it seemed like it may be possible if we were to disable aux / dumb switch detection, but later they determined that in that scenario it wasn’t possible either.
@dahanc I will have to check to see if this is possible.
I agree one hundred percent. My red dimmers go lower and I’m hoping this can be done. @EricM_Inovelli do you know if this is possible?
see EricM’s post directly above yours - he’s looking into it.
Derp. Missed that part. Thanks.
I think one of my Blue Series switches failed? It was working fine but now all of a sudden its stuck at 100% brightness. The LEDs on the dimmer show its changing the brightness but the bulbs are always full brightness. The switch also cannot detect the load when the aux switch is flipped. You can toggle the power with the on switch but the off button does not work.
I would first do a reboot by pulling the air gap to see if that resolves it. If it doesn’t, factory reset the switch and re-add it. (Config then up paddle until the LED turns red then release config then the paddle.)
If neither of those resolve the problem, since it was working properly prior, then that would suggest the switch is defective.
Still the same behavior after a factory reset. I think one of the mosfets failed short circuit the other open circuit. The relay is working.
@Jahnkeanater Sounds like it might have gone back to on/off mode or smart bulb mode. Which platform are you using? Can you change those settings to something else and then change them back to what they should be?
@EricM_Inovelli I’m using hubitat. I tried toggling switch/dimmer mode. It didn’t fix it. I’m powering 6 bulbs with a combined power of 78 Watts.