My Dimmer switch works great with on and off. But the Aux switch will only turn light off. There are few times Aux turned on the light by rapid clicking. But I was not able to duplicate it at all.
I did go thru the troubleshooting process multiple time by making sure dimmer is set with 3-way and aux.
What else can I do to troubleshoot?
My old and new wirings are exactly as this picture.
@thenestcafe - Not to disagree with your wiring, but the Inovelli has a white colored wire connected to the Traveler port and the Aux switch has a Red wire connected to it. There’s something amiss here. I would expect to see the red wire on the Inovelli or the white wire that is connected to the Traveler port to the traveler port of the Aux switch.
Sorry to confuse you. I posted the wrong picture. I edited the post with the correct one. Thank you!
What are your settings for parameters 21 and 22?
To add to @Bry’s comment, you can program this from the switch as well. If I had to guess the issue is the parameters he mentioned are off. Here’s a video that should help!
21 = 0
22 = 2
So the parameters are correct. A couple things to try:
1 - Try resetting the parameters using the switch. Change to an improper parameter, then change back to the proper one. There have been reports of applications improperly reporting parameters or parameters not “sticking”.
2 - Which Aux are you using? is it one of these:
3 - What type of bulb(s) and housing? Can you temporarily switch to an incandescent?
4 - I can double-check your wiring if you post pics with the switches fully pulled out and so that I can see clearly all the way into the back of the boxes. That includes what is in back of other switches in the box.
Do you have pics of the wiring BEFORE you swapped out for the Inovelli?
Do you have a volt meter (as opposed to an inductive tester) if we need to troubleshoot?
1 - Try resetting the parameters using the switch. Change to an improper parameter, then change back to the proper one. There have been reports of applications improperly reporting parameters or parameters not “sticking”.
2 - Which Aux are you using? is it one of these:
3 - What type of bulb(s) and housing? Can you temporarily switch to an incandescent?
4 - I can double-check your wiring if you post pics with the switches fully pulled out and so that I can see clearly all the way into the back of the boxes. That includes what is in back of other switches in the box.
Do you have pics of the wiring BEFORE you swapped out for the Inovelli?
Do you have a volt meter (as opposed to an inductive tester) if we need to troubleshoot?
Presuming the above is correct, try it first as a 2-way non-neutral. Just wire in the two conductors from the 2-wire. Leave the 3-wire Romex out of the equation. See if that works. (Change parameter 22 to 0.)
My thought process here is trying to isolate things to identify the problem. If you temporarily wire it as a 2-way, you take the Aux out of the question.
If it doesn’t work as a 2-way, you either have a bad switch or there is something related to your lights. What’s hanging around in the back of my mind is that you have lights with motion sensors. The single LED has it removed, so that should not be a factor. But the shop lights have the sensors disabled. In not sure how a “disabled” sensor factors into the voodoo science Inovelli uses to make a non-neutral work.
So another couple possibilities could be that your load is still not sufficient or the motion sensors on the shop lights are causing issues. A test around this would be to disconnect the shop lights and the single LED light. Get a bulb socket with leads (like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Weatherproof-Socket-Black-R60-00055-000/100356874 ) and wire it in temporarily with the highest wattage incandescent bulb you can find. This will take your shop and LED lights out of the equation for testing.
Thank you for you help. 2-way works as suggested. Also, I was able to to unplug all 8 shop lights and plug in a Incandescent Clamp Light. Both switches works flawlessly. So, the wiring should be correct.
I think the issue has to do with “disabled” sensors. I don’t think the shop light is so advanced that it completely redirect the current away or bypass the sensor. I will consider this case closed and work on removing the shop light sensor.
