So…my question now is: how can I replace #2 and #3 combo swtiches with an inovelli red series on/off?
I don’t care if the red series controls both parts of the combo switches - I don’t know what the lower halfs do anyway.
Can I connect the two hots on the combo and then pig tail to into the red series? Then do the same with the line wires? (the other two wires have to be line wires if they’re not hot I presume).
If you tell me to get an electrician, I will…and I can finally leave you alone for the long weekend
It’s always a good idea to get an electrician if you are unsure. I’m not going to comment specifically on how to wire things, however. While I will often help when I’m sure of the configuration, I’m less so certain with yours. The weird (to me) switch loop with a hot on the same circuit in the box, as well as conductors that you have no idea where they go gives me concern.
But to answer your question, if you have two conductors that need to be wired to the same terminal on an Inovelli, there are two backwire holes on the switches and dimmers. So you do not have to pigtail, just use both holes.
I would still get your electrician to look at that when he/she comes out.
Here is why I find that strange. Let’s say you are an electrician roughing in that box. We’ll disregard that 4th switch and other circuit for simplicity. Start by bringing a hot and neutral to the box via a 2-wire (which you have, apparently, according to your diagram). So if there are three switches in the box, for example, you pigtail or daisy chain the hot to one side of each of the three switches. Then connect the blacks from the load wires to the other side of each of the switches. Bundle all the white neutrals together and all the bare grounds together and you’re done at the box.
But in your case for some reason, the leftmost switch didn’t get it’s feed from the hot in the box. Somehow, an unswitched hot (i.e. line) shows up in the light box for that Inovelli leg and gets switched via a switch loop. Why didn’t the line start in the switch box with the other two switches?
Maybe I’m missing something and someone else here may have an idea of what is going on. I know that it seems like all three switches are on the same breaker but that hot starting in the light box suggests otherwise. It’s still troubling to me, so I thought I’d post back.
Latest update (in case anyone is still interested):
Electrician came in, and installed the switches. Eliminated the two combo switches in the middle by tying together the line + load on the bottom halves of #2 and #3. No current passing through them, so they may power outlets somewhere yet to be found. Here’s the latest wiring diagram.
So now…the red on/off switch powers 8 LED lights on my stairs. Works just fine…that is…until you turn red series switch OFF (referring to #2 switch in diagram, all others work find, the bulbs are different).
And get this: only 3 of the 8 LEDs flash very briefly every 10-15 seconds or so. What a lovely new problem to have!! When I pull the air-gap, the flashing stops. I’ve started to read about the Aeotec bypass, but the electrician doesn’t think that will help (or he just doesn’t know).
What’s really weird is that only 3 of the 8 lights flash. Is this a thing? Maybe they’re the first 3 on the circuit? Would appreciate any knowledge/ideas how to fix this one.
If you have incandescents try those first to rule out any weird wiring. Then try LEDs and set the min power level to 80%. If that works lower until flickering starts again.
I’m thinking the bulbs are incompatible. I have a couple no name red and green LED bulbs that I’ve had for quite some time. They flash when off connected to a LZW30-SN. Other LEDs work fine.
One per circuit. You could technically install at the switch since you have neutral there, but most installs are at the light. Not saying 109% the bypass will fix it, but worth trying before finding new sconces.
It makes a bit more sense knowing that you’re using drivers with low voltage bulbs, not just 120VAC bulbs.
One thing to check on is to determine if those drivers are ELV or MLV. I looked at the Hatch Lighting website but the data for the LCA004-UNI driver doesn’t specify. Inovelli dimmers support MLV only. They are not compatible with ELV drivers.
I’m more than happy to call Hatch Lighting to get the answer to that. But let’s just remember that we aren’t dealing with a dimmer, we’re dealing with a Red Series on/off switch…and I’m just trying to turn the lights OFF…and stay off! ha.
Seems to me that there’s still some current in the line (“inductive capacitance” or whatever) that’s building up just enough to cause 3 of the 9 lights to discharge every 10 seconds when switched off.
This is why the Aeotec bypass has been suggested. The circuit might need a bit more resistance (as I understand it).
The Aeotec bypass is out of stock in Canada, so I’m trying to find another solution, even if its temporary. Maybe I can go to Home Depot and just buy a regular halogen light and add it to the circuit - that might introduce enough resistance into the line when its off to stop the flashing. I don’t want to live in a 24 hour disco party.
Does anyone know if the Red Series on/off switches leak a little bit of power? Is that possible?
Yes they do. For example I had some cheap under cabinet lighting that I had to install a bypass to turn them off completely. I had a 3 way connected so that was a little different but yes there is some power.
