I just set this Red Dimmer switch up in a new location (was working fine before) and noticed that sometimes when I turned the light off it would shut off completely, but other times it would stay lit, but rather dim. This depended on which way the dumb 3-way switch was flipped.
In troubleshooting, I’ve done the following:
Double checked the wiring.
Swapped out the dumb 3-way switch with another.
Swapped load and traveler wires.
Factory reset the switch.
I’ve done a factory reset (via exclude and then re-add via smart start), re-interviewed, and made the following measurements:
ON/OFF SINGLE POLE FULL SINE WAVE:
Switch is turned OFF:
Line: 127 V
Load: 16 V Traveler: 67 V ← this seems strange
Switch is turned ON:
Line: 127 V
Load: 127 V Traveler: 68 V ← this seems strange
ON/OFF MULTI-WAY w/ DUMB SWITCH:
Switch is turned OFF:
Line: 126 V
Load: 3.4 V
Traveler: 112 V
Switch is turned ON:
Line: 126 V
Load: 121 V Traveler: 67 V ← this seems strange
Why is the traveler at 67 V with the switch turned ON? I believe this should be ~0 V so that when I switch the dumb 3-way switch, it flips the light over to the traveler so the light is at ~0 V. But the light is at ~70 V because the traveler is, so the light glows. If the dumb 3-way is flipped the other way, the light will go off completely. My understanding is that the light is now connected to the load on the smart switch which is at ~0 V, so it turns off.
I moved this switch from a box where it was set up as a multi-way with an aux controlling two recessed LEDs and had no issues.
I’m using Home Assistant with:
ZWave JS UI 11.11.0
ZWave JS 15.20.1
If you look at a schematic on paper, you would naturally assume, as you stated, that there will be no voltage on a traveler when the other traveler is energized. However, in reality, It is not uncommon for traveler conductors to appear to have voltage on them, particularly if the measurement is not done with a low-impedance multimeter. The reported voltage is sometimes referred to as phantom or ghost voltage. It is detected by a non-low-impedance meter due to capacitive coupling and as a result of an adjacent conductor being energized.
Do you have a bypass installed. According to Inovelli’s web site (as least my read), you need a bypass if you are using a dumb switch in a multiway and an LED bulb (you didn’t mention). Here’s the entire text from the Q&A section:
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Yes, this switch can be used in multi-way setups. It works with our Aux Switch, another Inovelli smart switch, and an existing, “Dumb” switch (not available for non-neutral setups).
However, please note that if you prefer dimming at both ends, an Aux or another smart switch is required. A, “Dumb” switch will not allow dimming (on/off only). For true dimming with another smart switch, your hub needs to support, “Z-Wave Associations”.
Lastly, if you are using a, “Dumb” switch, you will need to purchase a bypass if you are only controlling a low wattage LED bulb.
Well today I learned. I thought a bypass was only needed if you didn’t have a neutral, which isn’t the case for me. I just finished installed a bunch of mmWave and AUX switches, so I am fresh out for now so I can’t test this to confirm. But in the mean time, I’ve disconnected the dumb switch and wired it up without it so I can have dimming.
Can you or @Bry explain why I would need a bypass in a 3-way even if I have a neutral?
My understanding is that dimmers tend to leak voltage, and that sometimes that is enough to keep your bulbs dimly lit, even with a neutral. It doesn’t happen very often, but occasionally folks here have solved that issue by adding a bypass.