All mine are with SmartThings using the Inovelli smart app and DH.
As a side note I have programmatically made the switch “act” the same way by having all scenes and automations turn the smart lights and the switch ON at the same time. This way when a light is turned on from the switch using a scene it will still turn on the lights!
Oh: all using neutral wires! And I did a test last night by leaving the lights on that is connected to the single pole LZW30-SN. And it still turned it self off!
The HE drivers are dumbed down. Probably ok for the beginner but not for advanced users who want to take advantage of everything.
All switches using neutrals ?
So now I am thinking this isn’t hub specific and more like a hardware/firmware issue. Do any of the switches get overly hot just before it switches off ? If you have a way to check the temp of the switch after it switches off please do and report it here.
How would one go about checking the temperature of a switch before it turns off randomly?
What tech would I need to accomplish this task?
Some people have temperature guns that can do this. They are cheap these days, Amazon has them for around $20.
I know it’s random and it was just a thought that this could also be the issue. I’ll have to wait for my testing to be finished to rule out overheating.
This is what I use. https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/
I would consider a BBQ thermometer taped to the aluminum plate of the dimmer.
The non-contact temperature “guns” are fine but unless you are an inch away will average the dimmer aluminum plate, the plastic toggle, the wall nearby and any device in the same wiring box.
That is an excellent idea. And to make sure you caught it when it turned off I would make Echo Speaks tell you so you can go look at the temp.
Well as the switch turns off when only drawing 3W of power. Hard to believe it would be over heating.
Good point. Just a guess here but is it possible there is not enough load? Why that would matter I can’t even guess. But as a troubleshooting test if it does or does not randomly shut off with a higher load would be good to know.
BTW: I am not associated with Inovelli I just like their dimmers and have a lot of time on my hands 
My switch has been on 12 hours now.
I’ll see if there is a working load. 3W for a smart switch may not be enough.
This might be the the relay you had questions about.
@DRMiller
How many watts is being pulled by your switch ?
So to clarify. When the lights are off the switch is registering about 3w of power use. It eventually drops to like .5 and then soon turns itself off. When in use it is drawing in the lowest use case about 20W
The issue is when smart lights are turned off. The switch eventually turns off… if relay is not bypassed and switch left on but smart lights still turned off there is no problem.
But of course I need the switch relay bypassed to not have the smart lights lose power by having the switch turn off…
I have a question regarding the goal of such a setup. I don’t use smart lights so I can’t test it myself.
I’ve read there are a lot of folks using your configuration but its not clear to me what going through the LZW30 gains your system.
If you discount the Z-Wave path from the LZW to the Smart bulb but only look at the hardware path.
LZW Load terminal ----> Smart Light.
If the internal relay is “bypassed” is the “Load terminal” always on? If so then wouldn’t it be logical to connect the smart light wire right to the Line?
Or is there more “hardware” control than meets the eye?
John
Hi,
When using smart lights one never wants them to lose power. You can’t Alexa or hey google them if their power is cut. Smart lights can change colour and not just dim so having them always on is necessary for controlling these properties through automation and scenes. And when one has like 9 pot lights on one switch having only one or two turn on instead of all nine is only possible using smart lights cuz one can control them individually.
The other issue is not being able to cut power to the lights if needed. Which is sometimes necessary for zigbee lights to have them reconnect to the network. The air gap switch would no longer work and then one would have to trip the breaker every time. Also cutting power to more than just the one light switch. Or one would have to remove the bulb each time… which is a little difficult when the bulb in question is a ceiling light …on ten foot ceilings…
As well it is one of the innovelli switch’s features that competing switches do not have…yet
Oh and it’s probably against most building codes to hard wire light switches like that 
Thanks for the reply. It’s the air gap I hadn’t considered. I learned something today
John
Screen grab of when the switch turns off. Smart LED’s have been off the entire time energy is reported at 3-4W usage. One is on a three way and one is on single. They are on different breakers.
As a test I changed the bulb to a colour and low enough dimming that the switch was also using about 4W of power, lights are still on just red and dim… and the switch still turned itself off.
Once again : switch is still controllable through ST but it reports itself as being ON. Scene control still works from switch as well.
Responding to …
@DRMiller
How many watts is being pulled by your switch ?
This is the data from the switch immediately after polling it The switch has turned off a couple of days ago. The Smart light is not working (no power). The power state is inaccurately reported.
From what I can see, their is no change in the energy or power in any of these states. Here are the parameters for the switch (dimmer).
@anon64478871 - I know you have been scratching your head on this one, cuz we as users are experiencing it, but you might not have seen it happen yet with your testing.
Some observations that may be helpful and see if other users experiencing this are in a similar situation.
First when the smart LED’s are turned off through ST or directly by their own app, the LZW30-SN will still register some power usage as each LED light that is OFF has to draw some power to keep it connected to the zigbee or WiFi network. On my 4 or more led light scenarios the switch reports a power usage of at least 3W. These all seem to eventually turn off the internal relay and then of course report 0W usage as the LED smart lights can no longer draw any power and are no longer connected to any wireless network.
HOWEVER - the one switch that is connected to only 3 LED smart lights reports power usage of not more than 2W from the 3 lights at any time… and so far this switch has rarely turned off…
So it looks like a trickle of power usage above 3W will pressure the switch into turning off where a power usage 2W and lower does not.
I have been able to confirm this somewhat as 4 of my LED’s are RGB ones and they can be lowered to levels where the light is definitely still on, but the switch only reports 4W of usage. In this scenario I have visually seen the switch turn off, even heard the relay click. Will now test with a W level for these lights at 5-6W of power to see if lights still turn off or remove one LED light so power is below 2W.
So in your testing please make sure the power levels recorded while the smart light is off is 3W or above to possibly replicate the issue.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Richard
I have a switch on the way that is doing this and will be testing it next week to find out what is going on. I still got a feeling this is a hardware issue or a bad lot that got by QA.
Scott,
Let me know if you want me to send my dimmer switch to you for testing. It is still not working properly. I bought the 4-dimmer switch package. I have only installed one because of thus issue.
[email protected]
Let me see what Eric wants to do first. I’ll see if he is around tomorrow evening.
I’ll add my data point here:
I have two of the red series dimmers -one load only with no problems, another in a 3-way with the random turning off problem. Both from the same pre-order batch 0919. On Smartthings with the Inovelli device handler. After first installing the 3 way this morning, it would turn off a few seconds after turning it on. Seems a bit more random now that a couple hours have passed.
I tried changing the auto-off parameter to a high value, 7200, but that did not have an effect, so it is back at 0.
