Flickering light with 2 in 1 in a 3-way no neutral.

I just finished wiring an Inovelli 2-in-1 switch in my hallway in a 3-way setup and I am looking for some guidance.

The power comes in at the light fixture, so there is no neutral in either switch box. In the main box I have a 2-wire coming in with the white being hot, and a 3-wire running between the two switch boxes.

In the main box, I have the white from the 3-wire and the black from the 2-wire tied to Line. The black from the 3-wire is on Load, and the red is on Traveler. In the other box, the red is on Traveler and the black is on Neutral.

Originally I was going to install an Enbrighten motion switch in the hallway, which is why I had an Enbrighten add-on in place, but once I realized there was no neutral I scrapped that idea. Since I had extra Inovelli switches, I decided to install the 2-in-1 instead. I ordered an Inovelli aux switch, but it will not be here until the 12th.

Right now the switches work from both locations as expected, but when the light is on, the fixture flickers and the LED bar on the Inovelli flickers as well. The switch is currently set to On/Off mode and configured as a 3-way with Aux.

Any insight on whether this is a wiring issue, configuration issue, or just a temporary problem due to using the Enbrighten add-on instead of the Inovelli aux would be appreciated.

In the main box, the WHITE from the 2-wire goes to the Line, because that’s the hot conductor.

The Load is the black from the 2_WIRE

It’s always best to refer to the Inovelli wiring diagrams at https://help.inovelli.com

Sorry I mixed up the 2 wire and 3 wire when writing it. I followed that diagram. I have the white from the 2 wire on the line with the black from the 3 wire. The black from the 2 wire is on the load. The white on the 3 wire is capped in both boxes.

What is the load? Type of bulb, wattage, etc.

Its a single 26W CFL bulb, 1650 lumens.

My best guess is that you need a bypass at the light. It sounds as if the switch isn’t being fully powered because of the non-neutral configuration.

I swapped the CFL bulb with a Philips dimmable LED 5W (60W equivalent) bulb and the flickering stopped and the switches work. When the light is on the LED bar on the inovelli top half blue and bottom half red and I never made any changes to the LED bar parameters. Color when on is set to blue & all of the DefaultLed#ColorWhenOn & DefaultLed#ColorWhenOff are the same.

When on:

When off:

It’s either defective or has a wonky setting stuck. Factory reset it to see if that resolves it.

That fixed the red LED, thank you! I appreciate you helping me out.

Now when I turn the light on, the LED bar comes on bright for a second and then dims like the switch is off. The light will randomly shut off and the LED bar cycles cyan-blue-green, then the light turns back on and led bar goes back to how it was.

There’s no real pattern to it, sometimes it’s a few minutes apart and sometimes it happens again pretty quickly. Since it’s a hallway it’s not a huge deal for now. I ordered a bypass and I’ll install it when it comes in, hopefully that fixes both the LED bar behavior and the random shutoffs.

I had the same flickering problem with my bulbs in a closet wired without a neutral. I had a fixture adapter left over from some Cync no-neutral switches I bought. I installed it at the light and the flickering stopped. All is good now.

Cync Fixture Adapter

Thanks I just got the bypass in so Im gonna try that… but looking at the link you shared maybe the bulb im using is under 15W.

So I have another light wired the same way, but this one is a recessed LED fixture (no bulbs). When it’s wired without the aux switch it works fine, but obviously isn’t 3-way. As soon as I add the aux switch, the Inovelli switch buzzes when the light is turned on. This one is in a finished basement so it would suck to rerun a wire with neutral to it.

How do you have the Aux wired? Describe the connections.

Also, did you set the switch type to 3-way Aux?

Black on the neutral and red on traveler white capped. On the 2in1 the black is on the line & red is on Traveler, white is capped. The cable thats bringing power to the switch has the white(hot wire) on line, black on load. Set to 3way aux. With the 3 wire capped on both ends and just the white on line and black on Load of the 2in1 and setup as single pole sine wave it works.

It sounds as if it’s wired right.

What is the load? Is it dimmable?

This is just a guess, but when you add the Aux you lose the full sine wave output. The switch may not like that load without it.

If you remove the 3-wire and leave it wired it as a 2-way, and the set the switch type P22 to None (Default), do you get the same buzzing?

They switch controls 4 integrated recessed led lights.Honestly its so weird because now I cant get the switch to stop buzzing.

My buddy who’s an electrician originally helped me wire both boxes. The Inovelli is in a double gang with a Jasco Enbright motion switch (separate circuits). The aux is in a triple gang with two other Inovellis, and those two are on a different circuit than the aux & the Jasco.

The first time he wired it up the inovelli was buzzing and then i explained where each wire went and he fixed the wiring and it stopped buzzing but aux wouldnt turn the light off only on.

I told him I’d figure it out since he had to leave. Before I changed anything, the 3-way worked (aux could turn it on but not off) and there was no buzzing. The two switches in the triple gang were also working fine with no buzzing. I used all those switches regularly until I took them apart i just didn’t use the aux switch at all since it only turned on and its downstairs in the basement. I didnt start rewiring it until after I did the switches I originally made this post about, because I knew it was the same setup. Once I got that working properly I started redoing the 3 way.

When I opened everything up, I noticed he had the 3-wire white tied to neutral on both the Inovelli and the aux, and the black from that 3-wire was capped, but in the double gang it was in a wirenut with the white 2 wire(hot). He also kept the grounds separated i guess he thought they had to be since they’re on different circuits? His job only does new builds outlets, switches, and lights but only started working as an electrician 2 years ago.

I took apart the double gang first. I combined the grounds and wired the Inovelli without the 3-wire connected. It worked fine, no buzzing, on/off was good. I didn’t try dimming at that point. Then I reattached the 3-wire.

Next I went to the triple gang, combined the 3-wire ground with the other grounds, and wired the aux switch and tested the 3-way. It worked, but now the Inovelli in the double gang started buzzing.

After your comment, I removed the 3-wire from the Inovelli completely and tried every config:

Single pole, Single pole sine wave, 3-way with aux, 3-way with dumb switch with On/off mode & Dimmer mode

No matter what I did, I couldn’t get it to stop buzzing.

I was like how are the other switches in the triple gang not buzzing and I turned them on for the first time since combining the grounds and noticed they were buzzing now. The middle Inovelli (controls 6 of the same type of lights) and the right inovelli(controls 4 of the same type of lights) were buzzing noticeably. The right Inovelli had a very faint buzz I could only hear it if I put my ear right up to it, but the middle was as loud as the 3 way. I removed the 3 wire grounds in both boxes completely so none of the 3 wire is connected and it didnt change anything.

For both of the inovellis in the triple gang box if I switched them to single pole and then immediately back to single pole sine wave, the buzzing stopped. But as soon as I dimmed them, the buzzing came back, even if I put it to max.

I also tried switching between dimmer and on/off mode just to compare sound differences. What I noticed was once it started buzzing, even if I switched it back to the previous config that wasn’t buzzing before, and it was max brightness it would still buzz. The only thing that consistently stopped it was having it at max brightness and going to single pole and immediately back to single pole sine wave. That would instantly kill the buzzing.

Eventually, the middle switch (the one controlling 6 lights) stopped dimming entirely. The LED bar on the switch dims, but the lights don’t change and it doesn’t buzz anymore.

I then manually changed it from leading edge to trailing edge at the switch. The properties page never changed from leading edge, but after I did the manual config (LED flashed cyan), it completely removed the buzzing on the two switches in the triple gang.

The 6-light switch still won’t dim though, even after that. Both of those triple gang switches have neutrals.

I tried the same manual leading/trailing edge config on the 3-way Inovelli. It made the buzzing slightly quieter, but it didn’t eliminate it and didnt change in the properties.

Originally, all the switches in the triple gang were Lutron Diva CL dimmers didnt require a neutral connection. The switch that was in the 3-way location where power comes in must have been a dumb switch because he tossed that one.

I’m confused and don’t even know what to do. I have a bypass i can try to install. I work with low voltage for my job and did typical troubleshooting i would do when the issue isnt the programming and replacing the controller doesnt work and I cannot get it to the original state of no buzzing. At my job i would say theres probably a short in the wire somewhere when controllers are having issues that swapping them doesnt fix, but ive never had buzzing happen and usually the shorts from a wire getting caught on an actuator which i dont have in my walls(to my knowledge).

Man, you’ve got a lot going on there, lol. I’m going to re-read it. Some of it is a bit hard to follow, not because you did a bad job of describing it, but there’s just a lot there.

I’ll start with the easy one:

All grounds in the same box must be bundled together. (NEC 250.148) I don’t think that’s your issue, but on the other hand, bad grounds can do funny things. Clean that up to see if it makes a difference.

Neutrals from 2 branch circuits in the same box are kept separate, however.

It sounds like you may have cleaned this up?

I don’t think you answered my question. I know you said they are integrated recessed LEDs, but do you have a make and model.

Also, are you sure they are dimmable???

When you described the wiring earlier you described it correctly, but what you just described isn’t correct. You have a non-neutral, so the Aux gets a hot, not a neutral. It sounds like your buddy wired the two neutral terminals on the Inovelli and Aux together via the white. This makes no sense since there isn’t a neutral in the Inovelli box.

However, he did send the hot to the Aux over the black. So remove the white in the Aux box and cap it off. I’d probably remove it from the Inovelli too, since it’s not doing anything. In the Aux box, attach the hot black (that is connected to the white hot in the Inovelli box) to the Neutral terminal of the Aux.

Unless I’m misunderstanding your descriptions, that should be your proper wiring.