I am not sure there is any way to do this, but have to ask:
Can the switch “know” it has been disconnected from the module? It does the pairing and can know then that it paired… but does it check regularly? If so (or if not, can it) could we enable something in the driver (or have the code added) to be able to track this as a debug logging at this point?
The point I am trying to make is that somehow (at one point at least and maybe with or without a firmware change multiple points) the switch knows about the module. If we can track that maybe we can help spot something, especially if there is any sort of signal strength incorporated with that.
What Fan (Make/Model) do you have? This is important.
Harbor Breeze Calera 52-in Antique Bronze Indoor/Outdoor Ceiling Fan (5-Blade) from Lowe’s. Item #20160Model#40107
Does your fan have pull-chains or is it remote operated? (If pull-chain, make sure to set it to high)
Pull chain is set to high.
What wiring schematic are you following? Schematics can be found here: LZW36 Wiring Schematics – NOTE: Please let us know if you have any alternate wiring
Used method 2. Main feed at switch. I have light wire wired to 4 can lights in my living room.
How far from the canopy module is your switch?
10 feet
What is the estimated temperature in your house?
73 degrees
Can you give pics of the canopy installation (show how it’s sitting in the canopy and how it’s wired? I will when I get a chance to take it apart again.
I am using SmartThings hub. It’s connected to SmartThings and I can see button pushes when I push buttons at switch but lights/ fan are not responsive.
What Fan (Make/Model) do you have? This is important.
Hunter HR21332
Does your fan have pull-chains or is it remote operated? (If pull-chain, make sure to set it to high)
Pull-chains (set to high)
What wiring schematic are you following? Schematics can be found here: LZW36 Wiring Schematics – NOTE: Please let us know if you have any alternate wiring
Hi, folks. I’ve had success in “fixing” the issue of intermittent communication between the switch and the canopy module by disabling the 2.4 GHz network on an access point that was in the same room (about 9 feet away). I’m now getting a 100% response rate up from the 1/10 I was getting before making the change. If you have any 2.4 GHz networks within range that might be the root of your problem.
I disabled the AP that is right by the light switch. Currently the Switch has lost communication with the canopy. I will see if it will reconnect on its own and how long it stays connected. Would be a huge bummer if there are issues with 2.4ghz as all of my IoT devices run on 2.4ghz and it is still needed.
I know in the roadmap thread that @EricM_Inovelli said you are unable to change channels. Does it auto select a channel or is it hardcoded?
I have 4x Ubiquiti APs for my house and the 2.4ghz channels are of course 1, 6, 11.
Yea. A quick look at a WiFi analyzer app shows that pretty much all my neighbors are running 2.4 GHz networks, so I don’t think my woes are behind me. At the moment however, removing the strongest one is doing the trick.
If 2.4Ghz is it… might be tough to deal with in my house. But I did try to remove a couple 2.4 items from my office/hobby room where this is located. Cannot hurt to try at least.
I have two lzw36 switches now doing this. Hit local on/off does nothing to the fan or light!
Fan model : both hunter builder, i.e, they came with the house.
Control: pull chain set to high
Wiring: exactly required by the lzw36, no deviation!
Distance: 8 ft
Temp: 82 during working hours, 75 when home. Honeywell total comfort temp control
The two lzw36 switches were replacements for the existing GE zwave fan controllers so no issue in zwave coverage.
Keep pushing the local up or down dim button will eventually turn on the light or the fan! So NONE of the info asked is really needed. Definitely, there is something wrong that why i ask in another post if the zwave portion of the switch is the master and the 2.4g is the slave.
I removed the switches from zwave and now i can control the switches locally plus the switch temp is backing down to normal
No zwave!
Edited… i spoke too soon
Local light control is some what hit and miss thing. If switch on the light sw did not work the first time them keep hitting the up/ down dimmer will eventually turn the light on. Turning it off is another issue. The swich show off but the light stayed on.
Local fan control is the same but the fan stay on even the switch show off status
I haven’t noticed any heat issues at the switch. I do have a Netgear range extender in the same room but on the opposite side from the switch. I unplugged it so I can see if that makes a difference. I did notice that the light switch seems to cause the disconnect more often than the fan switch. I don’t know why that would be.
I’ve had one of my switches installed for 3 days without problem. However, I just now encountered this issue. I was able to recover by pulling the airgap.
Does your fan have pull-chains or is it remote operated? (If pull-chain, make sure to set it to high) Pull chains, lights are on, fan to high
What wiring schematic are you following? Power goes to switch box
How far from the canopy module is your switch? ~5 feet
What is the estimated temperature in your house? ~74 F
Can you give pics of the canopy installation (show how it’s sitting in the canopy and how it’s wired? If it happens again, I’ll tear it apart and get pictures. RF module is at the top of the canopy, against the ceiling. The antenna is exposed about 1.5 inches outside.
I seem to have a slightly more virulent version of this virus!
System was installed yesterday evening, and all worked properly, fan was on through the night. The fan was turned off this morning (thanks Alexa). But then early this afternoon, it went into this Canopy Disconnected scenario (switch response looks good, but nothing happens at the fan).
My case is a little different, as even a power off/on from breaker doesn’t reset it. In fact, 30 seconds after the power is restores, the light starts flashing (not paired, as I understand it). I re-pair from the switch, it goes through the proper motions; flashing light blue, turning green (though interestingly, the light doesn’t stop flashing). But then still not really connected - neither fan nor light come on from either the switch or Smartthings. One other observation, I first tried with LED 3 candelabra bulbs, they “flashed” (on medium, flashing brighter every few seconds). Replaced with incandescent, all better!
Config;
Fan, Hampton Bay 5 year old (sorry, model# not obvious)
2 chains, set to light on & high fan
simple wiring; power to switch & on to fan.
Distance ~10ft
Temp; ~75 F
Canopy picture to follow.
However! Apparently “Time is the great healer” - this morning, it is connected & working again!!
Or maybe @Eric_Inovelli is on to something with temperature. The room is ~75, but the fan is at the top of a vaulted ceiling, so could be warmer up there.
Oh ok. I have flashing bulbs with dimming. I had to change the dimming rate to 0 just to keep them from flashing when turning on and off. I only found one LED bulb that wouldn’t flash when dimming but it won’t fit in the shade.
Mine seems to reconnect overnight. It’s not very warm in my house so if temperature is an issue I can imagine it’s going to get much worse as people install these.
Sounds like I’m not unique - I guess that’s a good thing.
Just wondering what could be happening “overnight” that fixes things! Utah is very much a desert climate - summer days ~95, nights ~65 - so that was my first thought.
Is it 95 in your house where the fan is? I fortunately have great A/C in my house. Where I live it gets to 115+ in the summer. Only been into the 90s so far this year.
95 outside. House is ~75. But up in that ceiling without the fan going, unknown! I’ll measure it this afternoon (today’s outside forecast is 95).
About your “disconnect”, what happens if the fan or light is running, do they just turn themselves off? Mine, I explicitly turned it off, and a bit later it wouldn’t turn on again. I’m going to try leaving the fan on today.
Does your fan have pull-chains or is it remote operated? (If pull-chain, make sure to set it to high)
Pull-chains, set to high / on What wiring schematic are you following?
Power to switch How far from the canopy module is your switch?
10ft What is the estimated temperature in your house?
78F Can you give pics of the canopy installation (show how it’s sitting in the canopy and how it’s wired?
My home has metal junction boxes both at the switch and in the ceiling at the fan. The canopy module sits in the fan canopy, not the junction box, so that ceiling box should have little to no impact. It is wired exactly as diagrammed in the only power-to-switch option you have documented.
