Greetings-
So I have all the device handlers installed, but for whatever reason I just can’t get the switch and bulb to play nice. I ever have no local control (pushing button does nothing), or the bulb flickers and sun to different temps but it I go too low it just flickers.
Not just that but I find if I leave the fan on too long the room has a weird plastic smell.
What am I missing?
It’s not a DC motor is it?
It’s not, it’s AC. It’s only after been in awhile.
Question for ya – if you replace these with normal bulbs, does it work properly (I just want to test to see if it’s a bulb or switch issue)?
Normal bulbs oh man people use those?
Kidding aside, the lower ends don’t flicker like a street light in a bad b movie, but the mid has a slight wave to it.
If I change the bulb itself through ST I can not replicate the bulbs actions in a different fixture.
The smell while fan is on has no change.
Haha – dinosaurs at this point.
Hmmmmmmm… the plot thickens. Let’s try maybe swapping out your canopy module to see if that fixes it. Between the flickering and weird smell, you have me wanting to play it safe as that definitely isn’t normal. Can you shoot @Courtney_Inovelli and I a PM and we’ll get it taken care of for you?
Do you happen to have the make/model of the fan?
I do it’s it Harbor Breeze Armitage. Nothing fancy.
To add to, I took apart the canopy to see user error (most likely right) and the canopy receive makes a really loud buzzing when on
So…
I had 3 switches I bought and figured why not try a rF receiver from one of them to troubleshoot with in mean time. Here’s my findings.
Normal bulb: no problems
LIFX bulb: no problems
Illumin bulb: buzzes and flickers. Moving that bulb to a different fixture doesn’t replicate issue. So am I missing a step in settings?
Smart Bulb Mode turned on? Don’t have a fan switch. Is that setting present in the DH?
Are you dimming the bulb via the paddle on the switch?
I think smart bulb mode is where I’m screwing up. Again fresh to z-wave so I appreciate the help learning.
With the Inovelli bulb in I got the device Id from smart things and directly associated the on/off and dimmer to the bulb.
I’m trying to be able to use the paddle dimmer.
The idea is to be able to set it up so that during day use I can have a bright daylight white bulb, while bedtime I can tone it down to a warm bulb that’s not as bright:
Using direct association is exactly how you should do it. What I don’t know because I don’t have a fan switch is if it has a Smart Bulb Mode setting. I didn’t see in in the DH.
So the question in my mind, probably more for @Eric_Inovelli is for the fan lights, if smart bulbs are used, how do you insure that those bulbs are constantly powered at full power? If for some reason the dimmer isn’t putting out full power, then the smart bulb will be wonky.
So one thing you can check is to make sure the dimmer is putting out full power, 100% (it’s actually 99% but you want it cranked all the way up). Then Disable Local Control so that you don’t inadvertently let the dimmer reduce output to the light.
In this fashion, hopefully, working the paddle will control the bulb via direct association and the bulb will remain fully powered.
Can you share your ST IDE raw description for your Fan/Light (bonus points for all three bulbs too)? I’m wondering if they are both S0 and/or security levels as that’s important with Z-Wave Associations.
Here’s how you do it: https://support.inovelli.com/portal/en/kb/articles/how-to-find-your-device-info-for-troubleshooting-smartthings
Let’s start there first and go from there 
For you, anything. Let me go fire up the computer to make it easier. I did find that some how I associated groups 1 and 4 as opposed to 2 and 4. Fixing this has eliminated the street light flicker (see told you user error is amazing). But it means when I turn on using the on/off button rather then turning on to last setting it steps up to color. I still get bad flicker and end up causing the server to stop responding if I try to set it to 2k color.
Still working on buzzing bulb work around.
Switch: zw:Ls2a type:1100 mfr:031E prod:000E model:0001 ver:1.34 zwv:7.13 lib:03 cc:5E,55,98,9F,22,6C sec:26,70,85,59,8E,86,72,5A,73,75,7A,5B,87,60,32 epc:2
inovelli bulb: zw:Ls type:1101 mfr:031E prod:0005 model:0001 ver:2.28 zwv:4.38 lib:03 cc:5E,98 sec:86,85,59,72,73,33,26,70,27,5A,7A
those are the only z wave devices. the other bulbs were IoT and dumb
Ok perfect, thank you for sharing! This was my hunch, so thank you for confirming.
Here’s what I think is happening, but I may need you to test something for me.
Basically, the switch looks to be paired in S2 mode (zw: Ls2a) whereas your bulb is paired in S0 mode (zw: Ls). Unfortunately, if there are two different security levels, they cannot be associated.
What you used to be able to do up until a couple weeks ago was force the switch to pair in S0 mode (the switch has both S2 and S0 built in, whereas the bulb only has S0) by either not inputting the QR code or by hitting, “scan nearby” when pairing (instead of hitting QR Code).
However, based on this thread I completely forgot about, ST may have changed something:
I meant to send an email to the engineers at ST to see what happened.
Is there a way you can try unpairing and repairing your fan/light using the, “scan nearby” method? If it ever asks for a QR code, just either don’t input anything or back out and see if the switch still pairs?
What I believe is happening is you may have thought your switch and bulb was associated, but it actually wasn’t (due to the security mismatch) and when you physically dim smart bulbs it causes them to flicker as they can’t be dimmed manually (ie: they have to have the full 100% power).
Make sense? Sorry if I didn’t lol.
I will go test this!
ok removed, and readded using scan near by. new description is : zw:L type:1100 mfr:031E prod:000E model:0001 ver:1.36 zwv:7.13 lib:03 cc:5E,55,98,9F,6C,26,70,85,59,8E,86,72,5A,73,75,22,7A,5B,87,60,32 epc:2 and it says security failed. I did notice while at the switch that it hums as well, not sure if that matters.
Ok, great – thanks for confirming.
I think we may have an issue now if it’s just showing L as it means there’s no security and your bulb is Ls. Ughhhh…
Let me reach out to the engineers again at ST to see if somehow we can force the bulb to join without security (L) or the switch to join with S0 (Ls).
In addition, we are currently working on firmware that will allow you to choose how the switch pairs, so if we can’t get it figured out with ST, we will have a new firmware that will allow this coming very soon.
@EricM_Inovelli – just want to confirm with you that I’ve exhausted everything here lol.
Basically you have. The last option is not easy to complete so waiting for an updated firmware that allows you to choose the inclusion level may be the best route.
The only other option is to make the switch join with no security. That is the easy part because you can just cancel out of the S2 stuff. Then you need to get the bulb to join with no security. If you take the bulb far away from the hub to do the inclusion there is a chance that the security key transfer will fail and the bulb will join non-secure.
Sadly the bulb is in the furthest light from the hub already so I will wait for the firmware.
So with the canopy receiver should I try using the original one in the other fixture I was going to use it with, or are we still looking at RMA