I am trying to figure out what I need to wire 4 switches and 7 light fixtures with no neutral. The power line in comes to a 3 way switch. Can someone tell me what I would need for switches and now to wire it? Following are pics in the order they are in the circuit.
I can’t see into the first (power) box as well as I would like, but I think I see how it’s wired.
If this is a non-neutral, then power is coming from the light over a 2-wire. You advised that the hot is on the white conductor (of the 2-wire, right?). The black from that same 2-wire is connected to the black screw on the 3-way switch in that first box, right?
If that is the case, start by taking more pictures and marking the conductors so they can be put back in the dumb configuration if need be.
Take the wire nut off the black/white (power) bundle temporarily and separate the two conductors. Remove the black from the 2-wire from the switch, temporarily. You now have the white and black conductors from the 2-wire detached. If you touch them together, the lights should illuminate. Confirm, pls.
Your assessment is correct. When I touch the white wire from the breaker to the black wire on the 3 way switch I get light to come on. The black wire on the switch is the black wire of the 2 wire from the breaker.
Ok great. So that’s a straightforward non-neutral multi-way.
The way it works is the 2-wire is coming from the light where the power originates. The white carries the hot to the first box, the black is the load wire, with the neutral remaining at the light box.
That hot is sent to the far box over the blacks, which is why it’s tied to the white in the first box. You’ll see the blacks of the 3-wires tied together at the 4-way switches, sending the hot down the line. At the last box, the black is connected to the common screw where the hot is returned switched through the boxes to the first box. It’s then sent to the light via the black of the 2-wire, which is connected to the common screw.
Provisioning this is straightforward. The Inovelli goes in the first box where the power arrives on the white. To start, wire it as a 2-way non-neutral and test. Just connect the 2-wire to the switch, white to Line and black to Load. Ensure this is working properly before proceeding.
Once that’s good, provision the remaining boxes with Aux switches. In a non-neutral, Aux switches need a traveler and a hot. You’ll use 2 of the 3 conductors on the 3-wires, the black and the red. Use red for the traveler, connected to the Inovelli’s Traveler terminal. Connect the black to the 2nd Line hole on the Inovelli. Cap off the white.
At the Aux boxes, red to Traveler and black to Neutral. Cap off the white. For the middle boxes, use the 2nd holes on the Aux to connect the 3-wire to the next box.
Re-configure the switch type to reflect you are using an Aux. Looks like this, except you’ll have more Auxs.
So what products do I need to wire this and will I need to wire bypasses in each of the light fixtures? I want to be able to control this with Apples Home app.
I’m not an Apple guy, but I think you need the White dimmer and Aux switches.
Are you using dumb bulbs in the fixtures? With 7 fixtures you probably won’t need a bypass.
Yes I am using dumb led bulbs. I just want to use an on/off switch instead of a dimmer. is there any reason I need to use a dimmer instead. Can I not use the exsisting dumb switches for the aux or is there a reason to buy aux switches.
For a light bulb load, you can use the dimmer. It has an on/off function so it will work like a regular on/off switch with no dimming. The lights will turn on instantly, just like a dumb on/off switch would. For your load, that will be fine. The dimmer is available today.
Inovelli is developing a true relay-based on/off switch, but that won’t be released until next year. For light bulb loads, it’s not necessary. That switch is for those that need a relay based on/off, for fans, transformers, etc.
Since you have a non-neutral, you’ll need to use Aux switches. Mated dumb switches only work with neutral configurations.
Also a true relay switch requires a neutral as far as I know. Dimmers can leak a little current through, relays usually don’t.
The dimmer is in stock but the aux switches are back ordered.
The Jasco and Homeseer auxiliary switches are also compatible.
Which model of jasco or homeseer do you use?
I use Inovelli’s.
If you are looking for alternatives, the GE/Jasco were tested by Inovelli some time ago and are reportedly compatible.
The older version is Jasco ZW2002 / GE 45610. The newer version (not sure what if anything changed) is Jasco ZW2004 / GE 12723. These may have been replace with newer models, however.
OK sorry to keep asking questions. I just want to run this by you. I will get 1- White Series • Thread / Matter Smart Dimmer (formerly known as the 2-1 Switch) then I found GE 12728 add on switches. They are the same as GE 12723 but are toggle switches. I can order 3 of these. I just want to check and make sure this will work in my situation. Thank you so much for your help.
I’m am pretty sure that is the proper toggle Aux. But it’s been a while since model numbers have been discussed, since Inovelli released their own Aux. @Lance_Inovelli , can you confirm this is a compatible Aux?
Lance never responded can you ask him again please.
Sorry, did not see this until about 15 minutes ago. It should the only difference between them is the paddle vs. toggle. I have not tested but after digging the specs are the same for both.
