I’ve installed ~30 Blue Series switches without major issues (though some had the stuck ground terminal issue). But one switch has a neutral terminal that’s stripped and won’t tighten down. I’m using a manual screw driver, so I’m a bit surprised that I may have stripped it.
What’s the best/safest way to fix this?
I am considering following the steps to re-insert a removed screw but potentially use a higher gauge screw. However, I’m worried about ensuring the connection stays solid over time.
I would pull the screw out and take a look at it. Odds are, the screw is stripped, not the backing plate. If that is the case then grab an unused screw from that or another switch and pop that one back in.
If it turns out to be the backing plate, swap it out with another that is unused. Disassembly instructions are in the thread you posted.
This worked great. Thanks!
You are not alone. I just stripped the neutral screw and the ground screw on a Red 2-1 switch using only moderate hand pressure. I can also feel the neutral screw on a second switch is wanting to strip. On the first switch, I don’t have spare screws and plates to swap out both the neutral and ground screws. Anyone have ideas where I can get replacements?
I’ve swapped out and moved around plenty Z-Wave and smart switches with the back terminals and clamps from many brands, including older generations of Inovelli. This is the first time I’ve had screw clamps fail.
On the neutral terminal I was using the supplied stranded jumper wire. When I have used those with the screw clamps on previous version of Red Dimmers and with GE/Jasco and Zooz switches, the clamps usually flatten the tinned stranded jumper wire a little bit. With this new Red 2-1, the stranded wire did not deform at all. It concerns me that the new 2-1 switch terminals are not generating enough pressure and proper contact with the wires.
Note: I am not putting the switch with stripped screws into service until I can swap in new/better screws or replace the whole unit.
Reach out to @Eric_Inovelli or @Courtney_Inovelli to see if they can send you replacement from failed units.
What @harjms said, but probably best to put it in a support ticket so they can track it.
Just coming back to say that I spoke about the screw threads stripping on the Red 2-1 switch with @Eric_Inovelli and sent photos. Eric shared that with the manufacturer. @Courtney_Inovelli mailed me out a replacement switch immediately. I’m sending them back the original switch with the stripped screws.
Apparently there have been other reports of users stripping out the screw heads/slots. Combined with the screw threads stripping bare when tightening down the plates, this might be a case of softer metal being used in those screws. It’s being investigated. Hopefully there aren’t too many others that have similar trouble until it’s sorted out.
I’ve got this problem on my second batch of blues. The load screw stripped out before I even got anywhere near tight. These newer units (2411) have the threaded end splayed with punch to keep you from removing the screw - so you need to swap the screw/plate as a unit. For this switch I just swiped the traveler screw/plate. To me the screw metal seems a bit soft.
I forgot to add that with these newer switches the plates are square - not an offset rectangle. It is also easier to put them back in the back shell and then lower the top/circuit board on top of the back shell. If it is possible to pick up a couple black screw/plate units that would be great (maybe add that as a parts item in the store). Having to scrounge or take out an existing switch to steel a part is a major pita.
