Project Europa • Zigbee + Thread/Matter Smart Dimmer • Blue & White Series

Detailed answer, I appreciate it.

I fully understand now. I’ll go straight to the point:

  • I was under the impression that there were two buttons for the extra config buttons
  • Looking at the design, I would say it’s NOT an issue that the button(s) are on a fulcrum, and you press either A or B once at a time. The little ridge in the middle gives you enough of a clue that there are two buttons and not one.
  • The amount of button possibilities are so many with single press, double press and long press on the up, down, A and B buttons that an “AB” button press isn’t needed.

I don’t think any sort of light leak will be an issue. Looking at your mock-up in the futuristic home is exactly how I’d imagine it’d look and there’s negligable light leak there, if any.

To me, the design looks excellent.

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There is no update this week and we will provide an update next week.

The team is still tracking for the November 30th PCB hardware design and all other milestones.

I think I’d also expected the two config/scene buttons to be individual and not combined on a fulcrum, but it does still work visually with the groove to indicate that it’s two buttons. I can’t imagine wanting or needing to press both together as opposed to in quick succession, and it’d be an obvious limitation when you’re creating scenes.

I like the Knight Rider mock ups, haha. If there’s a worry about light bleed vs. functionality, there’s maybe a software solution? Use the full width of the LED bar for indicating percentage while dimming, but exclude the end LEDs for status and notifications to get the Knight Rider effect.

I’m about the general assembly of this. I think it’s implied from some of your images, but is it a four part construction that goes electrical base > outer frame > switching unit > switch paddles?

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mmWave Module Development Update (For a Future Product)

NOTE (EH): THIS IS JUST THE DESIGN FOR A FUTURE PRODUCT (MMWAVE) - WE ASKED THE ENGINEER TO DESIGN THE CURRENT PRODUCT (NON-MMWAVE) TO BE COMPATIBLE WITH A FUTURE MMWAVE PRODUCT (SO, WE WOULDN’T HAVE TO PAY FOR ADDITIONAL TOOLING).

THE NOTES BELOW ARE IN REFERENCE TO HOW THEY HAVE SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETED THE DESIGN TO INCLUDE AN MMWAVE MODULE FOR FUTURE PRODUCTION.

  • mmWave module development is complete.
  • The mmWave module antenna is smaller than the US switch, with only a small visible window.
  • Detection performance of the new mmWave module is identical to that of the US switch.
  • The cost of the new mmWave module is similar to the mmWave module of the US switch.
  • Community feedback indicates support for keeping the design with the fulcrum.
  • Community feedback indicates no concern regarding light leak, pending sample review.

Highlights

  • The mmWave module development is complete and its detection performance should be identical to the US switch, but further testing is required in the future.
  • The antenna design is compact, featuring a smaller size than the US switch with only a small visible window.

Risks/Blockers

  • Potential cost differences between the new mmWave module and the US Dimmer vs US mmWave are an open question.
  • Light leak analysis is pending review of physical samples.

Decisions

  • Proceed with the 3D samples as is (non-mmWave), based on community feedback regarding the fulcrum design and light leak.

Action Items

  • Discuss the current mmWave module design with the manufacturer for potential improvements, but continue as-is for the non-mmWave version.

Disclaimer: This update was generated automatically using AI to summarize recent internal project discussions. Personal names have been omitted. It may omit details or misinterpret context; please reply if clarification is needed.

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Yeah, I think this will have to be something we analyze when we see it, but I think the solution would be to tune down the brightness of the LED if it bothers someone. And yes, at the same time, we can just have the first (far left) and last (far right) LED’s either disabled or set a specific dim intensity on those to “taper” off the bleed if it’s a concern.


Can you explain further? Sorry, I’m not following – maybe I just had too much turkey from Thanksgiving yesterday haha.

If you’re talking about how the switch is assembled, then it would go something like this:

  • Outer shell (back) - plastic > Inner PCB(s) (likely two) sit inside the outer shell > Metal Plate screws into the plastic shell and locks everything into place > Paddles + LED Bar snap into the metal plate (three pieces – upper paddle on the fulcrum, LED Bar, and lower main paddle)

EDIT: Maybe this helps show it better?


  • Far left is the plastic housing
  • Second to left is a metal casing (I think – need to verify – but I can see the MOSFET’s attached, so I assume this is metal for the heat-dissipation)
  • Second to right is metal casing as well
  • Far right is plastic paddles and LED Bar

Maybe a bit before your time but a Cylon!!!

OK, I think there’s a detail being missed here, for how it is that the frame is secured in place.

I think this might actually be in your design, since there is a gap between screw plate and what I’m going to call the button module. But that needs to be removable or shrunk down further with a retaining bracket so that the System 55 frame can have its internal lip go behind and be fixed in place.

Here’s how Aqara does it:

A standard switch from Zennio, where the switch pokes through the middle

And here’s a chap on YouTube showing things are fixed:

PS. thanks for taking the time out of your holidays. I hope this isn’t too big a headache that I’m pointing out!

No worries at all – happy to help and get these things clarified!

Is this what you’re looking for?

The Red part is the recolored piece behind the paddles (what the paddles and LED Bar snaps into). The blue part is the metal piece.

They didn’t draw any screws in the AutoCad file, so I can’t confirm, but I will ask the engineer for clarity. I think this was the preliminary drawing and maybe they just forgot to add screws :confused:

But, it appears they are handling it similar to how Aqara does it.

But, just so I’m understanding, the part that’s important is the blue part (as shown in our diagram), correct? We need to ensure we have those slots lined up so the faceplate can go over it and then the red part on top of the faceplate to, “lock it in”?

What I think the difference is, is that the video shows a hollow middle section on the metal part (and I think Aqara does too) whereas ours has a solid plate with a small hole in it (which I’m assuming is where the PCB 1 plugs into PCB 2.

I’m happy to pass along some clarifying questions to the engineer (who uses the same style switches in his home) if you’d like?

Yeah, that looks similar to Aqara, and that diag covers everything I was wondering, thanks :slight_smile:

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Will there be a rough version too or only glossy? Because I mainly have Gira rough white plastic sockets so I was wondering.

At this time, I can commit to glossy, but I’m pushing for matte (is that what you mean by rough?)

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Yes matte was the word I was missing. Sorry I’m not a native English speaker. But I am really excited for these as I just tested the Aqara H2 and found out that they are actually horrible. So now I found this and these look really good. I think they are worth the wait.

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It’s ok! I’ll see what I can do to get some costs on matte :slight_smile:

Hey all, I’ve been quietly lurking for some time now and glad to see a product like this making positive steps forward. I’ve been holding off fully fitting my house with smart switches ever since seeing Inovelli were working on an EU project.

Just following the discussion of the size of our back boxes in the UK, here was my personal situation on a timber frame new build which is a popular house type in the UK, especially Scotland and other Northern EU countries.

I couldn’t fit the Aqara H1M due to how many wires I had in the box even though it’s 36mm deep, I had to 3D print a spacer just to make it flush against the wall as seen in the photos.

If the depth of the switch has to be what it is, may I suggest that optional spacers could be purchased to allow people with fitment issues to have a flush finish? At least this way they would all be the same material/colour. (apologies if this was already suggested)

I also like the idea of dark grey/black matt finishes but realise that initially you may have to limit to white just to get an idea of the demand.

Thank you for reading!

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Weekly Product Development Update

Highlights

  • A new STEP file has been provided.
  • Exploration into offering a matte finish option for switches (both EU and American versions) is underway.
  • A proposal was made to implement multi-language support for Mode Select on European switches, with potential to unify US and EU firmware.

Risks/Blockers

  • Tooling for glossy and matte finishes can only support one process per tooling, or requires two cavities with potential for higher unit cost if order ratios are uneven.
  • Cost for finishes is variable based on total quantity.
  • Uncertainty regarding the full capability of the “Localization Configuration Cluster” to support multi-language conversions.

Timeline

  • No specific timeline updates this week.

Decisions

  • The Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ) for finishes has been set at 3,000 units.

Action Items

  • Review the newly provided STEP file.
  • Determine the desired order ratio for glossy versus matte finishes.
  • Research the “Localization Configuration Cluster” to assess its functionality for enabling multi-language conversions.
  • Investigate the feasibility and cost implications of implementing multi-language firmware via Mode Select for European and US devices.

Yes, this would be great, or if it’s deemed to big a cost burden, a 3D printer model so that people can easily adapt to their own situation?

In my experience spacers are usually sold by the same company that makes the frame. I have schneider exxact switches an when I needed a spacer to fit a Plejd dimmer behind it, the only one that sits flush with the wall and frame was the one from the same maker.

Hardware Development Update

Highlights

  • Hardware design is actively in progress.
  • Initial 3D samples have been tested.
  • We are currently improving the assembly method for the LED Bar.
  • The switch depth has been successfully reduced by 3MM.
  • A new STEP file has been shared, reflecting recent design iterations.
  • Cooperation with mmWave manufacturers is ongoing to ensure compatibility.

Risks/Blockers

  • Ensuring full compatibility with the mmWave version requires additional structural and hardware considerations.
  • The current STEP file represents an ongoing design iteration and is not yet the final version.

Timeline

  • Ongoing: Continued hardware design and iteration.
  • Ongoing: Improvements to LED Bar assembly method.
  • Ongoing: Structural and hardware considerations for mmWave compatibility.

Decisions

  • The switch depth has been reduced by 3MM to improve compatibility and form factor.

Action Items

  • Continue improving the assembly method of the LED Bar.
  • Further structural and hardware considerations for mmWave version compatibility.
  • Continue cooperation with mmWave manufacturers.
  • Iterate on the design, leading to a final STEP file.
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Is there any progress on the zigbee side? In my house I have mainly Zigbee devices at home and would like to add a few new ones to try out.

Product Development Update

Highlights

  • All designs, including structural, PCB hardware, and mmWave module designs, are complete (NOTE: As a reminder, this switch will not have mmWave, the team has just designed the switch to account for this in future iterations).

Risks/Blockers

  • None identified.

Timeline

  • Samples are expected to be completed in three weeks.

Decisions

  • None explicitly stated.

Action Items

  • Proceed with manufacturing samples for initial testing.
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