As I’ve mentioned on other threads, I have around 8 Blue 2-1 switches that won’t take an OTA flash upgrade, so I was going to try the harness method. I thought I had all the hardware needed already—an SWD flasher, some wires, and header pins. But after looking at the switch, I realized that the holes on the switch aren’t spaced at 0.1"; it looks like they’re 1mm pitch (edit: or maybe 0.05"/1.27mm?).
The 1mm headers I’ve found so far don’t have very long pins—e.g., this one has about 2.5 mm on each side. And it’s about 6 mm from the front plate of the switch to the PCB underneath (I’d rather not need to open the switch up to get to the PCB, but just flash it through that opening in the front plate). The pics of the Inovelli harness I’ve seen show what look like some pretty long pins for the switch connector.
Any suggestions on how I can make the connector for the switch side of things?
Huh, I never thought of doing that I have breadboard jumper wires, but mine have about 6 mm of pin sticking out, and it looks like the ones you linked are a little longer. Do your pins actually fit in the holes on the switch, or do you have to hold them in place? Mine don’t fit in the holes, and the plastic part above the pins make it impossible to angle 5 pins to fit in there.
But if the pitch is 0.05" rather than 1mm, I did find some “stacking” headers with extra long pins that seem like they’d work, like these. Edit: found some regular (non-stacking) headers with extra long pins.
It’s very tight and the pins up end up all directions. Assuming the switch is installed in the normal orientation start with the top left and go down. Obviously turn off the breaker first.
The breadboard wires I have won’t fit, so I decided to get some actual header pins, etc. I ended up getting the Samtec TMS that I had linked to earlier (specifically TMS-110-57-G-S, which has 10 pins, and I cut it into two 5 pin headers). While soldering wires onto it probably would have worked fine, I got a Samtec ISDF-05-S connector. The wires I have are too big for that connector though, so it didn’t work out that well–but it does work.
Well the hardware part works at least. Now I seem to be having problems on the software side of things. I was hoping to use pyOCD to do the flashing, but it seems to be trying to read some memory that doesn’t exist and giving an error. And OpenOCD doesn’t support the Series 2 EFR32 chips (such as the EFR32MG21 that’s in the switch).
But hopefully I’ll be able to find some free flashing software that works with my DAPLink.
I have breadboard jumper wires, but mine have about 6 mm of pin sticking out, and it looks like the ones you linked are a little longer. Do your pins actually fit in the holes on the switch, or do you have to hold them in place? Mine don’t fit in the holes, and the plastic part above the pins make it impossible to angle 5 pins to fit in there.
