Blue Series 2-1 Firmware Changelog | VZM31-SN

I didn’t mean to come off as dramatic, I was just stating that for most people here it would likely not be recommended to run. If you’re willing to test and break your network then by all means go for it. However, I run it myself and have found the dev releases sporadically work or completely break things.

If I’m testing, sure I use it, but in an environment where I want the least amount of problems I’d recommend stable release every time. As I read how many users were having issues the last thing I’d want to do is create more problems that taint the baseline of this new firmware update. It will likely just add more confusion to the mix.

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Hello
I’ve upgraded all dimmers to 2.14. I am using HA with Z2M platform. After upgrade:

  1. Not all switches got 2.14 from the first time, but I solved it with Dev Console tweaking as was suggested in this thread
  2. Horrible buzzing at max power, I have MR16 LED. That was not a case with 2.08. Fixed it as suggested by changing switchType to “3-Way Dumb Switch” (no clue why)
  3. I can’t get rid of the relay clicks , changed parameter relayClick - Any help?
  4. All parameters in Z2M are “undefined” or “grayed”, so I do not know what was initial factory set-up (default). Is it normal? If it is normal, where can I get default settings (I really have hard time to go thought all LEDs settings and adjust HUE and intensity numbers. Any suggestion
  5. Is there any way to copy settings from one switch to all other switches? Like mass-update or something?

Thanks
Vladi

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I’m going to try to do a packet capture this weekend if it helps to understand what’s going on here.

@EricM_Inovelli

@vladimir.korobov I believe 2.14 increased the max output. You can lower the max output setting to fix this

Question about single-pole full sine wave output: I understand this is designed to be used with on/off mode when the switch is controlling the load. What about when the switch is in smart-bulb mode? Will the internal virtual dimmer work if the switch is in smart bulb mode with full sine wave enabled? Just looking out for the long-term health of my smart bulbs - some of mine are cheap and I wouldn’t be surprised if having a notch cut into the waveform powering them causes lifetime issues…

I am not sure I see increase in brightness of LEDs, but I would like somebody from support (Inovelli) to confirm that statement and tell exactly by how much they increase the output.
What about pamperers non-defined in Zigbee2MQTT?

There’s these things called release notes…

Check the first post in this thread.

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@Avi - thanks for pointing to realize notes location.
As I’ve mentioned, I do not see any mentioning of P56 or P100 or any other Parameters # for that matter in Zigbee2MQTT, which was one of my questions on how I can see default and parameter # in HA Z2M

Vladi

That’s sounds like an zigbee2mq issue.

To see what’s currently in the switch, click the blue refresh button to the left (click all if them while your there) Give it minute for the next update, or adjust a setting to make the switch update and then the current setting will show up in z2m.

If it doesn’t update, go into your z2m settings-- click advanced–change “last seen” to disable. Go back into your device and try the refresh button again.

If you don’t see the new settings in z2m, you need to wait for the next z2m update (usually at the start of the month). You can try z2m edge if you’re in a hurry, it has the update already, but realize it’s a developer build (could have bugs).

Thank to everybody. Update:

  1. @avi Changed to “Single Pole” with limited “Max power”. Required some adjustment but no buzzing and no “clicking”. That awesome
  2. @mbrink - followed your suggestion - i tried blue refresh button, it did not work, checked “last seen” - it was was disabled. Toggle “last seen” several times, kept on disabled and, magic - it worked. But obviously to is work around, I have 30 dimmers :slight_smile: I don’t have that much time. So, here is my last question:
    If there any way to do mass update for setups?

Thanks upfront

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I’m also having this buzzing issue on HA/ZHA and I don’t seem to have a max power setting, just something called “Maximum load dimming level.” Is this the setting everyone is referencing or is it something else? I want to use an LED bulb in single-pole on/off configuration, but it’s buzzing like crazy on 2.14 when on at presumably full power.

Three way dumb seems to help, but that seems odd.

Full Sine Wave can only be activatied in On/Off mode. Its not available in Dimmer mode.

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Not quite the answer I’m looking for- let me re-phrase: does the choice between on/off and dimmer matter at all if smart bulb mode is enabled? If not, can we use full sine wave with smart bulb mode and have the 2in1 report level changes?

I originally posted that this won’t work in on/off mode. But I did a quick test and it does seem to work. Give it a try to see if it works for you. :blush:

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Yep, maximum load dimming level = max dim level.

I’m guessing this is with neutral? With 2.14 single pole would have changed to trailing edge instead of leading edge. It likely just comes back to your LED bulbs work better with leading edge so setting it to 3-way dumb works better for you since it changes that.

@Eric_Inovelli @EricM_Inovelli FYI - I have found that, especially after the firmware update, these switches don’t work well with florescent lights that use magnetic ballasts. Something in how they work causes the switch to heat up, and eventually die (in the same way I’ve seen before - where the switch can no longer control a load at all - it’s just permanently on, but is still on the Zigbee network and still receives/sends commands, the LEDs work, etc).

I’ve lost a number of switches that way. Thankfully I have enough slave switches in my house that I can swap some fully working slaves for the now-dead load baring switches. But I’ve now got a bunch of these ‘dead-ish’ switches in my house. Easily identifiable as they no longer ‘click’ when in on-off mode (which they are when controlling florescents).

But you should warn people, do NOT use these switches with florescent with a magnetic ballast. It will kill it’s ability to control a load.

Edit: I’ve just had all my florescent bypass their ballasts and replaced with LED bulbs. So I no longer have any magnetic ballasts in my house.

Honest question (seriously), but does this work as a warning?

I put a blanket statement on the site, but I can be more specific if you think it’s necessary? I want to make sure we’re as clear as can be before someone makes a purchase.

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I am not sure about electric ballasts. It will probably work fine with them. And more modern florescent lights use electric ballasts. But definitely not for magnetic ballasts.

Though I can’t say for sure. I would expect however that I’m not the only one controlling florescent lights with these switches, so I’m assuming others have electric ballasts (as more modern lights do) and have not reported any problems.

Ok, thanks – I’ve updated it to be a little more clear. Appreciate you letting us know!