LZW30-SN (Red series) 4-way setup troubleshooting

I am having trouble getting my LZW30-SN to work in a 4-way setup. Line and Load are in the same box, which is where I am replacing the dumb 3-way with the LZW30-SN. The switch powers up and acts normally using local control or control via Hubitat, but neither of the other switches will change the state of the LZW30-SN.

Additionally, the LZW30-SN does not seem to be acting as a 3-way. When powered on, the “load” terminal gets voltage, but when powered off, the “traveller” terminal does not get voltage. It is behaving as if in a single-pole setup. I found mention of someone talking about the switch detecting when it is in a 3-way/4-way setup. I’ve tried factory resetting the switch but have had no success.

I have 2 of these switches. I’ve successfully wired both switches in a different 3-way setup, with everything working as expected. I’ve also unsucccessfully wired both switches into this 4-way setup, with both switches exhibiting the same behavior.

This 4-way is controlling a floor outlet that has its outlets split. I do not need the floor outlet, but I would like to have the 4-way control working correctly, as I am using it to control some smart bulbs in lamps. I have previously been using a WiFi 3-way in this setup with success. But it requires my Hubitat to poll it frequently to maintain WAF, this causes a noticeable slowdown in my Hubitat due to more cpu cycles being used for device polling. I was hoping to use this switch to push status changes instead of having to poll them on a 1s interval.

@arcxk - I’m going to recommend upgrading to the latest firmware for the switch. They’ve made firmware updates to select parameter 13 (?) that informs the switch it’s either single pole or 3-way.


Thanks for the info. I’ve updated firmware. Set the “Load Type” to “Special Load (T8)” and it correctly toggles the voltage between the “load” and the “traveller” terminals as should be expected. However, toggling the dumb switches does not toggle the LZW30-SN state.

@arcxk - Well that’s good it upgraded for you and you can now select the load type. Now let’s take a look at the wiring. You basically could care less about the floor outlet, and mainly just want to use the scenes from the Inovelli Switch correct? The dumb switches won’t toggle any scenes, but would at least control the floor outlet.

If the picture above is correct, then I would draw it up again with screw terminal colors to ensure the common screws are connected correctly. e.g. the last 3 way dumb switch on right, the white wire needs to go to the common screw. The travelers can go to either/or brass screws. Also, make sure the 4 way is wire correctly. You may need to rewire it to ensure it’s wired correctly.

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@arcxk - Also, can we get some pictures of the units installed? Especially the Inovelli switch. Line to line, load and traveler, etc…

Updated diagram with terminal colors

more images with descriptions: https://imgur.com/a/MMvUzEa

I’ve swapped the 4-way switch wiring, and even completely removed it and wirenutted the corresponding colors together to make it a standard 3-way setup.

Dang…let me think on this one. @Bry @JohnRob Any ideas?

@EricM_Inovelli - @arcxk may be the first one to test the load type on 4way dumb switches. Any ideas or leads?

@EricM_Inovelli should help in here. The wiring is exactly correct. To be honest I’ve never even thought about the Dimmer sending the state to the hub when the 3-way dumb switch was toggled. Its seems like it should but I’ve never needed so I never looked.

Perhaps it has something to do with no load on the switch. Plug in a 60W incandescent lamp into your switched receptacle and test again. I always test with incandescent lamps as it precludes any low load related issues.

What, I was just gonna sit and watch, lol.

Seriously, though . .

@arcxk At the Inovelli, you have the black hot from the panel connected to the line and the white neutral connected to the neutral terminal, right. I’m guessing you do, but we normally draw the line on the bottom left and neutral bottom right so I’m just checking. It’s probably just how you drew it.

You already confirmed that the Inovelli is toggling. I would go a hop at a time and test for the hot you would expect. Go to the 4-way switch and test between the expected hot and the ground, then to the other side of the switch where it comes out, etc. Throw the switches as you’re doing this and check for the expected behavior. At some point that hot is not going to be where it’s supposed to be and maybe we can figure it out from there.

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Yep. That’s correct. My diagram was flipped horizontal for the Inovelli but not the other two switches. I’ve corrected it

There’s a reason you get tagged and why you’re labeled an Inovelli Insider! :slight_smile:

@arcxk - ^ Worth checking for sure. Maybe the switch doesn’t recognize the non-load even though it “should” turn on regardless of load attached or not.

Also, since you have two 3-wire Romex in the Inovelli box, make sure you don’t have them backward. Pull the two travelers off the Inovelli and make sure you have a constant hot on the unswitched receptacle.

I did this earlier and voltages were switched as expected.

I tried with an LED bulb in a lamp (no incandescants around) and everything work exactly as expected. Inovelli toggles correctly with both the 3-way and 4-way switch changes.

@arcxk - Seems to be load dependent then…Just put something small there to stub your toe at night…

Haha. Easier said than done. The floor outlet is under a rug. Previous owners had the 4-way controlling a power strip plugged into that outlet.

Well, at least it will work when something is plugged in . . .:crazy_face:

Aux switches maybe if that’s not practical.

@arcxk - Well that seemed to be designed…well. I guess they had a lamp near a couch. I wonder if you put a AUX bypass in at the outlet, if it’d work…

If you really want to have feedback from the Dimmer output you can put a bypass in the same box as the inovelli.

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I like that idea more than adding a wall outlet below my switch to plug in a light. Trying to explain to my wife that the switches don’t work because the toddler unplugged the nightlight isn’t an ideal scenario.

Do you have an bypass recommendations?