The only approved aux switches are ones made by Inovelli, GE / Honeywell (now Jasco), or HomeSeer.
However, some of the schematics show the aux switch as Made by GE or HomeSeer (no mention of Inovelli). Does this mean that the Inoveli Aux switch won’t work in these configurations?
I’m seeing the following quirks after having the Inovelli dimmers and Inovelli aux switches installed by an electrician in the follow configurations:
Inovelli Aux DOWN doesn’t turn-off light, but Aux SCENE does. After some time, the light begins flickering and then the DOWN button on the Aux starts working.
No. They will all work. I think some of the older diagrams from before Inovelli had their own Aux were brought forward without adding a note about the Inovelli Aux.
Don’t fully understand what you’re describing, but have you confirmed that the switch is set to 3-way with Aux?
This sounds like the switch is rebooting. Double-check the switch type for 3-way with Aux, but the could be a wiring fault, either miswiring or a loose conductor.
Does this mean that the Inoveli Aux switch won’t work in these configurations?
No. They will all work.
OK, great! Thanks for confirming
Inovelli Aux DOWN doesn’t turn-off light, but Aux SCENE does. After some time, the light begins flickering and then the DOWN button on the Aux starts working.
UP: paddle button that normally turns lights on
DOWN: paddle button that normally turns lights off
SCENE: small button beside paddle
The LED flashes cyan and yellow after turning-off the lights.
This sounds like the switch is rebooting. Double-check the switch type for 3-way with Aux, but the could be a wiring fault, either miswiring or a loose conductor.
Thanks, the switch is already set to Multi-Way Aux, so I’ll check the wiring. I’m wondering if it could be something like this.
What is the load on this leg?
The load is recessed lights with regular LED bulbs.
One way of troubleshooting is to first configure the switch as a 2-way to ensure it’s working ok first that way. Remove the 3-wire connections to the switch so that you just have a line and load. Factory reset the switch and then double-check to ensure it’s in the 2-way mode.
Did you test to determine which conductor was the line? What color conductor is attached to the Line terminal?
If it’s working ok as a 2-way, then reconnect the traveler and the line connections to the 3-way and reset the switch type.
I tried provisioning the switch with Google Home and things really went haywire: the LED started alternating between cyan and off with the lights flipping on and off too (reboot loop?). I got it into a stable state by turning-off the switch with the air gap, and then turning the light back on from the AUX switch. I was then able to factory reset the switch so that it was usable again (with the quirks mentioned in the original post).
So one thing jumps out at me, but I’m not sure if it’s an issue or not. You are using a non-dimmable load with a dimmer. I know you have the switch set in the on/off mode, but that doesn’t make it an on/off switch. That just makes it a dimmer that only does 0 and 100. Can you provide some specifics regarding the light? Like a make and model?
By chance, do you have an On/Off switch that you can substitute for the dimmer?
To answer your other question, yes, it’s possible the bypass will resolve your issue. Its role is to pass enough power through the light to keep the switch powered. The cyan/yellow flashing you’re seeing is the switch rebooting, which generally means insufficient power.
Given the wiring looks correct, it sounds like my best option here is to try a bypass and/or replace non-dimmable lights (the load includes an integrated LED ceiling light and recessed lights). I don’t think I can use an Inovelli on/off switch because there’s no neutral in the box.
I checked the wiring and it looks correct to me. I might try an Inovelli on/off switch if that could help. This circuit has a similar load (non-dimmable integrated LED ceiling light and recessed lights).
There is a way that you can re-wire to get a hot and neutral to the switch box, but perhaps better to try the other things first.
Are the pictures you posted of the current problem? You referenced a “similar load”, so I’m not sure what I’m looking at. Also, you’ll have to label the pictures and where there is more than one switch, label where the issue is. I can’t do anything with those pictures as is.
I’d try the bypass or at least temporarily swapping out the load to a non-dimmable to see if that makes a difference. You didn’t post any details about the light so it’s impossible to analyze further.
