I have a ceiling fan that I currently control with a remote (integrated LEDs, no pull cords). At the wall, it’s controlled with a single switch that is either on or off for the entire fan. There is no neutral wire.
I was thinking I could get a blue canopy module and could pair it with a blue on/off switch and just hook everything up with Zigbee bindings. Is this even possible since my switch on the wall controls power to the entire fan?
Yes, that’s doable.
First, make sure that your fan motor has an AC motor. The canopy will not work with DC motors.
To wire the canopy module, you’ll have to remove the existing remote receiver and wire the canopy module in its place.
Since you have no neutral at the switch, that suggests that power is being fed to the fan box. That means switch is wired in what is known as a switch loop. At the fan box, you will rewire the 2-wire going to the switch so that is sends a hot and neutral to the switch box.
At the switch box, you will wire the switch with the hot and neutral, with no load. This makes the switch a scene controller and will allow you to bind a blue switch or dimmer to the blue canopy module.
At the fan box, you will rewire the 2-wire going to the switch so that is sends a hot and neutral to the switch box.
Would this require fishing any wire through the walls or just swapping something out only at the fan box?
Just rewiring. If you don’t understand that sentence, you should probably consult with an electrician.
Ahhh took me a second but I realized what you mean now.
On a similar note, I have a switch connected to a light fixture that I don’t use. I want to put a Red 2-in-1 in for Z-Wave associations with another switch. I want to be able to use single taps without turning on the light. Any advice here? I think it has a neutral, but I’d have to check.
Same thing. Just provision the switch with a hot and a neutral. If it has a neutral in the box, then just remove the load conductor and connect it to the hot if you want the light it’s controlling to be powered full time. If you don’t want the light powered at all, just cap off the load conductor.
If it doesn’t have a neutral in the box, that means it’s on a switch loop, so do the same thing as I described above.
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