I have the light switch (power coming from light) going into the junction box shown. In the junction box the wire providing power it the white wire. It send the power to the black wire in the second picture. Then it goes back to the junction box and then over to the third picture. I have a Blue switch and a aux switch.
Can you post another picture of that 4 square box with the hot feed, but with the conductors pulled apart a little more. Particularly, pull that wire nut in the back up so I can see the connections.
I’m pretty sure that this is a non-neutral power to the light where you have a 3-wire going to each switch directly from the light. (In your case, it’s not directly from the light but from that 4-square box, which will actually make it easier.)
You’re correct (in your Reddit post) that there isn’t an Inovelli posted wiring solution. But it’s come up here a number of times, so there should be a wiring solution. I just want to take a better look at your connections.
Pls confirm . . In that 4-square box is a 2-wire with the white hot feed, and two 3-wires, presumably going to the switches? And you believe the 2-wire is coming from the light?
Also, if you can temporarily undo the wiring from the 2-wire.If you have a meter, you can first test between the black and white of the 2-wire to see if you get 120V, but I’m guessing you won’t since there isn’t a separate 2-wire going to the light. If you do get 120V, stop.
If no 120V or you don’t have a meter, touch the black and the white of the 2-wire together (or wire nut them together and flip the breaker). If that 2-wire is a non-neutral from the light with the white being the hot, the light should illuminate. (Otherwise it’ll pop the breaker.)
Yep, that’s what I was expecting. I see what you have but let’s double-check. Do the test I posted if you haven’t already:
Temporarily undo the wiring from the 2-wire.If you have a meter, test between the black and white of the 2-wire to make sure you DO NOT have 120V. I’m pretty sure you won’t. If you do have 120V, STOP.
If no 120V or you don’t have a meter, touch the black and the white of the 2-wire together (or wire nut them together and flip the breaker). If that 2-wire is a non-neutral from the light with the white being the hot, the light should illuminate. (Otherwise it’ll pop the breaker.)
Let me know!
I touched the black and the white of the two wire together and the light illuminated.
Ok, so what you have is a non-neutral configuration in the 4-square box. The hot and neutral originate at the light. The 2-wire between the light box and the 4-square box is a switch loop. The white provides the hot to the 4-square and the black is the switched hot going back. The neutral remains at the light box, hence the non-neutral configuration.
You are wiring an Inovelli and an Aux. We will do this in 2 stages.
The first stage is the Inovelli. All we’re really doing is extending the switch loop to the box for the Inovelli. Figure out which 3-wire goes to the switch box you want the Inovelli in. We’ll install the Inovelli in that box first as a 2-way, non-neutral. After that’s working we’ll add the Aux in the other box.
4-square box: Connect the black of the correct 3-wire to the white of the 2-wire. Connect the red of the correct 3-wire to the black of the 2-wire. Cap off the white of that 3-wire . . it won’t be used.
Leave the other 3-wire completely disconnected. We’ll use it when we add the Aux.
Switch box: Remove the dumb switch and replace it with the Inovelli. Black to Line, Red to Load. Cap off the white.
This is now a non-neutral 2-way. Add it to your hub and test for functionality. Depending on what your load is, you might need a bypass, since it’s a non-neutral.
Let me know!
Ok, So I did the first wave, just setting up the inovelli. The switch turns on and I can change settings in home assistant. The issue is when I turn off the switch the bulbs stay on but are just really dim. Haven’t found a setting to make it work.
So make sure the switch is really off. Quick press down on the bottom paddle. Some have mistakenly HELD the down paddle thinking that will turn off the light. That just dims it down to the lowest dim level.
Double-check in HA, or turn it off in HA. If the bulbs are still dim when the switch is really off, you’ll need a bypass at the light fixture. Your bulbs have a really low threshold and the power leaked to power the switch is keeping them on.
Here is the 2nd piece for the Aux.
The Aux needs a hot (because this is a non-neutral) and the Traveler from the Inovelli.
At the Inovelli box, uncap the white and connect it to the Traveler terminal on the Inovelli.
At the 4-square box, connect the whites of the two 3-wires together. This will send the Traveler to the Aux. Connect the black of the 3-wire going to the Aux to the black/white hot bundle to send the hot to the Aux. Cap off the red of the 3-wire going to the Aux.
At the Aux, connect the black (hot) to the Neutral terminal (because this is a non-neutral). Connect the white to the traveler terminal. Reconfigure HA to reflect you are using the Aux.
The bypass goes between the hot and neutral at the light.
I didn’t go back and reread the entire thread, but I see that I said it was a non-neutral. If that is the case, power is not going to the light first. It goes to the switch first. The black wire to that light is the switch hot coming from the switch.
That worked. Now I have a smart switch and the bypass in, how do I make the 3 way switch a dump switch or an aux switch? You have helped so much!
I need to go to an aux or a dumb switch from this box. It is coming in from the light and then out to smart switch, everything on other switch is unhooked.
If you are asking how to wire the Aux switch, read my January 20th post.
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Never mind I am sorry I made a really dumb mistake. You help me a lot and I got it. Thank you so much.
What specifically isn’t working? Does the dimmer still work correctly? Is it just the Aux that isn’t controlling the dimmer?
Ok, great! Out of curiosity, what was it? I’ve been sitting here staring at your pics, lol.