Do you know if the node was included with security? If it was you will need to load your security key before you can communicate with it.
If it isn’t that then it might be the range. Other than that I’m not sure.
@neutronspin @EricM_Inovelli @Eric_Inovelli - et. all Hubitat Users - I’m currently flashing my first device without having to remove any switches from my Hubitat. I’m using the procedure that I listed above. So far, I’ve written just over 900 packets on the first Target 0. Seems way easier than excluding, including, excluding, including the device; then trying to match rule machine back.
Only issue I’m finding is there’s so many listed so trying to find the correct switch is a bit much. I’m just looking for firmware 1.35 and going from there. If there’s an easier way to find which ID is associated to which switch, then I’m all ears.
Yeah it’s included with security. Thanks for the heads up. It’s weird that other nodes load fine and they use security as well.
I noticed they are listed by node id. You can remember what ID it was in Hubitat and cross reference. If you just added the node it will be the last one on the list
@skynet - So I just flashed my dining room light one. It’s listed in Hubitat as Network ID as 20. In Z-Wave PC Controller (req for firmware) it polled the devices and is listed as Node ID 32. I’m not sure how it correlates. I literally had no idea which one is was updating until it started flashing blue. Is there another place in HE to check for Node ID?
So in Hubitat the node IDs are in hexadecimal. In the pc controller software they are decimal. You can use a conversion table like this one for reference:
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@EricM_Inovelli - ugh…for some reason that didn’t click last night. Thanks. Got through 9 of 14 last night. Goes much quicker if you take your laptop near the switch.
If you go to Settings > Z-Wave Details in Hubitat, you’ll also see the IDs listed in both decimal and (in parentheses) hexadecimal. However, you do have to do that before removing the stick, or I don’t think you’ll see that table at all anymore (you definitely won’t see it if you disable Z-Wave, which I normally to do be extra cautious before removing the stick).
I just went through updating firmware on all my LZW31 dimmers. Happy to report that the OTA firmware update itself went smoothly (no lockups, no bricking, etc.). 
HOWEVER, the need to first remove the devices from my SmartThings network, update, then add them back is a royal pain in the a$$. The process is relatively simple, but the fact that they are added back as new devices means all the rules, notifications, routines, smartapps, etc. all have to be manually reset and reprogrammed. 
Please please please work on a way to update firmware in a device while maintaining its original identity in the zwave network 
I dont think hubs are able to do a firmware update unless it has been included in the network. If your hub supports OTA updates, you do not need to exclude it. I use Home Assistant with a Z-Stick. All I had to do was plug the Z-sick into a windows computer and perform the update, then put it back. No exclusion/inclusion needed.
It sounds like you already updated everything, but you might have been able to do the following (I have not tested this though)
- Factory reset your switch (but do not exclude it from SmartThings first)
- Include the switch on your Z-Stick
- Update Firmware
- Exclude the switch from the Z-stick
- Do a “Replace Device” in Smartthings to essentially replace the device with itself. This might allow you to keep all your rules/notifications/etc.
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I use a SmartThings hub and as far as I know, it does not [currently] support OTA updates. EricM@Inovelli mentioned they were working on something for OTA with ST but its not out and unknown ETA. I’m strongly suggesting that we need it sooner than later. If you have more than a few switches, its not practical to do the firmware update as documented now (exclude from ST, include to ZWavePC and update, then exclude from ZWavePC and add back to ST as new).
With that said, your suggestion of factory reset without excluding, update, then “replace” might work for keeping rules/scenes/notifications/etc. Unfortuntately, I have already updated and am in the long slow process of reprogramming back all the rules/etc. But I will keep it in mind and will try your suggestion if I need to do it again.
Has anyone use the builtin firmware upgrade device option in Homeseer to update the firmware?
Eric was hinting that Samsung was working on OTA updates in Smart Things, not Inovelli. Inovelli can’t do anything to change how that is handled. That’s up to Silicon Labs and each hub developer.
Yeah, unfortunately it is up to the hub manufacturer to integrate OTA updates into their hub. We have been discussing with SmartThings this capability and are trying to work with them on it. The reason that our instructions show the method that they do is that it is the most straight forward option with the fewest technological hurdles that can apply to the majority of users. As an alternative you do have a few options (for next time).
As @jtronicus mentioned, you can use the replace method that SmartThings has. There is one additional thing to note for this though. When you reset a z-wave device many newer devices (last few years) will send a “Device Reset Locally” report (as per z-wave specs) to the hub before they reset. The hub is supposed to remove the node at this point. SmartThings will respond to this report by removing the device. So, I recommend that you power off the SmartThings hub while you reset it if you want to use the replace option.
The second option is to include the Z-stick into your SmartThings network as a secondary controller. You put the SmartThings hub into inclusion mode and click on the “Learn” icon in the PC Controller Software. This should obtain the S0 security key that will be needed to update the switch.
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The second option is to include the Z-stick into your SmartThings network as a secondary controller. You put the SmartThings hub into inclusion mode and click on the “Learn” icon in the PC Controller Software. This should obtain the S0 security key that will be needed to update the switch.
Well that seems like the best way (keeping the switch included in the ST z-wave network and have the PC controller join the existing z-wave network to do OTA) I was wondering if that were possible and if it is, why is that not the preferred method? I’ll try it next time
Hi @EricM_Inovelli, can you clarify a few things with the firmware update?
- SmartThings classic app says (fw 1.4) after the attempted update; how do we know for sure if the update worked (1.41)?
- I downloaded 2 files from the support site (.bin & .otz) but the instruction only give direction for the .otz file. At what point do we use the .bin file?
Thanks
@ny_robert For number two, you use the .bin file to flash target 1. The otz file is for target 0. It’s vague on the webpage, but it’s in one of the notes squares.
I verified firmware on HE after flashing. I just had to hit the configure button and it refreshed. I also used the Zwave pc controller to verify. I hit Get after flashing both target 0 and 1.
I wonder if your SmartThings is cutting off some of the text. Mine is showing the full version.
You can look in the current states in the IDE to see as well.
The instructions for the two files are also at the top of the page:
Thank @harjms & @EricM_Inovelli. I re-flashed the firmware and the SmartThings IDE says 1.41. Classic App on iPhone still says 1.4, probably just getting cut off as you said.
@EricM_Inovelli just curious if there’s any more details on the idea of splitting firmware so there’s more room for features? There seems to be a fair amount of desire to have the local settings feature dropped for those of us using hubs that can manage those.