OK. I moved the “wigging out” dimmer to a single-gang box where it was by itself.
So far, it’s working like a charm–seems to be working perfectly.
When I removed it, the wires didn’t seem loose. So, I have to think there’s something about it being near 2 other Z-Wave Plus (GE Enbrighten) dimmers that was freaking it out. I had it hooked up to the neutral+line+ground–no load, no transfer wire (it was acting as a secondary switch).
Side note: I’m probably happier with it where it is now–I wanted the LED strip in that other box, but it doesn’t work well using the dimmer as an aux switch (using associations–there were delays, etc. that made it a bit erratic controlling the light). If the noise issues can be resolved, I might be more inclined to replace one of the GE Enbrighten switches in that 3-gang box.
Along those lines. Is there any reasonable way to tweak these dimmers/switches so that two of them can be connected via the traveler–and communicate fully (sync the dimmer levels, scene/multi-taps, etc.)? E.g., add to the existing modes of operation so they can be “Aux switch” and “Aux Switch Commons Scenes”??
Not sure if that could be done in the firmware-or if it would need new hardware as well.
Note: Bonus points if the Red Series Switch could have a Red Series Dimmer as the “Aux Switch” (that would allow the full size LED strip to be used in the Aux location–and, since it wouldn’t carry the load, you’d still have the full benefit of the guaranteed instant on/off for loads that can’t be dimmed). Personally, now, the “no neutral” issue isn’t an issue for me–I had to resolve that years ago and I have line & neutral available for all my switches/dimmers (although, I suspect that IS an issue for some people).
For flexibility, even more bonus points if there was a way to power the Aux Dimmer/Switch through the traveler to avoid the requirement to have line power on the other end (I’d guess you’d always need a neutral there).
If nothing else, this is an idea to ponder.
And, in any case, it would give people a reason to buy a second one of YOUR switches/dimmers instead of a GE/Jasco one.
That’s exactly how you would do it now. Presumably, there is a 3-wire Romex between the two switches. You send the Line over 1 conductor and the neutral over another. The third conductor isn’t used.
You misunderstood me. The current devices aren’t at all capable of doing what I’m talking about.
I’m talking about having a PHYSICAL “traveler” link between the primary and secondary switches that would allow all switches to keep the LED dim status and optionally scene activation in sync (at best, that must be done via “associations”–which is kinda janky and doesn’t seem to be nearly as responsive as using the GE/Jasco Aux switch).
Since the wire running to the remote switch wouldn’t necessarily have line voltage (you currently only need neutral, traveler, and a ground for the GE/Jasco Aux switches), my comment was suggesting that the traveler wire could supply power from the primary switch to the ones acting as “Aux” switches in addition to serving it’s communication purpose.
If the power was sent via 50-60Hz AC and the on/off/scene-selection was sent via interrupted DC current, they could possibly be split off with a capacitor.
Maybe partly. You are correct about the current capability. I was just responding to the “bonus points” section where you spoke of powering via a traveler. That’s just how it can be done now. Nothing special.
But, your “now” has no traveler and is co-opting the wiring to pass neutral/line/ground.
I’m talking about a situation that would use a true “traveler” wire and a GE Aux switch setup (meaning the box only has neutral/traveler/ground) and no way to add a “line” power lead.
Thus, it is a notably different situation as you wouldn’t want to connect line power to the traveler wire with a neutral on the other side (unless you were out of fireworks and still wanted some sparks to fly ).
