No, but I did have a screw terminal strip with relative ease on one switch, didn’t take much force at all. Once it stripped it wouldn’t secure the wire. Luckily it was one of the defective switches so I just threw it away. I was only installing it as a placeholder until the replacements come in
It’s not just due to thick copper. If you unscrew the terminal (without backing it all the way), you’ll see the flat metal through the two holes where your wire is supposed to go. It doesn’t drop down enough like the rest of the terminals.
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Yup, I had one of those as well. The screw stripped at a lower torque than I had been applying on every other terminal of other switches. Fortunately that one was already defective for me as well.
I haven’t had an issue with the ground screw but I am having a hell of a time bending the soldered stranded wire and getting the J hook around the neutral screw.
Anyone found a trick to this?
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Why not just use the back-stab method instead? Much simpler, and it’s perfectly secure when done properly.
Two, actually.
Inovelli’s are designed to be back-wired, although you can use the j-hook method under the screw if you are a masochist. Strip the conductor to length using the guide on the back of the switch. Loosen the screw and then Insert the conductor into the hole, making sure the conductor is between the screw and the backing plate. Then tighten the screw.
I’d make my own pigtails using a white pulled from a #14 or #12. That way you have solid conductors. If for some reason you use both holes and you use the tinned pigtail, the backing plate won’t tighten well enough on the other conductor.
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I didn’t think you could use those for the ground wire. It would never fit in those holes.
What about the ground wire? Are you supposed to put those in one of the two holes in the back? It doesn’t seem to fit that way.
Ground wire should be back-wired the exact same way, but one big caveat with the Blues – if too long, the ground wire can poke straight through and block the upper paddle.
Just measure twice and be mindful of how far you’re inserting before tightening.
Also - anyone know how to get these to work in a 3-way configuration? I have them wired properly as detailed on the manual, but only one switch will actually turn the light on/off. I have set up Zigbee Binding but it always just says binding: 0.
It appears the Hubitat Zigbee Binding app does not work or I’m doing something wrong. Any ideas?
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Binding in Hubitat works well - I’m using it for one of my Blues.
Not sure if the documentation has been fixed yet, but when setting up the Master, use endpoint 02 (not 01)
Sorry I can’t help with the 3-way – I don’t have any of mine set up x-way.
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I’m trying to link two switches together. One has the load, the other doesn’t. Zigbee binding doesn’t do anything to fix this and there’s no documentation, but as far as I know this was said that they support 3-way switches - so far it doesn’t appear these work in a 3-way configuration unless you use the traveler wire which they specifically say not to do.
I have 2 smart switches in a 3-way configuration. One is hooked to load, one isn’t.
If you are binding 2 Blue switches together, you need to set up two bindings – once from one switch to the other, then another reversing master/slave.
My situation may be similar to yours – my original (dumb) setup was 3-way, but in reality, we use just one of the switches 99% of the time for that load. So I disconnected the 3-way wiring at both ends, and connected the load on one Blue.
For the other Blue, I didn’t connect any load – it’s just being used as a scene controller in smart-bulb mode.
But for one of its button configs (using Button Controller in HE), I have it turn on that load via the other Blue – the two switches aren’t formally bound, but that reaction is still lightning fast. Works a treat.
Smart bulb mode will keep constant power on the load connection. If none is connected, this is not needed. I have found that setting up two bindings like you said works to keep them at same dim level, power, etc etc. But I had to set one as a 3-way aux switch under aux type. This has made the slave switch not turn power onto the load. I have smart bulb mode OFF as I’m not trying to supply constant power.
If anyone can chime in and say this is the “right” way to do it or not I’d appreciate it. It’s working as expected, but I want to see if this is the correct configuration.
I misspoke about the SBM - I was mixing up scenarios. Good luck with you situation.
Yeah hopefully I can figure it out. Also after setting up Zigbee binding, no other switches will pair to the hub correctly. I can’t get any new switches paired now. This sucks… 
Update: It appears two switches that are in the good range also won’t pair. The rest do. I think there may be more than might need added to the list of bad ones. These will not pair at all. I’ve tried multiple times. Blue light blinks, Hubitat counts down from 60 seconds, nothing found and the switch no longer pulsates. This happens on two switches that have an IEEE of 94:DE:B8:FF. Both switches are the only ones I have with that IEEE and both fail to pair, all the rest pair.
Oof, that’s not great… Maybe try the ol’ on-off trick (shutdown HE via UI, disconnect at USB power and let it sit a couple minutes)?
If it’s any consolation, I have a few 94:DE:B8:FFs up & running, so they should be OK overall.
May not hurt to factory reset the switches before trying again too.
I did the hold up and config button till red thing to reset them. I pulled out the air gap, then back in and tried again. I can remove and re-add the other switches over and over but two of these fail to be discovered every time. Not sure what is wrong or what I should do.
UPDATE: Forcing routing to go the way I want fixed it. It’s been discovered now. Very strange. Seems some switches are still failing to route properly or my mesh is acting up in some other way. Not sure yet - I’ll keep investigating.
Wanted to provide an update on replacement units and tracking numbers.
Because these were already shipped in our shipping system (ShipStation) the easiest way for me to do this was to look up each individual who needed replacements and ship through their ORIGINAL direct order in Shopify.
So, if you are looking for your tracking number, it could and should be located in your account under your order number.
PLEASE NOTE: If you originally placed multiple orders, only ONE order was chosen at random and used to fulfill the replacement units. The number of replacement units coming is solely related to the number you entered into the Microsoft forum and NOT related to the order the tracking number is provided under. So if you placed an order for 10 switches in one order and then later placed multiple other orders, but are expecting 30 replacements - you will be receiving your 30 replacements and not the 10 units that Shopify/Inovelli account is saying were shipped. Please wait to receive the package and count the units or double check what you listed as a replacement count.
Thank you!
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