I have a non-neutral at my switch box but I’m struggling to figure out where to put the bypass. I have already confirmed hot and neutral wires from a multimeter using ground to find hot at the switch and fan. The canopy works fine when I connect the wires at the switch directly, but when I connect the switch I get nothing.
Edit: When I run my multimeter over the connected load and line at the switch I only get 95V across them vs. 120V when they are disconnected.
You are not wiring correctly.
When you are using an Inovelli switch AND a canopy module, the switch and the canopy module must be wired hot continuously. There is no load on the switch, just a hot and a neutral. You can’t wire as a non-neutral when mating with the canopy module.
Since you only have a 2-wire between the fan box and the light box, at the fan box you must re-wire to send a hot and neutral to the switch box, effectively removing the present switch loop configuration. (Black to hot, white to neutral and ground to ground.
The Inovelli switch is wired black to Line, white to neutral and ground to ground. Nothing in the Load terminal. No bypass is required.
Please review the Inovelli wiring diagram:
Appreciate the quick reply. I’m still a little confused, so I don’t need the bypass after rewiring? Honestly I’d just leave it “on” the entire time but my wife likes the actual switch and not the phone app. Ha.
The bypass is usually used in non-neutral configurations in situations where the load isn’t drawing enough power the switch. In your case, you don’t need it because you are powering the switch with a hot and neutral (and there will not be a load). In this configuration, the switch will be powered properly without it.
With the switch powered as a scene controller, you should use the multi-tap capability of the switch to trigger automations the turn the light on and off and vary the fan speed from the switch.
Again, thanks for the quick reply. I appreciate your help.
