Z-Wave 800 Series 2-1 Switch (On/Off & Dimmer) | Project Phoenix

Lol true, trying to give him a break every once in a while!

Hey thanks! Glad you like them, we’re really proud of how they turned out :slight_smile:

Major shoutout to the beta testers for the many hours of testing and documenting everything, the awesome community members who have given us some great ideas and brainstormed everything with us and finally to the people who pre-ordered and supported this project before it came out. I know that carries a level of risk and we sincerely appreciate it.

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Just wanted to say I’ve got 6 of my 10 phoenix switches installed tonight and I couldn’t be happier! Thank you to the whole inovelli crew for continuing to support zwave as a first class citizen and for these high class switches!

Can you confirm that there’s no firmware updates needed right now out of the box from the factory version?

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Found it, I don’t know what I was looking at.

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A post was split to a new topic: Flickering/Glowing when Off - Red Series 2-1

I have a contractor installing this type of lighting. Any concerns running these on the new reds?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-Contractor-Select-Wafer-Series-4in-3000K-4000K-5000K-Switchable-White-Integrated-810-Lumen-LED-Canless-Recessed-Fixture-264T2W/306570225

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Shouldn’t be any concern, but if possible maybe setup a rig to see if dims or flickers before you install X amount.

Less expensive and likely better quality:

So I was looking to use 1 of my reds to replace an old jasco in my garage that is wired to an outlet and has 4 LED shop lights hooked up to it. Can I do that in on/off mode? Do I need to change any settings: trailing to leading? That stuff has me all sorts of confused!?

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Your first step should be to hard-wire the shop lights, as you should not use a smart switch with a receptacle, Jasco, Inovelli or any other. Electrical codes prohibit the use of a switch with a receptacle that is not capable of carrying the load the circuit is rated for (i.e. the breaker rating). AFAIK, no smart switch is rated to carry all types of loads at 15A. This is why Inovelli will consider the warranty void is you use the switch in this configuration. Plus, at a basic level, it’s just not a safe thing to do.

You should also review the specs of your shop lights to determine the total draw and compare that to the Inovelli specs. If the lights aren’t dimmable, then you will need to use the on/off mode for the directly wired lights. But ensure the Inovelli is rated for whatever your shop lights will draw.

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@murv82 @Bry
The Leviton DZ15S-1BZ might be ok to control a receptacle. I can’t find anything in their docs that says one way or the other, but with the exception of CFL lights, it is fully rated for other loads. Specifically, it is rated for 1800W incandescent, 15A for traditional ballasted tube fluorescent, 15A resistive, and 1/2 HP motor. These are the same ratings they list for their DZR15 receptacle. The only differences I see are that the receptacle specifically lists 1800VA Inductive, and the switch doesn’t list an inductive rating. Also, the switch lists 600W for LED/CFL, but the receptacle doesn’t give a specific rating for LED/CFL. *I don’t know why they list amps for some of the ratings and watts for others, but the math checks (assuming 120 volts).

Anyway, I have the DZ15S controlling my garage lights which are traditional ballasted tube fluorescents, and it works fine. I don’t have it connected to a receptacle, but the ratings make it seem like it would be fine (I suspect it is using the same circuitry as their receptacle). I wish I could find something in their literature that specifically said one way or the other though.

FYI, my testing found that if you didn’t associate group 2 then the ramp rate settings didn’t get used. Only dimming speed ones did. There have been lots of posts about only using 3 and 4 working but they weren’t using different ramp and dimming times.

Not sure if there’s a new area for firmware requests -

I love that the “Ramp Rate” settings have a “Sync with Parameter #” option.

I’d really love if we could have the same choice for Default Level Local & Remote. I love to change my default brightness based on time of day, and it’s kind of kludgy to update both settings individually. That’s the one feature I really like about the Zooz switches which I’d love to carry over to my new Reds

I got my first two of these switches installed, and they are working great (I already had a couple of the Red series switches so I was familiar with them). However - I wanted to do a bit of playing with changing settings on the notification bar, and I discovered that the parameter for pulsing, blinking, etc. (“LED Strip Effect” on the previous switches) isn’t listed in the parameters page on github. Did I miss something?

Take a look at the params starting at 64: Z-Wave JS Config DB Browser

This switch support LED effects at a per led level (there are 7 of them) as well as the whole bar.

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That webpage is very helpful - thanks! The github list skips from 52 to 95.

Should the relay click on these switches? They don’t for the Blue 2-1 switches.

Depending on your setup( 3way with dumb switch) it will.

If using single pole or aux switch you should be able to turn off the relay click.

When in on/off mode (and the correct parameter is enabled) or using a dumb multi-way configuration (always) you will hear an audible relay click.

Is there a way to bulk send parameter values to multiple switches at the same time? And if not at the same time, some sort of “command line” where you could copy and paste? I find ZWave JS UI in Home Assistant to be a little frustrating/hard to parse/lots of scrolling/etc.

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I have a Red 2-1 switch installed in single pole mode with a neutral wire. I cannot find the setting to change to switch between trailing edge and leading edge. What’s the parameter?