You definitely need to do both groups. Give it a try and see how it goes.
@harjms Well good news & bad news… Good news, that worked. Bad news, not for long… I’ll start with Group 4 doesn’t seem to be an option for the switch, only Group 2. Then I began looking at the different settings and making changes (timer, led color, etc.) At some point, hub/zwave was acting slow and weird and the switch just turned off. I was able to exclude it, and include again. Then it would only work with one bulb (fixture has two). Looks like zwave mesh is messed up from the include/exclude going on and turning the power on/off at some point. I did notice some setting are for versions in 1.14 and 1.19 or something. The current firmware version on the switch is 1.11, so going to try to update that in case it was causing an issue. Lucky me, I had just ordered the UZB stick and came in today, so trying to get that going now. I know I had a ghost node previously that I wanted to remove since I thought maybe that was causing issues and will try to get this firmware updated. I’ll mess with that for a while, then just back to the switch/bulb. Hoping I can get it working soon as it’ suppose to!
Does look like the driver from Inovelli’s worked at least to some extent. I wonder why that driver wouldn’t be on Hubitat’s internal. It is confusing that some (bulbs) then to be internal driver, but the switches need to be the external ones. If Hubitat drivers won’t be updated, they probably should be removed, so people know to get the external one.
So Hubitat drivers are for basic uses. They write them in house, but don’t necessarily have all the rich features compared to Inovellis written drivers.
I thought group 4 would be there but I’ve only set it up from a LZW31-SN so dimmer function was there. I’ll have to think about that one or someone else can chime in. Hopefully a rule isn’t need for the press and hold command.
The lzw30 is now working as intended! I haven’t figured out how to upgrade the firmware (1.11 to 1.19 beta) with the UZB stick though. I followed Inovelli instructions, but when I click update, it seems to get stuck on Packet #1 of 2338 written. Switch_Binary_report(25 03) + FF. I tried doing it via hubitat driver, but for the URL, the webpage doesn’t seem to have the link to copy in. I tried the main page “https://support…” but no luck. otz file is there so that is what I downloaded and tried to do via UZB stick. Any idea what may be happening with either? Just want to upgrade so I’m not missing out on any enhancements since 1.11. I’m sure there’s quite a few.
How’d you update it with the usb? Then you add it to you Hubitat network as a secondary controller?
To the usb, I actually excluded it from the hub, and included it to the UZB stick directly. I tried adding the UZB to the hub, but it wouldn’t include for some reason.
Hmm should work. I’ve never done it directly from usb to switch. I’ve only done it as a secondary controller. Try: pulling air gap on switch. start the upgrade from PC controller and then push in the air gap switch. The switch should start its upgrade. Hopefully further than one bit.
Well… I think I may have just bricked it. Not doing the air gap thing, but I was able to get the UZB onto Hubitat, then tried the firmware update that way with the downloaded .otz file (correct one, 1.19 beta for LZW30). Then it just froze, so I aborted. Now when I press “Get” information doesn’t come in and it is being unresponsive in HomeKit, Hubitat and Locally. Doh…
Scratch that, we are back to everything working with Firmware 1.11
Which version of PC Controller are you using? I would recommend 5.39 and using the UZB as a secondary controller joined to the Hubitat network.
Looks like 5.52.301… I’m still very new with PC Controller (& Zniffer). Would there be a reason to go back to 5.39? If so, is it just uninstalling and finding that version to install?
Yes, 5.39 seems to work when later versions fail.
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Thanks, I’ll give this a shot. I’m currently trying to include the UZB to my Hubitat as a second controller. I was able to do it yesterday (once after several tries), then I excluded when I was done messing with it for a while. I’ve been unsuccessful in including it again as a second controller. Not sure what’s going on… Was hoping I didn’t have to exclude the switch from the hub but may have to go that route.
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Sorry took a few days of trial and error. Looks like the zwave.me stick just wouldn’t work, so I returned that and got a zooz stick. Instantly connected and got rid of 2 pest ghost nodes AND updated the firmware on the lwz30! Got what a relief after messing with this a few days now.
I got one question/comment that I’m hoping is an easy fix. On the driver, if I set the timer to let’s say 1800 seconds (30 minutes), the freaking switch loses power and since I locked out the local control, I have to unlock it turn the switch on then lock it again. A bit of a pain, and I don’t believe that is the intent. It should just send the signal to the bulb. Is this something that has been discussed previously? I understand black gen isn’t being sold anymore, so I presume the chance of a fix is out the window?
Are you saying you set the auto-off timer on the switch? The switch turning off would be expected in that scenario.
If you want similar behavior for the bulbs, you’d need to set rules up on your hub for it. Something like - when bulb turns on, set a timer for 30m and then turn off.
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Yeah, I guess I’ll have to do it that way. But if my switch isn’t setup to shut off power to the bulb ever (since I disable the relay), then the timer on it should just send the bulb a signal rather than cutting the power (I would think).
When you say “since I disable the relay” are you referring to disabling local control? All that does is prevent someone from using the switch itself on the wall to turn on or off power to the load, it won’t prevent the switch from turning off if either configured by firmware (auto off timer in this case) or a remote command from the hub. The only way to automatically control the bulbs in this setup would be the hub automation route.
Agreed, the timer will override disabling local control.
You need to enable local control, enable smart bulb mode 2 (always on), then the timer will turn the switch off, therefore controlling the associated bulbs off, BUT WILL KEEP THE LOAD POWERED AT 100%.
Could have sworn I threw this up already in this thread :D.
I do this personally all over my house. It works. Stop using disable local control! 
This is the LZW30, no smart bulb mode available.
But you’re saying with the dimmers (assuming both Black and Red series would behave the same here) that have smart bulb mode, the auto off timer will work in the way javierg722 is expecting?
Correct. It will turn off the switch but not cut the load.
Ok I missed that, fair enough :D.
That’s really good to know though and pretty sweet with the dimmers. I wondered if the associations would work, but if it actually cut power that wouldn’t matter regardless 
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