Spent about 10 hours on this and I’m now reaching out for help. Purchased the 2-1 blue, fan canopy module and aux. I have a three-way that previously had a Lutron Caseta and a dumb switch on the other side of the kitchen- also an RF module in the canopy. The goal is to independently turn on and off the fan and lights. Can someone be so kind as to help me out please - my wife is killing me with no light in the kitchen for a week. Doesn’t help that I just had knee surgery. PLEASE. I’ve (poorly) drawn out what wiring looked like from videos that I recorded prior to taking off Lutron and dumb switch. Not shown in pic where dumb switch is : bundle of neutrals. Please let me know if anything else is needed
Unfortunately, you’re going to need a bit more than the drawing. You picked a bad time to have knee surgery, lol.
Based on your conductor colors, it seems you have Romex or fabric-covered wires, not individual wires in conduit, correct?
On the dumb switch side, you mentioned that a white (probably neutral) bundle is in that box (but not shown in the picture). We have to figure out where power originates and then take this step by step.
In the dumb switch box, is there a 2-wire (black, white and ground) AND a 3-wire (black, white, red and ground)? If so, is the black from the 2-wire attached to the BLACK screw on the dumb switch?
(This is gonna take a while . . . )
Tell me about it! Surgery sucks. Thanks for helping. Yes Romex and here’s a pic of the dumb switch (which now houses the aux).
Both black wires were on the black screw
Okay thanks. And what do you have in the other box? Does that also have a 2-wire and a 3-wire?
If so, did you test to determine which box has the two wire with the incoming hot and neutral?
This box houses (left the 3way, middle another light and right is another 3 way but that’s using a pico remote.
From what it looks like to the Layman 3 sets of the 5 sets of the two wires (the black ones) are tied together with the yellow wire nut and then branches off into the line of the Inovelli
Are you trying to say that in the Aux box, the black conductor from the 3-wire is hot?
Did you separate the two black conductors by taking the wire nut off and pulling them apart? You cannot test with the wires connected together.
I expect that if the black conductor of the 3-wire in the Aux box is hot, the black conductor of the 2-wire in the aux box will not be. Is that correct?
That is correct. I removed and separated both and tested. The 2 is not hot. The 3 is.
If that checks out, go back to the Inovelli box and remove the black conductor from the 3-wire that is connected to the load terminal. Then go back to the aux box and retest. Nothing should be hot there any longer. Please confirm.
Removed from load on the Inovelli . And in the aux box, nothing hot. Sorry, taking me longer than usual with crutches going outside. Thanks again for helping me out.
No worries. Last post tonight from me, but here is a summary of what I believe you have and the direction in which you should go.
This is a line and load in separate boxes. The line box is the box where you installed the dimmer and the load box is the box where you installed the Aux.
So when the line box you have the incoming hot which is all bundled up. Leaving that box and going to the Aux box is a 3-wire. In the Aux box you have that three wire as well as a 2-wire that should be the load going up to the fan.
Since you are using a canopy module here is what you need from a design level:
The dimmer is just going to be a scene controller. It will not have a load on it since you will control the canopy either by binding or automations. Either way, it just gets a hot and a neutral, which I think you already have wired.
The Aux switch needs a traveler from the dimmer and a neutral wire.
The canopy needs a constant hot and neutral.
Hopefully this makes sense to you. Wiring in the next post.
You’re the best. I’ll tackle tomorrow as it’s late. I appreciate your help and hopefully I can finish this tomorrow.
In the dimmer box, it looks like the Inovelli is properly wired with a hot and neutral, at least from what I can see. The dimmer will NOT have a load, so remove that black which ought to be from the 3-wire. Leave the red attached to the traveler terminal, which is presumably also part of the 3-wire. (Don’t take this wrong, but that box is a disaster so what I can see is limited.)
In the dimmer box, connect the 3-wire black to the second hole of the line terminal. Connect the 3-wire white to the second hole of the neutral terminal.
So now in the Aux box, the incoming three-wire will have a hot, a neutral and a traveler.
In the Aux box, wire nut the two blacks together. This sends the constant hot to the fan box.
In the Aux box, connect the two whites to the two holes of the Aux. This gives the Aux the required a neutral and also provides a neutral to the fan box.
In the Aux box, connect the red to the traveler terminal of the Aux.
That should be it for the switches. At this point you should have a constant hot and neutral at the fan box. The Inovelli should power up properly and communicate with the aux, which you can test by sending multitaps after you connect it to your hub. Don’t forget to set the switch settings to reflect that the dimmer is connected to an Aux.
With the required hot and neutral at the fan box you should be able to follow the instructions and wire the canopy.
Thanks again for assistance . Everything is wired up from what I think is correctly. I’ve been trying to figure this out all day and I’m reaching out again.
I’ve rechecked all bundles and connections and stripped and tightened everything numerous times. Set the dimmer switch to aux mode. Created automations for hitting the top paddle turn on the light and the bottom paddle to turn off the light and ran the action through Home Assistant and everything works well through Home Assistant.
The problem lies with the dimmer location if I turn it off there/Down on the paddle then In the aux location it’s like there’s no communication/power. I tried to listen to the event on developer tools in Home Assistant and nothing registers if the paddle is pressed down or off. The dimmer switch gives off of audible click like a relay going off. I don’t know if that’s normal. I might be normal, but who knows.
At least for the time being more able to control the light on and off through the dimmer location and home assistant, But in the aux Location I’m only Able to turn off the light if the light is already on and then nothing after that- AT LEAST THERES LIGHT IN THE KITCHEN YAY 
It can’t be a power issue at the Aux. You are simply connecting the hot and neutral at the dimmer to 2 conductors of the 3-wire. There is no load on the switch, so there is no way the switch can cut power to the Aux box. Plus, if it was, it would be cutting power to the light at the same time.
But if you want to check, it’s easy enough to check at the Aux box. You should have a constant hot and neutral there. Using a METER, test between the 2 blacks and the white of the 3-wire (or bundle if you pigtailed). You should get 120V constantly regardless of the dimmer’s position.
Please confirm there is nothing wired to the Load terminal of the dimmer.
Yes checked again with meter to confirm, there is a hot Black wire, which is pigtailed to the other black wire In the aux box. There is nothing wired into the load of the dimmer
What’s the voltage between the black and the white in the Aux box?
119.8/119.9