Project Europa • Zigbee + Thread/Matter Smart Dimmer • Blue & White Series

This is the official thread for tracking the project. Please see the prior thread for where the inspiration came from: Project Europa | 240V Smart Switch(es) For Europe (EU) - Zigbee, Thread/Matter

Project Team


Introduction

As per our tradition of working with you amazing people, here’s what this thread allows us to do as a community.

  1. Allows us to keep everyone updated on the project status (either good or bad)
  2. Allows you to participate and help us develop amazing products together
  3. Enjoy each other’s company and have fun talking home automation

How this initial post will be laid out is in five sections:

  1. Project Overview
  2. Initial Hardware & Software Requirements (edited to remain up-to-date)
  3. Timeline (edited to remain up-to-date)
  4. Pinned Ideas & Shout-outs (edited to remain up-to-date)
  5. Weekly Recap

Housekeeping

  • Dates & Functions Are Subject to Change: Please keep in mind that all timelines and features are fluid. Decisions are made based on feasibility, opportunity cost, and the overall project roadmap. I’ll be as transparent as possible when adjustments are made — but just a heads up, some changes may not always be the most exciting.
  • All Ideas Are Welcome: There’s no such thing as a bad idea (well… mostly). If you have a suggestion, big or small, share it!
  • Version 1 vs. Version 2: Some great ideas might not make it into the first release. Once Version 1 is locked from a functionality standpoint, we’ll start keeping track of Version 2 ideas. After launch, those will move to a “Wishlist” section for future consideration.

Project Overview

The purpose of this project is to bring the Inovelli community built magic across the world and into the European Union (and potentially the Australian market).

For at least 6+ years many passionate smart home owners from across the ocean have reached out to us and requested that we create a 240V version of our products over to their market. In fact, we get about 1-2 requests per week either via tickets or social media and we believe now is the time to make this happen.

However, this isn’t going to be an easy task as there are a lot of obstacles to overcome (new market with rules/regulations we’re unsure of, capital expenditures we don’t have, design aesthetics we’re unsure of, etc). But if there’s one thing I’ve learned, the power of a community can bring these ideas to life and it’s what I’m banking on to bring this project success.

I’m excited to see what the next 6+ months bring and I will fight my hardest right beside you along the way!

Project Name - Project Europa

I chose the name Europa because it’s said that Europe was named after the Greek princess, Europa. I’m not sure if this is true or not, but it sounded cool. In addition, ever since I was a kid, I’ve had this fascination with Jupiter (the planet) and Europa is one of its moons.

How does this all relate to this project? Simple. We’re developing a switch (and hopefully entire line) for our friends in Europe and to be able to create something for what seems like a far away (like Jupiter is to Earth) is a welcomed challenge.

Hope that’s not too corny :slight_smile:


Smart Dimmer - Hardware Requirements

The hardware for this product can be found below.

Hardware

Hardware - Switch (Look / Feel)

  • System 55 fascia – System 55 bezel (outer square) from GIRA, Legrand, Schneider to be compatible (Appendix A)
  • Responsive Paddle - rests in a neutral state (tap up = on, hold up = dim up // tap down = off, hold down = dim down
    • Paddle should also be able to be popped off
    • The switch should work as a virtual 2 or 3 button switch
  • Configuration / Favorites Buttons - button should be used for configuration of the switch as well as scene control.
    • Should be able to be held (for configuration)
    • Should be able to be tapped (for scene control)
  • RGB LED Bar – Configurable. Can show on / off status, % of how much the switch is dimmed
    • LEDs should be RGB (artificial white included)
    • LEDs should also be able to be dimmed
    • Network functions (inclusion mode, signal strength) also to be displayed
  • Paddle & Faceplate Color - color should match a specific white color (open to discussion from the community on what brand to match – default would be to match our North American Version) and have the ability to pop off so that different colors can be used (colors TBD)
  • Slim Design - Depth of back of the switch should be as slim as possible so that it can fit into metal boxes.
  • Mainland & System 55 Back – Have the back of the switch able to fit in both mainland and System 55 Style countries. Core PCB should be reusable for other countries – i.e. customer can order new plastics to make the switch work for 86mm or other UK / EU standards and not have to reengineer any firmware or PCBA.

Hardware - Features & Capabilities

  • Dimming and Virtual On/Off – switch should be able to be both an on/off and dimmer
    • On/Off – Fake on / off by instantly ramping up/down. No relay inside.
    • Dimming – Use MOSFET but also allow for both forward and reverse phase dimming
  • Zigbee 3.0 and Thread / Matter 1.4+ - use the MG26
  • Virtual 3-Way / 4-Way Ready – firmware should permit bindings to other switches or dimmers from the same brand. Thus allowing for virtual multi-way support.
    • NOTE: This does not have to support working with a, “dumb” switch – we will create an Aux switch
  • Power Monitoring - switch should measure the power consumption
  • Zigbee / Thread Distance Estimator - should be able to estimate the signal strength of the Zigbee and Thread signal and notify via the LED bar (see Appendix C)
  • Instant On - when tapped 1x (and scenes aren’t used), switch should turn the load on instantly (no delay)
    • Configurable delay in 100ms increments (see tech doc)
  • CFL & LED Compatibility – to be tested as compatible with large range of popular EU Bulbs, minimum buzz and flickering
  • 500W Incandescent / 300W LED/CFL
  • 240V Compatibility – have the switch be compatible with EU 240V
  • Overload protection – switch should have overload protection in case of a power surge

Smart Dimmer - Software Requirements

Firmware features and functionality should match our current product line (2-1 switch), where applicable (latest version of firmware)

  • Zigbee / Thread Scene Control – Multi-taps to activate various scenes
  • RGBW Bar Config - bars should be able to change colors and dimmed to the customer’s favorite level
  • Auto Timer - switch should have a timer that shuts the switch off after a certain amount of time
  • Easy Config - switch endpoints should be able to be configured via the associated rockers.
    • There should be infinite customization via parameters in the firmware, but also set customizations for HUB’s that do not allow parameter changes
  • Internal Relay Disable - internal relay should be able to be disabled locally and via Zigbee or Thread
  • OTA Ready - ability to update firmware via OTA
  • Zigbee / Matter Bindings
  • Smart Bulb Mode – ability to control smart bulbs
  • Configure paddles – 1, 2, 3. 2 and 3, when enabled, will send scene command to gateway

Timeline

Pre-Initial Timeline Milestones:

Timeline (Estimated)

The initial timeline will be shown below once released and will be updated if there’s a change.

Phase 1 - PRD
Details: During the PRD Phase, we kick off the project with the manufacturer and agree on features, firmware capabilities, pricing, and make our initial payment.
Est Completion Date: Sep 30, 2025
Status: Finished

Phase 2 - Hardware Development
Details: During the Hardware Development Phase, the engineering team will provide an AutoCAD model for approval, while also working on the PCB development in preparation for beta samples.
Est Completion Date: Nov 30, 2025
Status: In Progress

Phase 3 - Firmware Development
Details: During the Firmware Development Phase, the hardware and software engineering teams collaborate closely to ensure the firmware aligns perfectly with the hardware requirements. This phase includes developing and testing the initial version of the firmware.
Est Completion Date: Jan 30, 2026
Status: Pending

Phase 4 - Tooling
Details: During the Tooling phase, the finalized AutoCAD file is transformed into precision metal molds, enabling efficient mass production of the product.
Est Completion Date: Jan 30, 2026
Status: Pending

Phase 5 - Beta Testing
Details: During the Beta Testing phase, we receive beta units loaded with the initial firmware. A dedicated group of community members helps test the units, logging bugs, suggesting enhancements, and bringing community ideas to life. Typically, we go through 2–3 rounds of firmware updates before moving on to the Certification phase.
Est Completion Date: Apr 20, 2026
Status: Pending

Phase 6 - Certifications
Details: During the Certification phase, the product is submitted to testing organizations such as ETL, FCC/IC, and the {{cert_authority}} to ensure it meets all necessary standards.
Est Completion Date: Apr 20, 2026
Status: Pending

Phase 7 - Production
Details: During the Production phase, all certifications are finalized, and the product moves into the manufacturing process to ensure everything is ready for large-scale production. This is the last step before the product is shipped.
Est Completion Date: May 25, 2026
Status: Pending

Phase 8 - Shipping to Customers
Details: The final phase is when we ship it to you! This is where the pallets are unloaded from the semi-truck, and our shipping teams begin fulfilling orders. Depending on the size of the pre-orders, this process usually takes about a week to complete. You will receive a separate email once your order ships.
Est Completion Date: Jun 01, 2026
Status: Pending


Pinned Ideas & Shout-Outs


Monthly Recap

Latest update: Project Europa • Zigbee + Thread/Matter Smart Dimmer • Blue & White Series - #6 by Aether_Inovelli

3 Likes

Phase 2 started — Hardware Development

We are excited to announce that Project Europa has officially entered Phase 2: Hardware Development. Following the successful completion of the Product Requirements Document (PRD) phase, our focus now shifts to bringing this to life through circuit design and prototyping. This marks a significant step forward in the project’s journey.

What’s next:

  • Initiate circuit design and component selection for Project Europa.
  • Develop initial hardware prototypes for rigorous testing.
  • Collaborate closely with our manufacturing partners to refine designs.
  • Transition from conceptualization to tangible hardware development.

Timeline expectations:

  • Phase 1 (PRD) has been successfully completed, including PRD submission, technical reviews, manufacturer approval, and project baseline establishment.
  • Phase 2 (Hardware Development) is now underway, with an anticipated completion by late November 2025.

What we’re watching:

  • Navigating global supply chain dynamics for critical components.
  • Ensuring robust performance and reliability across all hardware iterations.
  • Balancing innovative features with manufacturing feasibility and cost-effectiveness.

Why this phase matters:

  • Moving from conceptual design to the physical realization of Project Europa.

Disclaimer: This update was generated automatically using AI to draft community-facing context based on internal project data. It may omit details or misinterpret context; please reply if clarification is needed.

1 Like

Hey all,

I wanted to start the official thread for the EU project. It took me a bit to post this as I wanted to have it post from our system we’re building internally and I’m still working out some of the kinks (hence why you see some of the Hardware/Firmware data missing).

Anyway, we’ll use this thread moving forward to give updates on the project as the last thread was more for brainstorming.

I have the official timeline posted and you’ll notice some AI bots commenting every now and then. These are generated responses from internal MS Teams conversations and our Project Management system that we’ve been working on.

Hopefully the communication will be much better now that we have some automations in place and thank you for being the “test group” for this!

I’ll be sure to share the AutoCAD pics as they become available and get feedback on them before we finish the phase.

7 Likes

Excellent to see you moving to the next stage. Looking forward to April/June!

1 Like

I love the way this company communicates.

Thank you and looking forward to test and buy some of these units.

2 Likes

Hey all! Some AutoCAD pictures for you. Curious on your thoughts.


What questions do you have and/or anything you’d like to see improved? I’m going to lean heavy on you guys since you know EU trends better than me. I can tell you what “looks” cool to me, but that may not translate.


I personally think this looks awesome. Very modern, yet functional.

I went back and forth on whether or not the button indent should make it look like two separate buttons on the top, but I think I’m landing on keeping it as is as it definitely looks more modern and keeps the overall paddle clean as there are no lines everywhere else.

I’m not entirely sure what this ridge is for, but my guess is to make it easier to pop off the paddle to change colors:

Lastly, I can’t really tell what this gap is as I originally thought it may be the metal plating, but it’s really hard to tell, even from the side view. Maybe it’s the faceplate, I’m not sure.

Thanks! I sincerely appreciate it :slight_smile:

What looks cool?

I can’t speak for Europe, but in the UK, the current trend over the past decade has been towards thin, flat brushed metal plates.

However more recently matt black has really come in design wise, you see it in bathroom and kitchen fixtures too.

I can’t include the images because the forum blocks more than 2 embeds.

Effectively you see this in the Lightwave RF product line:

If their product was updated to Matter over Thread, gave more control over the LED colour, and shipped in all matt black I’d be seriously considering buying that, with my only reservations being the absence of a rocker switch, and the light bar.

The snow white ones are also really nice, and trendy, if a little more ‘basic’ looking.

I personally feel the brushed metal looks dated and common, it’s pretty much the standard for all new builds.


Final thought is about back box depth, I think the UK we’re usually 16mm deep, with more modern ones perhaps being 25mm, it’s very rare to see 35/38mm deep back boxes which makes home automation of lights really tough.

We also almost never have neutrals in the back box, so a solution is to put something like a shelly in the ceiling by the light itself where there is a neutral and use the light switch as a somewhat dumb controller.

This gets around the power and fixture problems of trying to use a bypass device to remove the neutral requirement.

Wow, 16mm? That is going to be a challenge :exploding_head:

I bought some of the Aqara H1M’s a while ago when we were first looking at this project and they appear to be about 31.75mm, so that’s interesting.

This may be a dumb question, so I apologize, but in your gang-boxes, how much additional depth do you usually have available? In other words, in the US, we often have a ton of wires coming in and so while the depth of the gang-box may be 63.5 mm, 1/4 to 1/3 of that is usually taken up by additional wires.

I’m assuming the same is true in the EU (or in your case UK), but I thought I’d ask. If that’s the case, then we’d have to shoot for like 21-22mm (I’m 99.9% sure we won’t be able to hit the 16mm depth – and I’m concerned about even the 25mm depth).

Yes, we’re seeing this too in the US. I think this requires additional tooling to get the matte effect (as opposed to the standard glossy), but it’s something I can look into.

Very interesting! The good news is our switch will not require a neutral wire, but definitely something to think of when it comes to testing.

Agreed, and unrealistic I think.

Obviously it depends on how deep the box is, but very little in a 16mm box, which is often a pain for getting it closed up.

These 16mm boxes are really only seen in places where power is chased into the wall.

Chased metal back boxes

This only applies to brick walls covered with plaster (US: mud), it’s common for older buildings, external walls, and walls between flats (apartments).

New walls: The power cables are run up the wall directly on the surface with a fixing, and capped, or sometimes in conduit (pipe).

Existing walls: Conduit is embedded into the wall usually by using an angle grinder and hammer drill with a chisel bit to create space for conduit. There are special tools which do this.

It’s an extremely dusty and messy process that then requires plaster to backfill over the cable, and redecorating.

Due to the work involved this is where 16mm metal back boxes are more common, particularly for light switches.

They are a pain in my opinion.

Example:

Pipe is not normally yellow, this looks like it might be a former British colony looking at the sockets but it’s similar enough to illustrate the point:

Dry lining box

Modern developments, commercial, or internal partitions will usually be built with timber or metal studding (similar to what I see of US homes) with plasterboard (US: Drywall), sometimes in more than 1 layer, or backed (pattressed) with plywood.

In this situation the wire is run loose or clipped inside the wall inside zones, and then the dry lining box is installed in a hole in the plasterboard.

The yellow tabs clip into place and pull against the inside of the wall, while the white trim holes the outside. Screws are put through the switch/socket that pull the yellow tabs tight, effectively sandwiching it into the wall, unlike US style wall boxes which usually appear to be screwed to the stud.

Because of the design these are usually deeper, and can often be replaced quickyl and easily for a deeper one.

Example:

Example of the back of a surface mounting box for reference:

Wow, this is excellent info, thank you!

I got these specs from the engineer.

So, looks like its depth is less than the Aqara, but still above the 25mm.

I think the reasoning for the additional depth is because I told him to account for a possible mmWave PCB for future use (so we wouldn’t have to create an entirely new switch, but rather re-use some of the tooling of the base switch).

Makes sense, I guess one thing to consider:

Are those screw terminals recessed, and how much buy, and could they be side entry as that would increase the chance of this fitting in a 32mm box, example from MK (albeit for a double socket):