Yup. I need some on/off!
Appreciate the quick response.
Yeah, I knew I had to make scenes, but I am unable to get the switch to work at all now. Must have been something in the firmware update that switched a parameter? I was going from factory (1.35?) to latest. After update, the bulbs blink rapidly and switch goes through multi colors as if the bypass wasn’t wired in. Tried all the logical settings, but no go.
Been battling a nasty sinus and double ear infection for the last week+ so I’ve been home going nuts with little projects, and brain has been kinda mushy. Still with-it enough to know the black wire hurts 
Can someone run down the parameters I’d need for a non-neutral install with 4 hue bulbs and a bypass in a can. (Thanks for knowing what I was talking about) Just to give it hot power and not freak out with seizure inducing disco lights. I can work the scene after I get the thing to stay on.
As for selling, I’ll wait for Blue to hopefully be released, then probably dump the Red. However for the moment they are my only hope at a semblance of normal light switch function, provided I can get ONE working and replicate it for my other rooms.
What process did you follow for the firmware update? Did you flash both files for the firmware update? For the latest firmware it looks like you would need both the 1.45 bin and 1.61 otz files.
Ultimately -
Parameter 21 will need set to Non-Neutral.
You may want to mess with Parameters 5/6 for minimum/maximum dim levels if you’re only having flashing from the lights at certain brightness levels.
Parameter 52 (Smart Bulb Mode) to Smart Bulb
For scenes -
Disable Local Control
Disable Remote Control
@chack With help from Nate at support, I was directed to a working copy of Silicon Labs 5.39 and had me update from the original firmware 1.39 to 1.48 then to 1.57. Yes two part otz and bin. All were a success. Excluded from SmartThings, included to Z wave PC controller 5.39 and zooz stick, then back to ST. Also had a HS smart stick + and the suite of HS4 tools if needed which I didn’t.
Had it set to P21 non-neutral, P52 to Smart Bulb, and tried local and remote disabled and enabled but no joy with any level values. The only way I was able to get the switch to stop flipping out (as if it was power cycling) was to unscrew the hue bulbs with only the bypass installed. Even with the level set max (99) as soon as I screwed the bulbs in, the lightshow started. The more bulbs I screwed in the slower the flashing so it’s definitely a power value setting but I didn’t have the patience to bench test every variation.
Some one has to have made it work, right? Figured it would have been cleaner with the newer firmware, not backwards…
The switch just continually goes red>green>blue when it’s powered? Can you try pulling the air gap all the way out to make sure it shuts off, wait for a few and then push it all the way back in and see if that changes anything? (should go through the red/green/blue cycle once as it boots, but shouldn’t continually be cycling through)
The upgrade/parameters all sound good. If the above doesn’t work, I’d recommend a factory reset. Try to unpair the device from the network if you can first, but otherwise just hold the config button down for 20s until it goes red and then after it resets, you’ll re-pair and redo the parameters.
@chack Yes, R/G/B and repeat. Even after the air gap, same. And way ahead of you. Already did a factory reset.
With NO bulbs, it boots up and functions normally. Light blue for on, bright blue for off. It malfunctions as soon as I screw a bulb in.
I’ve been in IT for 20 some odd years. When in doubt, restart 
Does anyone at Inovelli, or here, have a complete list of parameters line by line? Just to make it turn on and off with a hue bulb load and bypass. No fancy automation stuff, just on and off…at the moment. Gotta get the bulbs to say on before I can make them DO anything.
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Well crap 
that’s pretty much all I’ve got especially not being familiar with ST, though this really doesn’t sound like a hub-specific issue.
The Manual has all the power-related parameters with the exception of Smart Bulb Mode as Parameter 52. Can check the Inovelli SmartThings Driver around line 1073 to get the list of Parameters and descriptions below them.
Can definitely agree with your planned process, etc.
@chack I agree that it doesn’t appear to be hub specific. I suppose I could break out a new one, un-updated, and see how it goes.
It’s really frustrating. I’m doing everything right, I think?
The Manual KB link doesn’t appear to be working.
The language of the parameters isn’t that complicated and it shows up in the ST “edit” screen, but is mostly all geared toward normal bulbs vs these dang fancy ones.
Just want to double check after re-reading the OP. The currently installed Inovelli switch is the LZW31-SN dimmer right? I only ask since you mentioned swapping in an on/off which I believe require neutral wires?
It sounds like you’re running into a similar issue seen - here and here where the smart bulb mode + no neutral combination seems to result in the dimmer not getting enough power and causes the looping behavior.
If you disable smart bulb mode, does the switch work to turn on/off the bulbs? (I know that’s not where we’d want to leave this, just trying to rule things in/out)
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Yep, I didn’t mention it before because I couldn’t put my finger on the post, but I was wondering if that combination was going to be a problem.
Take things in steps. Temporarily swap in some incandescents. Factory reset. Configure for a non-neutral. Then enable Smart Bulb Mode. If you get that far and it’s still cranking, then your wiring and settings are likely correct.
If you then swap in the Hue bulbs, try one at a time. That RGB thing you see on the LED bar is the switch continuously rebooting, likely due to a lack of power. I’m thinking all will go well until you remove the last incandescent.
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Good call. Back to low tech. Had to find some appliance bulbs because I ditched all my incandescent.
Yes I was using LZW31-SN dimmer originally. When I said on/off, I meant dumb on/off. I did have the LZW31-SN dimmer working before the firmware update (acting as a wire nut not doing anything but passing power). It remained on, never touched it, just looked pretty.
Today I factory reset the LZW31-SN dimmer, set to non-neutral, load only. Worked with incandescents. On off dim.
Set to smart bulb and the incandescent stay on, screwed in hue bulbs up to 3 of 4 and all well. The last incandescent out, and flicker. 4th Hue bulb made flicker slower but still there. Mind you I have TWO bypasses in the cans and they did work once upon a time. Did the latest firmware make the LZW31-SN require more resistance? I’ll have to see if I have another bypass but 3 bypasses and 4 bulbs seems a bit much, no?
To add, is there a super heavy duty bypass available? Should I try to make one (Hello digikey technical sales. I need your help.)
Keep in mind that certain LED bulbs just are not compatible. Throw in a non-neutral and that just makes the mix worse. I do not have Hue bulbs so I cannot speak to them specifically.
@Bry Understood, however the switch worked with 2 bypasses and 4 bulbs before the firmware update.
It’s the oldest and simplest room I’m working on at the moment (the one with non-neutral) and using it as a test. I’ll try another room with neutral and 12’ish bulbs.
I could understand lower end lights being overlooked, but home automation stuff isn’t cheap. I’m not using a $40+ switch with a $1 no name amazon bulb.
So more bypasses? And/or anyone have specific parameter settings?
Thanks all for the help though.
Got it. Interesting. Just curious, which firmware worked and which did you go to that didn’t. Do you need a feature in the newer firmware? I believe you can flash an older version without adverse impact. I wonder if it would still work after reverting.
@Bry 1.39 (“working” as in it powered on) to 1.57 (disco)
No reason other than trying to stay current. Seemed like an awful lot to bug fixes since my orig release firmware.
I can try flashing to 1.41 bin/1.48 otz
Did you reset the switch after updating the firmware. When parameters are added or changed, the switch memory can conflict with the updated settings.
Recommend hard resetting the switch.
I give up, unless some one else has a brilliant idea. Anyone from Inovelli want to chime in?
Patched in 4 more hue bulbs to give more load (now a total of 8) along with the 2 bypasses. So much for my pile of cool dimmers which were promised to work with hue bulbs way back when they were pre-released. 
Hey Robert,
First, let me just apologize for all the frustration it looks like you’re going through. I haven’t had as much time to pop in the forum due to the Blue Series and, as you said, the hard work that is going into it. I usually try to pop in as many threads as I can to help, but this one slipped until I was writing up a tutorial on ST and Hue and came across it.
Second, let me try to consolidate what’s happening so I can better help. If it comes down to needing to flash firmware for you or swap them out to Blue Series for you, I’m happy to do so.
The Red Series definitely work with Hue and I’ve had them working on SmartThings since before they were released, so I’m not sure what’s going on in this setup. There were some instances where a bypass was needed, but those were in non-neutral settings. There was also firmware bug that did affect some Hue setups, but that was rare and was fixed as well.
I realize that in some setups things didn’t work as expected and yes, using this experience we have improved on new switches as that’s typically how technology works.
But let’s solve your problem as I’m sure you don’t want to hear my sob story as to how we try our best.
Can you let me know what your exact setup is that you’re having a problem with? I realize this is probably in the thread somewhere, but I got lost along the way trying to keep up.
- Single Pole setup?
- Neutral or Non-neutral?
- How many bulbs - 4?
- What firmware is your switch on?
- Seems like it worked at one point and not the next, can you briefly explain what happened and what happens when you roll back to a firmware that worked?
Again, we’ll make sure to take care of you one way or another. Be it buying them back, fixing the firmware or swapping it for Blue Series - sorry again for the issues, that’s never what we (or me) like to read.
Edit: also, can these instructions be improved upon (setup #2 relates to Hue)? They should walk through how to use ST with a smart bulb: https://support.inovelli.com/portal/en/kb/articles/how-to-control-a-smart-bulb-from-a-smart-switch-smartthings
I will be attempting to write better ones now that we have the KB installed.