I have two of the new LZW31-SN Red Series Dimmer Switches. Both in neutral-wire single-pole installations, connected to SmartThings.
Over the last three days, one or the other or both of them suddenly become completely unresponsive. I’ll try to turn off the light, and nothing happens. Physical switch does not respond, trying to use SmartThings does not work, nada. Regular on/off button press does nothing, double/triple taps do nothing, holding up/down for dimming does nothing, favorite button does nothing. The only way to get it to respond again is to reset the associated breaker.
I have a number of other Inovelli switches around the house and no shortage of other Z-Wave repeaters, and these two switches are the only ones with problems. Wife Acceptance Factor on these is now zero, so I’ll probably put back the dumb switches that were there before unless there’s an easy solution here.
In the case most similar to yours, I have two LED bulbs in a neutral-wire installation, but the LZW31-SN freaks out when the bulbs’ power draw gets below some magical threshold and “turns off” but also becomes completely unresponsive to local or Z-Wave commands to turn back on. It does not seem to happen when the bulbs are at full power. My added complication that these are smart bulbs and so the actual power of the load can vary depending on their configuration, but with the neutral wire, I assume this shouldn’t matter.
Are you sure that pulling the air gap at the bottom of the dimmer doesn’t work? That works for me and should be more or less the same from the switch’s perspective.
I still don’t know what’s going on, but if a load that draws more current works around your problem, I suspect it’s similar to mine.
Yep, the air gap just pulls out, sometimes with great difficulty, and it (as far as I can tell) completely cuts power to both the load and all aspects of the switch (radio/circuitry). On some older GE ones I think it only cut power to the load, but those are the only ones I’ve heard of where that happens.
And I agree, their problems sound like the load just toggling to off, whereas I think we’re experiencing some sort of failure that renders the switch unusuable until it’s power cycled, though it also happens to turn the load off (at least in my case).
The air gap does seem to work, so that’s good to know for next time it happens.
One of the two switches I have is controlling a light fixture with three 60W equivalent Philips LED dimmer bulbs. The other is controlling a fixture with five IKEA dimmable LEDs. I don’t recall the exact type/model for either one.
Are the dimmers grounded? It’s strange that it’s happening on two different circuits with different generation switches. Maybe a voltage surge or leak somewhere? Maybe even a wonky GFCI on the same circuit?
There’s a little piece of plastic at the bottom of the switch that you can pull forward (out towards you away from the wall) which cuts power to the switch. When you push it back in, the switch resets and usually works again.
Unfortunately it doesn’t solve the problem permanently. My switch gets stuck like this at least once a week which is annoying – enough that I’ve only kept the one in my own bathroom, as my wife would NOT put up with a simple light switch that stops working once a week.
Just checking back in a few months later to note that this issue never resolved itself – the switch goes dead at least once a day and will be getting swapped out soon for a GE Switch. A light switch that can’t switch the light can’t stay any longer.
Correct, those are the correct instructions. It’s another expense, but until SmartThings allows/programs OTA updates, it’s a necessary…Fortunately, for us Hubitat users, there is an alternative other than buying a Z Wave USB.
I found one of the sticks on eBay for cheaper, so I’ll give that a try, but it’s super frustrating that this is even necessary. It’s a light switch. I get that the “smart” functions are subject to lots of complicated software interactions, but on/off by itself should not ever fail.
I don’t know if anyone has followed those firmware update instructions lately but they are not as foolproof/easy as advertised. The software required is not intuitive to find (the provided link is not current), the interface is different, and the OTA update never went through. “Should take 5-10 minutes” – I gave up after it was processing for 30.
So… unfortunately I think I’m still going to have to swap the switch out for something else. :-/