NZW31-SN (3 Way Config) -> LZW31-SN (3 Way Config)

I have a NZW31 with a dumb switch wired exactly like this

I’m swapping the NZW31 for a LZW31-SN, I assumed I could do a direct swap between these two switches - I was wrong.

I did the swap and dumb switch didn’t turn the lights on or off, the LZW31-SN worked.
I manually set the parameter 21 and 22, and when I tested my dumb 3way switch I killed the LZW31-SN.
You could hear a POP.

I thought I set the configuration wrong, so installed another new LZW31-SN, updated the firmware this time, set the parameters in hubitat, confirmed the settings took. Did a bunch of reading, bunch of posting in this thread. Turned the dumb switch on and POP - killed another switch.

Did more reading and my understanding is if I want to keep my current wire configuration I have to remove my ‘dumb’ switch and replace it with a ‘aux’ switch. Is that correct?


Super annoyed at myself that I killed switches I can’t even replace


Yea you need to configure the switch for 3-way with dumb/toggle switch. I think it’s parameter 21/22 that should be configured after installing. I recommend doing it from a hub vs. configure button/paddle combination.

Like this?

Before you even worry about parameters you need to wire the switch properly. If you look at the wiring diagram for a dumb switch with a LZW31-SN, you will see that it is wired differently from the diagram that you posted.


Your diagram is for “Line/Load in separate Boxes (Neutral Wire Setup)”

If I have the Line and Load in separate boxes I would need to wire it like this, but I dont.

If you scroll down the wiring guide my layout is also shown.

When I first deployed my NZW31’s they worked out of the box for a neutral wire setup.

I’m just trying to swap out my NZW31’s for a new LZW31 and I’m finding it’s not working.

Is that Hubitat? If so, make sure you have the driver loaded. Then the parameter is listed with drop down menu.

You mean Switch Type drop down?

This is the hubitat driver

Correct; however I highly recommend Inovellis driver.

I have 30+ of the Gen1 switches never a problem before, I manually program one of these Red Series units in attempt to do the Parameter 21/22 (before I made this thread) and I’m pretty sure I smoked the switch.

I apologize for all the questions, hope you understand.

I already have the driver you posted up, and have been using it on my other Red Series unit.

What exactly am I looking for on this, the two drivers have different wording which is confusing me.

Currently looks like parameter 21 is 1, and 22 is 0


Am I suppose to be changing this setting?

edit -

Looks lIke i need 3-way Toggle option

I think that’s what @Bry was trying to confirm with wiring. Some folks have upgraded the gen 1 switches to the LZW31 without rewriting, but I think there is some differences between the two; however, I thought this was mainly with aux switches. So to confirm, this is a line/load same box correct?

Also parameter 21 = 1 (neutral)
Parameter 22 = 1 (3 way toggle)

Make sure you save preferences after setting the parameters. The numbers next to the drop down boxes equal parameter number.


Line & Load are in the same box as LZW31-SN

Second switch is sending the neutral down the travel wire to the LZW31-SN

Looks like I have the parameters saved


Sorry about the wrong graphic. I was trying to respond on my phone. I fixed my post to reflect line/load same box.

It’s obvious the two wiring schemes are different. The one you posted only uses 2 of the 3 conductors on the 3-wire, whereas the LZW31-SN with a dumb switch uses all three.


When reading the wiring guide to me it seems like there’s more than way to do this.

It looks like my existing wiring setup is compatible with the switch when configured right.

What’s the difference between Dumb switch and Aux Switch


With a dumb switch, you’re not wiring neutral to the 3 way toggle. You’re sending two travelers (usually red/white) and the load is connected to the COM terminal.

Aux switches uses neutral and traveler only and the load bypasses the aux switch.

OK, my non-inovelli switch is using a traveler and neutral .

So I have a ‘aux’ switch


I have a dumb switch setup

Is it a toggle or push button style of switch? If push button Or momentary then you’ll need to configure parameter 22 = 2 (3 way momentary).

Edit: however in your first post, if it’s wired that way then that is a 3 way toggle and would not be wired with neutral.

It’s a ON/OFF Switch.

All I did was direct swap my NZW31 to a LZW31-SN.

OK, updated the first post with all the information

Any input would from you two would be great.

@Eric_Inovelli and @EricM_Inovelli

No, that’s not correct. Presuming that as in the drawing you posted you have a 3-wire (which means three conductors exclusive of a bare ground) running between the two switches. If you have a line and load in the same box configuration AND you have a 3-wire running between the two switch boxes (both as in the drawing you posted), you can use either a dumb switch or an Aux switch.

If you use a dumb switch, the dumb switch will only be able to turn the Inovelli on and off. You will not have any dimming capability from the dumb switch, just the Inovelli. If you use and Aux switch, you can also dim from both locations.

The wiring configurations for either of those is different than the graphic of your current configuration. I’ll post them below. It’s a matter of first identifying the line conductors and the load conductors in the Inovelli box so you can wire them properly. The line and load are NOT interchangeable.

Use a meter to test the line and load conductors so that you are certain about which is which. DO NOT wing it. If you are unfamiliar with electrical wiring, it is best to consult with an electrician. Switches do not smoke based on bad parameter settings, they smoke due to incorrect and likely unsafe wiring.



I appreciate the the post. At this point I’ve answered most of my own questions.

Sounds like you are unfamiliar with the Gen1 switches as I am unfamiliar with the new ones.

I have a meter and was involved with rewiring my entire house when I deployed Gen1 switches everywhere almost 4 years go. So I’m not hoping and poking.

My Gen1 switch in a 3way configuration activates the smart switch by putting a neutral down the traveler wire. (dumb switch sends neutral to smart switch via traveler to turn the light on, or not to turn off).

This is why I showed my EXACT wiring setup, see below.

I wrongly assumed I could do a direct swap between my NZW31-SN (in a 3way configuration) and my LZW31-SN.

What confused me is the term AUX and DUMB - I understand now.

I have currently have DUMB switch configuration.

If I want to continue only using the existing 2 wires (the neutral and traveler wire) then I need to change to a AUX SWITCH which will then also allow me to dim the lights if I want. ( I couldn’t dim with the second switch before )

Like this:

Is that a correct statement?

In a different room where the wiring is different I was able to setup a LZW31-SN in the following configuration.

The dumb switch instantly activates the light unlike the Gen1 which had a decent delay.