Blue light not coming on, flickering lights in single pole setup

Hello all

I am trying to get this switch (VZM32-SN) set up but am having issues.

When I replace my dumb switch (see attached images)my smart lights flash on and off. I had seen there is a possible issue where the bulbs aren’t allowing enough power down the line to power the switch. I tried switching to dumb lights but that didn’t resolve the issue. All the while when they are flashing I don’t get the blue light on the switch and it isn’t discoverable as a ZigBee device

In my image the black wire is 120v

I followed this as that looks to be the proper installation method with the switch off of the light like what I have (One set of wires coming to the switch box).


Z0o%3D

Is there any hope for this to work? Am I just doing something wrong?

Thanks in advance

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Did you test each of the conductors in the switch box to determine which is hot? You have a switch loop, and an electrician will typically wire with the white to the switch box as the hot.

Don’t just switch them if you haven’t tested. Use a non-contact tester to determine which is the hot.

If you are wired correctly, then stick with the dumb bulbs until you get it working. If the switch isn’t powering up, you’ll need a bypass at the light.

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Hey thanks for the reply

Yes, I tested to see what was the hot wire with a contactless tester. When the circuit is live and wires disconnected the black wire is high and the white is showing nothing. So I guess that’s the load

So I need a bipass at the light? What would that look like? Is there an example?

Sometime one works, but other s have sometimes needed more than one.

Hello (roommate here), is there an alternative option in Canada? All of the things mentioned in this thread apply in our case:

We’re also not seeing any indication that the switch itself works, is there something we can do to test the switch itself without a neutral wire?

I’m hesitant to go hunting for a product which we don’t understand, seems not to be rated for fire safety in our country, and is unavailable via trusted providers here.

So when you have a non-neutral, in simple terms, the light needs to leak enough to power the switch. That’s what a bypass does. It doesn’t have to be the Inovelli bypass, the Aeotec or similar will work.

I can’t speak to the CA electrical code, but I noticed that Aartech carries the Fibaro bypass, but is out of stock. So they are definitely sold in Canada.

There is a workaround if you’re going to use a Zigbee smart bulb in the fixture. That is to re-wire at the fixture full time and then wire the hot and neutral to the 2-wire going to the switch. Then wire the switch with the hot and neutral. You’ll then need to bind the switch to the bulbs, or use automations.

So there is a downside to this technique. But it sounds like you wanted to use smart bulb(s) anyway.

Also, since the light is then full-time hot, if that bothers you, add a smart relay to cut power to the bulb(s) if need be.

If you can put a larger wattage dumb bulb load in the fixture, that might help to test. But unfortunately, without a bypass, there isn’t too much to try.

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