In the Inovelli box, did you confirm that the white is the constant hot or did you just follow the diagram? (Testing between the white and bare ground and black and bare ground will confirm.) The white being constant hot is the way it’s typically done, but I’ve seen it wired the other way.
If that is correct, remove the red traveler and black hot feed from the Inovelli, making it a 2-way switch temporarily. Reset the 21 and 22 parameters for a non-neutral 2-way. This way you can troubleshoot the switch alone, as load may factor in here. Get it working that way first and then we’ll reincorporate the Auxs.
Yup, I disconnected all my wires at sw1, turned the power on and the only wire that was hot was the white from the romex-2. White is line hot from my fixture, coming from a romex-2, connected to line on sw1. The other wire in the romex-2 is the black connected to load on sw1.
Here are my before pics with the Lutron dimmer…
sw1 works fine to turn the lights on/off/dim. I’ve confirmed w/ or w/o the AUX switches, sw1 works fine. The problem is with the AUX switches.
Interestingly, if I turn on the fixture via sw1 (inovelli, or via hubitat) and then use the AUX switches to dim the fixture they work. I can dim down and up. Once the fixture is off (regardless of where it was turned off) the AUX switches aren’t able to turn the fixture back on. Another interesting data point, if I use sw1 to turn the fixture on, then use sw3 to dim the fixture, then sw2 is only able to dim down, not up.
My next test is to just connect up one AUX switch and see if sw1 and sw2 work in tandem.
Definitely worth testing. It’s hard to point the finger at the aux switch or the dimmer. Try installing only one at the 4-way switch (remove the other legs to sw3) and see if you can get it to work at the 3-way. If one works, try the other switch too to test if both aux switches work in a 3-way. Any other dimmers/aux switches around to test by chance?
No, a short press via the AUX switches doesn’t have any affect. I have to turn on the fixture via the inovelli for any action from the AUX switches to have an affect.
I do have another pair of GE AUX switches I installed with GE master in sept. I’ll try to swap the AUX switches and see if they work. I bought them all from Amazon but maybe they are a different generation.
Not sure I’ll be able to have some quiet time to turn off the power and troubleshoot tonight, tomorrow hopefully.
@harjms, @Bry I spent a couple hours tonight testing a variety of configurations out.
I pulled switch 3 and switch 2 out of the equation. I factory reset the LZW31 and rewired it for a non-neutral setup. Everything worked fine with the factory reset LZW31. I was able to turn the light, off, on, and dim. I thought this was odd as I never set parameter 21 to reflect a non-neutral setup.
Next I wired in switch 2, NOT having changed parameter 21 or 22. The LZW31 worked fine but switch 2 has no affect. I set parameter 22 to 2 using the switch (13 clicks, 1 up). Switch 2 now worked to dim and turn off the light. If I set the dimmer all the way up to 99 via the AUX switch, it no longer works to dim or off. If I go the LZW31 and dim the light or turn it off, the AUX switch works again.
Knowing that something was working as expected I wired back in switch 3. Same result, switch 2 and now 3 worked to dim the light, turn off, turn on. Only issue is if I use switch 2 or switch 3 to go to full brightness they stop working.
At this point I paired the LZW31 to hubitat and confirmed parameter 21 = 1 and 22 = 2.
I’m not sure if its a bug in firmware 1.48 but parameter 21 is not having the desired impact.
I still have the issue if I go to full brightness the AUX switches stop working. Is this a limitation of the wattage? I’m using 6 x 60w bulbs, 360w incandescent total. If my lights goes above 70 the AUX switches become unresponsive. For now I’ve set my max brightness to 65 via parameter 6 to keep them below the threshold.
Any idea whats going on at this point? Do you think lower wattage bulbs (30w) would make a difference? Any idea what’s up with parameter 21?
So my TLDR interpretation is that the only issue now is that if you dim up to full brightness with an Aux they stop working? Sometime the max level has to be tweaked, so try reducing your max to less than the default, which is 99. My thought is to keep the dimmer from going over where the Aux chokes.
I don’t know why the AUX becomes unresponsive at 99. I honestly have all my dimmers set to max of 80 but also set for neutral. I’ll change one of mine and see if the 12723 models do the same at 99.
I have just installed a Red dimmer in a non-neutral set up with one of those same aux switches in a three-way. I am getting the exact same issues. Also can confirm that the dimmer does work if parameters are set to either neutral or non-neutral setting. I do get slightly different behavior from the aux switch depending on which neutral/non-neutral mode it is in.
If I limit max brightness to around 70-80, the aux switch dims/brightens and turns on/off in both directions. But I also have to limit the bottom dim level to its max. Aux still has trouble turning on or brightening up at the very bottom of the range. If I clip the ranges, it will mostly work ok, but 70% is too dim for us to use in the kitchen.
Also get a little bit of buzzing from the 7 led BR30 bulbs plus buzzing from the switch itself. I swapped out a Fibaro Dimmer 2 which made no buzzing, hoping to get a working aux 3-way going with the Inovelli. At the moment I placed a GoControl wireless (battery) remote control 2-button switch over the aux, in Z-wave association with the Innoveli dimmer to allow a 3-way until issues with aux can be resolved.
So I’m very interested in a solution to this issue that allows for a greater dim range.
I’m also running into this with the same behavior in two separate 3-way setups.
Red Dimmer always works, all levels
Aux switch can always turn off the light
Dimming up/down from aux switch works fine
Aux switch can only turn on the light if previous or max level is <99 (not sure the exact cutoff)
Interestingly I have a third 3-way that is working fine, even with max level at 99. The only difference I can think of is that the working setup is using LED bulbs but the non-working setups have incandescent bulbs still, so that’s what I will be checking next. Just strange that with dimmers and addons that were all bought at the same time I’m seeing different behavior.
Just a couple suggestions. One, as you’ve alluded to, is to reduce the max brightness to 80%. Not sure why that works, but it has for some.
The other is to play with parameters 21 and 22. The sneaking suspicion running around in the back of my mind is that despite what the hub is reporting for those parameters, the switch isn’t set properly. One or two users reported that some time ago (can’t remember which hub, HA maybe?).
So the general recommendation which is really just a WAG is to try setting the parameters at the switch or vice versa, or try setting the incorrect settings and then set them properly. Or just try incorrect settings.
Just passing on what has worked for others in the past . . . can’t explain why, though.
I’m adding to this thread because I’m experiencing the same issue.
I have 5 3-way setups, and 3 of them behave like this. 2 of them work just fine.
I’ve done factory resets, verified several times the identical settings.
I will try setting min and max values to see if that makes a difference. However, this is MOST frustrating and making for a really terrible experience.
There’s a work around to set max/min dim to keep the AUX paddles working
Last update from @Eric_Inovelli was on 1/28 saying they were still investigating the issue. I’ve given up hope at this point. GE now offers a no neutral required LED dimmer you might want to check out. Its Enbrighten 52252.
Thanks for the link. I was able to confirm the work-around works for me too. I’m not thrilled, but at the end of the day, my 3-ways have now all past the wife acceptance test, so I don’t mind waiting for an official fix.