Currently have a three way configuration with a “dumb” switch on one end and a Kasa HS210 WiFi switch on the other. Looking to replace both with Inovelli Blue. They are located at the top and bottom of a stairwell, and control two overhead lights at opposite ends of the stairs. The switches will be configured in smart bulb mode - the lights are Hue and need constant power.
Looking at the wiring diagrams, I believe I may need to use an Aux switch on one side. However a few notes:
The side that appears to be a dead-end three-way is in a 3-gang box that shares neighbors with other circuits, complete with neutrals. The current WiFi switch is neutral connected there.
The opposite switch does not have a neutral bundle, but has a three-wire romex coming into the box and a two-wire romex into the box
I believe that this may require an aux switch. Ideally I’d like to have full VZM31SN’s on both if that’s doable utilizing the “stolen neutral”.
Alternatively, I am fine with a wiring solution that provides power to both switches and constant power to the lights, and utilizing the switches in ‘smart-bulb mode’ to turn control the Hue’s state via Zigbee instead of physically controlling the circuit via the switch.
So, your switch circuit is on a switch loop, and have incorrectly used a neutral from a different circuit to get your Kasa switch working.
You WILL need an Aux switch and not use the neutral that the Kasa switch is currently using. The good news is that you can put the Inovelli Dimmer in either box though. Decide which box you would like it in and I will attempt to give you instructions and a diagram that you can follow to get it all wired up.
Greatly appreciate the assist! Aux would probably work best to replace the “dumb switch” that’s currently in place. Definitely will remove the neutral.
Well, it wouldn’t only “work best”, but as the circuit doesn’t have a neutral it is required, as a dumb 3-way isn’t supported for a non neutral connection.
One other thing to keep in mind is that when hooked up in a non neutral connection is that depending on the size of the load on the switch, you may need a bypass to allow the switch to get enough current.
If there are only a couple of low wattage LED bulbs on the switch, then this is likely needed, but if it is connected to a larger amount of lights, or the lights are using higher wattage incandescent bulbs, then a bypass may not be needed.
I think the “rule of thumb” here is about 25w of load or so… more than that and you’ll likely be ok, but less than that and you will almost certainly need the bypass.
The bypass gets installed in one of the lights between the switchleg and neutral.
