Max Wattage? - Blue Series 2-1

I have a large shop that I’d like to automate the lights with. It current has 2 circuits. One circuit has 8 of these lights, and another circuit has 4. Each light has using 150 watts, so one circuit has a 600watt load, another has a 1200watt load. This is well above the 300 Watts max wattage in the manual for an LED.

Questions:
Many competitor switches market themselves as able to do 1800watts for resistive loads. Is this light a resistive load? If so, could the 2-1 switch support the load?

Competitor switches:

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No that light would be considered a LED (capacitive), not a resistive load.

Thank you!

You may just need to use the other brands if it supports how many lights you need. Otherwise, you could look at using a zigbee controlled relay that supports the load (looks like 10 Amps need for your one circuit load).

If you use a zigbee relay, then you could bind the switch and relay together to support the load required.

Just an option; however, I prefer a less hassle approach. Your shop must be BRIGHT.

You’d have to use a switch, not a dimmer. The Enbrighten probably wouldn’t support those loads as LED either.

Another option is to use the 2-1 to switch a plain old dumb relay and use the relay contacts to turn the lights on. I might need to do this in my shop once I do an addition and add more lights.

These LEDs aren’t dimmable, so I have the 2-1 switch set to just on/off mode.

Oh, the relay idea is a clever idea though. If I did the relay route and bind the zigbee devices, would I power the 2-1 off the same circuit (essentially just wire the relay with the line and neutral)? Or would it have to not share the load on the circuit?

What’s the size of these relays? Would 2 fit in a 2gang box with the 2-1s or would I have to put them box of the first light in the circuit?

Given the depth of 2-1’s, you’re probably better off putting the relay in the first light box. The Zooz, as an example, is .7 in thick. 150W LED max on this one. You may need a more hefty one based on what you have going.

Why not use a zigbee relay rather than mixing technologies?

You could go either way honestly if using zigbee/zwave. If I were close to maxing out 15a circuit, I may pull a 20a and use the relay to control on/off.

I just threw that out there for a physical size comparison, actually. My preference would be to use a relay that operates via hard wire. He’s got a pretty hefty load so I would be surprised if you could find a smart relay that could handle a number of those at 150 watts each. Probably going to wind up being a dumb relay

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1200W of LED load turning on is going to kick the crap out of the relay contact. LEDs cause a pretty bad current surge. Something like this might work if you can mount it through a box knock-out.

https://www.amazon.ca/Functional-Devices-RIB01BDC-Enclosed-Contact/dp/B01LZRM6AF/ref=sr_1_2?hvadid=604714014884&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001056&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4092816286253303481&hvtargid=kwd-366152189249&hydadcr=27420_14575884&keywords=relays+120v&qid=1687183998&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.320d95fa-54fe-43a9-b26a-8c3843032e68

I controlled some 240v bathroom heaters from a Red switch using something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/HQRP-120-Volt-Contactor-Definite-Purpose/dp/B08VS2TWZZ

Worked great. Those relays can handle pretty much anything.

BTW: A lot of commercial LED fixtures are 120-277v. If so, you can drive them at 240v and cut your amperage in half.