Blue Series 2-1 Signal / Routing / Performance Issue Troubleshooting Thread

That’s odd, I received the last mass email but not this one that I assume you sent out today?

I checked spam as well.

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Thank you for the update as always. I’ve kind of tuned out a bit, trying to just patiently wait for my switches. I know the holidays present their own challenge when it comes to this kind of stuff.

All I can say is best of luck working through it. I know some people are unhappy out there but I’m still excited and looking forward to really getting to use these switches once my replacements arrive. Looking forward to whenever I get confirmation on it.

P.S. - As someone who loves Amazon’s “Frustration Free Packaging” I’m a fan of the packaging move to cheaper recyclables. While the boxes I received were nice, one of them was damaged anyway, and none of them get seen for more than 5 minutes except maybe for a reseller–which I’m not. I’d much prefer cheaper packaging that can be recycled personally, although the time and effort that goes into designing the original packaging is not lost on me and is appreciated.

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@Eric_Inovelli Random Q: With using Hubitat, how do you make it so that when you press the up toggle 2x, it can for example, turn on another Blue Series switch? When pressing the button more than once, it still registers in Hubitat as pressing button 1, not button 2 like it says in all the manuals. Scene control is also something I see many references to, but no support for Hubitat. Is this not possible with Hubitat?

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Thank you for the update, much appreciated! :smiley:

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By chance, do you have Parameter 50, the Button Press Delay, set too low or turned off? If that is the case, the multitaps will not be recognized. Start with at least 500 ms and then adjust once the multitaps are being recognized.

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In addition to @Bry’s advice, be sure to use Inovelli’s button map with Hubitat’s Button Controller, Rule Machine, Room Lights etc apps… Go to the “2-1 Switch Button Mapping” link on this page:

Resources | Blue Series Smart 2-1 Switch (On/Off & Dimmer) - Manual - Switches / Wiki & How-To’s - Inovelli Community

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I also didn’t receive an email about this update. Maybe it hasn’t gone out yet?

Haven’t sent it out yet. We got about 2k extra switches from a vendor that I had to manually check the IEEE’s on to see what’s good and what’s not. What a pain.

I plan to send it out this afternoon/evening.

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Does that mean you’re using multiple vendors now? As it sounds as if it was unexpected to receive 2,000?

No we are not. We knew these were coming. ZWP shipped them back to us since we are the ones moving forward with fulfilling.

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Thank you, that was the problem. I had it set to 0ms.

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UPDATE: I have sent out the mass email. Hopefully you all got it. If you did not, please PM me!

PS - Check your spam :slight_smile:

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Yep, got it. Thanks to you and Courtney for all the hard work!!

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Thank you @Eric_Inovelli & @Courtney_Inovelli for plowing hard on this last push here - this will be great for all parties involved to finally have in the rear-view mirror!

Thank you @EricM_Inovelli for the fast turnarounds on all the Blue updates thus far – looking forward to cool things down the road.

Happy holidays to the whole Inovelli crew and community here!

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Anyone ever have a ground terminal break off? The screw came entirely out and the place where the screw goes in is moving around. I was able to align it again and screw it back down.

I’m wondering why it’s so hard to get the copper underneath the ground screw. The copper in my house is ridiculously thick lol.

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@Eric_Inovelli I’ve moved since pre-order and have updated my address in my account. I opened a ticket to have the replacement order shipping address updated since the pre-order was shipped to the old address. How do I verify the replacements will be shipped to the correct address?

No, but I did have a screw terminal strip with relative ease on one switch, didn’t take much force at all. Once it stripped it wouldn’t secure the wire. Luckily it was one of the defective switches so I just threw it away. I was only installing it as a placeholder until the replacements come in

It’s not just due to thick copper. If you unscrew the terminal (without backing it all the way), you’ll see the flat metal through the two holes where your wire is supposed to go. It doesn’t drop down enough like the rest of the terminals.

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Yup, I had one of those as well. The screw stripped at a lower torque than I had been applying on every other terminal of other switches. Fortunately that one was already defective for me as well.

I haven’t had an issue with the ground screw but I am having a hell of a time bending the soldered stranded wire and getting the J hook around the neutral screw.

Anyone found a trick to this?

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