I will bug them again. They are shifting around resources and have not been as responsive as normal. Don’t worry, I haven’t forgotten about you.
Adding a comment as I just installed my first Inovelli switch (lzw31-sn) along with a Homeseer Ha-100 auxillary switch in a non neutral setup. Same issue with aux not turning off and same temp solution of changing to neutral and setting dimming to 70%. Voltage at traveler is 49.8V with aux switch not pressed and 105V with up pressed and 98.5V with down pressed. At that time I had a mix of fluorescent and 8.8w FEIT led bulbs (2 bulbs in 2 fixtures) I replaced the LED bulbs with incandescents and it seemed to be working just fine. The I changed over to all be 14W FEIT brand LED bulbs. They started flashing so I installed a aeotec bypass and everything was working again without issue. Those LEDs were too cold so I switched them back to the warmer 8.8W LEDs and the issue came up again, aux won’t turn light off unless dimmer is set to 70%. So for some reason it’s associated with the 8.8W FEIT brand Led bulbs.
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I’ll add on that I’m having a similar problem with non-neutral configuration with a GE aux switch and a load of 2 40W incandescent bulbs, and also I’m hoping for a solution
Would like to add that I have the exact same issue. 3 way set up using a Gen2 Black series dimmer and GE add on. It will turn off from the aux but will not turn on. Changed it to switch type neutral and max level 85% and it worked. Changed it back to non neutral power setting and for some reason it continued to work. But still at max level 85%. Increasing the level to 95-100% causes switch to act weird. Lights turn off and led on switch also turns off.
What firmware version are you using?
Sorry, I did not take a note before I removed it from Smartthings and added to Home Assistant. I will take a note tomorrow and post back.
Application Version: 1.35
Is this the attribute I should be looking at for Firmware version?
That is an older firmware version that may be corrected with an update. Since you are using HA I am guessing you have a Z-stick? I know several people in this forum will take the Z-Stick over to a Windows PC and use the PC Controller software to upgrade the firmware.
Just found this thread… Having the same issue… Will try suggestions on here tomorrow…
I am running Home Assistant, but I cant change any parameters in my zwave for the device like above users can… Any idea on that ?
I’m experiencing this with 3 of my 5 Red series dimmer switches in 3-way with GE Addon switches.
This is obviously an issue, and hasn’t yet been rectified.
I’m running the lastest beta firmware (1.52)
Few quick questions that I didn’t really see answered here or elsewhere. I have a neutral in one box and not the other. The 2nd box looks really weird to my electrician. We know it was jury rigged as it is in a blue plastic box and all the other boxes are metal in conduit. He thinks it was wired from the light fixture. So I don’t know how that effects the wiring.
2nd Question is that I’ve seen people suggesting the GE 46199, which I ordered the other day, but it says it requires a neutral switch. Obviously the whole point of this thread is a no neutral situation, so I’m a little confused.
3rd Question is: I had bought an Inovelli Red dimmer assuming there would be a neutral in both places. I know this whole discussion is about non-neutral situations but my electrician warned me that attaching just a line and a ground could fry the switch sooner than otherwise. Is that correct? Is it safe to use a Red dimmer in both the line and load boxes.
Apologies for gravedigging this post, but I noticed something interesting while rebuilding my Zwave network the other day. I have two 3 way switches in my house, one always works perfectly fine without fail, the other is nothing but problems.
By accident, I sourced my problem to being related to the brightness level. My setup is a 3 way non-neutral set up without a bypass (I have two bulbs which total 30W). If I set the brightness to 60%, the aux switch turns the light on and off without fail. But the second the switch hits a brightness 63% or higher, it’ll turn the light on, but only turn it off if you press both up and down at the same time on the switch. If I cap the brightness at 62% (which works great for me thankfully), the aux switch works 100% of the time. And I know I posted this earlier in the set up, but for some reason configuring my switch as a neutral wire setup works the best.
Also interesting to note, if you configure your aux switch as a netural at a brightness value above 63%, the aux switch can turn the light on but not off.
If you configure the switch to be a non-neutral switch, you can’t turn the light on, but once it does go on you can turn it off successfully 100% of the time.
In either case, if you hit up and down at the same time on the aux switch, you can turn your light off successfully first try (neutral config) or turn the light on first try (non-neutral config).
Hope this helps others experiencing this same issue. Try messing around with brightness values if your aux switch does one action successfully, but not the other.
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We have released firmware 1.54 that hopefully fixes this issue. Please let us know.
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The new firmware does not seem to work for me with the aux control. I was using the workaround where I set the switch to neutral (even though it’s non neutral install) and that was working. However, now with the latest firmware, if I set the config to neutral, the switch enters a loop of flashing led indicator lights until I change the config to non neutral.
Only thing I can think of is that I had the config set to neutral when I flashed it so maybe it entered a panic mode and didn’t finish the update? I can try to flash the firmware again configured with non neutral set, maybe that help.
Anyone able to get this to work?
Same experience for me. I had it wired non-neutral with “Neutral” selected in the parameters and it was working great on v1.52
Immediately after the 1.54 upgrade it started doing the red/green/blue reboot cycle.
I changed the parameter to Non-Neutral and it stopped, but now I can’t toggle on from the aux switch.
I saw a note on the 1.54 release notes that said “ Fixed - Aux Switch Not Causing Scenes to be Sent” and I was hoping that meant we would be able to do multiple taps on the aux switch just like the dimmer. I wouldn’t have upgraded otherwise.
Yep - that’s exactly why I upgraded as well. I thought the AUX switch would support scenes based on release notes. Was anyone able to get this firmware to work properly with their aux switch?
I have a 3 way set up in 2 places (Red dimmer + GE AUX) - one is connected to a regular light bulb and another using an ilumin smart bulb with local control disabled (zwave association). I’m seeing the same issue on both configurations where the on toggle does not work.
I think I will have to revert this firmware because the aux is unusable now. However, I’m also considering swapping out the Aux switch with one of those Zooz remotes instead. Does anyone know if I can just disconnect the AUX switch and cap both wires in the Aux box without changing the wiring on the Red Dimmer switch?
@rbf @melonhead Were you able to flash the bin file to target 1?
Can you try a factory reset on one of them after you have confirmed that both target 0 & target 1 are flashed?
Yes, I flashed both targets. I just tried upgrading to firmware 1.55 thinking that might help. I did a factory reset and same result - up on auxiliary switch does not work (it actually turns off the light if the light is currently on). Down turns off the light, holding up/down results in dimming the light down.
No dice for me either. I excluded the device from my controller, and then I also did a factory reset by holding the button 20 seconds.
I re-included it and reconfigured, but the aux switch still won’t turn it on.
I confirmed the upgrade worked as best I could. COMMAND_CLASS_VERSION says 1.55, and I flashed the 1.44 bin on target 1 multiple times.
I’m going to roll back to 1.52 for now.
I think I’ll eventually re-arrange some things. With my wiring the way it is now, I can splice hot and neutral to the dimmer with no load and put a Z-Wave bulb in the lamp socket (always powered). Then I can control the light with Z-Wave association.