I wanted to chime in here and add that I’m still experiencing this issue as well. I updated otz and bin via a zstick on PC as secondary and still have issues with the dimmer controlling two hue bulbs. The most common issue is the power cuts and I need to airgap to get it back. It seems to happen only when the lights are dimmed.
I had other issues prior to this update but have yet to see them on 1.45 but it’s only been a day. The more common one was that the lights would be dimmed then flash and come back on brighter. I believe the power was momentarily dropping to the bulb and it was reverting to full brightness. I would also very occasionally get what I lovingly refer to as “Party Bathroom” with both bulbs flickering quickly and out of sync.
Side, probably unrelated, question: what do the “Activate” button and “Activation” toggle in the Silicon Labs controller software do in the firmware update section?
Thanks for the clarification @Daweeze. I purchased for overnight delivery from Amazon the ZooZ S2 stick and was able to run the Z-Wave Controller software on my MacBook Air via Parallels.
Even though I originally updated the otz file through Hubitat, I decided to run that updater and the .bin file through the stick per the instructions on this page:
It all went cleanly, and both Target 0 and 1 were updated.
The issue seems to be that nothing I do now changes the LED bar color as it is stuck on blue. I air-gapped the switch and tried a few different Inovelli drivers. I am using the one that was updated 6 days ago.
The page I got the bin and otz files from are here:
So I don’t know what more to try in order to get the strip to work as expected.
I also notice when I enable or disable local control from Hubitat, that it doesn’t seem to do so. I end up doing the 8x tap of the config button in order to get it to go.
Is there a specific order to update the two targets or something I may have done incorrectly?
Is there any single place I can go to find a list of changes, from version to version, for each piece of hardware? I apologize if there is and I’ve just missed it, but maybe that means it’s just not easy enough to find.
Why does one or two firmware for LZW31-SN have “Holtek” in the name? Who is Holtek and why would I care? (But more importantly, a changelog that’s easy to find would be super useful and I could read backwards through that and find it.)
To make it more friendly to newer users, can the directory structure say “Red Series Dimmer” or whatever?
Otherwise, I really like the files being available like this!
I agree, appended change logs and release notes are my preference as well. Especially useful when changing to something several releases later. I also prefer a the breakdown for Categories: Fixes, New Features, and Known Issues.
Just wanted to update progress here. After not having success with the one switch, I thought I would try fresh on a new one.
Followed all the instructions on the update page (tried target 0 first, then target 1), removed, reset and have been incapable of re-adding the switch back into Hubitat. It adds super easy in the controller software though.
I tried every combination of reset, restart, exclude (no effect), include (no effect), and even restarted the Hubitat. No joy.
Thinking that this was a problematic switch I picked a third switch (by switch I mean LZW31-sn), and same result.
I also read that there are instances where the switch requires a second flashing because the first does not always overwrite as expected. I did three and still cannot re-add into Hubitat. And yes, the signal strength is green.
@wsdavis, @Jbaskerville — I am having similar problems achieving stability when controlling smart bulbs. Are you experiencing trouble with a neutral or non-neutral configuration? What I have discovered is that with a smart bulb load and the dimmer set to 99 per Inovelli instructions it sends the dimmer into a reset loop. Depending on how the “State After Power Restored” parameter is set, the dimmer either would simply dive back into the reset loop, remain off, or some middle state. No matter what I have tried I still cannot achieve success with smart bulbs on a non-neutral circuit.
See this thread for more:
Note: I will be able to test with a neutral-equipped circuit in a few days and will be able to flash both target0 and target1 as soon as my DigiKey delivery arrives and I can perform the complete firmware update (at the moment all I can do firmware update wise is target0 using the Hubitat Firmware Updater App). I’ll keep posting as I test more.
@turbotiger - If you’re using it for notifications, then I would because the notifications go away after your turn on/off the light. If not, maybe just hold out until you deem necessary. Most of my lights haven’t experienced flicker, so it’s a use case basis I think (to upgrade or not).
@EricM_Inovelli so I experienced the flickering issue (more like strobing) on v1.45 with the style of fixture/light I sent you and Eric. I have an MP4 video of it, but it doesn’t look like I can upload those types of files. The only way I could resolve it was to pull the air gap. This happened from a manual push of the button directly after I loaded the firmware and re-included it into ST.
@rpulivella…thanks for the callout. I am not using smart bulbs with any of my Inovelli switches, however, my fixtures are dimmable white LEDS…so may it has more to do with the LED control than the fact they are smart bulbs. FWIW…my switches have the neutral wired in.
@EricM_Inovelli - nothing, nada. Green signal strength and it previously joined (and unjoined when I did the update), with no issues. The third one I tried is even closer to the Hubitat (one less wall to go through). To test, I located a switch even further away and through yet another wall and was able to un/ rejoin it (not firmware updates - still 1.35).
I have not yet re-downloaded the 1.45 firmware to the first switch (a couple posts up from this one), as it re-joined, but the disable local control and non of the LED stuff works on it (color change, etc,).
Yes, correct local control, and even if I put the custom color in, the color stays blue. I deleted it and selected the new white, and nothing. Very confused.
Can you make sure both debug and information logging are enabled and then try to turn it on / off and change some settings? Also, turn it on / off from the wall and try to activate some scenes. See if there is any response in the logs from the device.
Can’t seem to get the LED to change to white on mine. I updated the firmware to 1.45 and updated the Driver code in Hubitat to include the newest version with the “1.45 only” white option. I remove my “custom RGB” value and select “white”. The LED turns red. Parameter 13 says 234.
I experimented a bit and changed it to pink just to make sure the drop down was taking effect. The bar does change to pink and then parameter 13 changes to 255 (which is what I thought white was supposed to be?) A bit confusing. But doesn’t seem to work for me, regardless.
@EricM_Inovelli - as instructed. The first image are the lines are from just trying to change the colors of the strip from white to pink (no custom value):
The rest of the commands are local operation of the switch (It will not respond to scenes at the switch) The list is a lot longer but it looks pretty typical:
These last couple lines are me disabling and re-enabling local control at the UI - please note, it does nothing to the actual switch, but the UI looks like it did:
Lemme know if I should try re-zapping it or something else you see?
I also tried to re-add the other two switches today (after a 5-minute power down of the Hubitat), thinking that things just needed a good reset, and resetting the switches, but they will not re-add.
I did not enable security for them, and when I did the flashing, I canceled the security on the pop-up per the instructions. I will bet dollars to donuts that I did something wrong, but I cannot figure out what.
(But more importantly, a changelog that’s easy to find would be super useful and I could read backwards through that and find it.)
