Installing new Red Series switches from old Eaton/Cooper switches. Powered the breaker back on and switch lit up BLUE. I installed the faceplate and when pushing the program button, it got stuck in because the faceplate was to tight. It took me about a minute to get the plate off and by then the light started flashing red. I reset the switch, but now when I turn it on, the room lights come ON, then turn OFF after about a minute and the switch starts flashing RED again. I have reset the switch 3x and always the same issue now.
I’m thinking that the wattage might be too high for this switch. The switch turns on 3 receptacles that have 2 stings of 100 (C9) bulbs each, so the total load has 6 strings!
The old Eaton/Cooper RF9501 Z-Wave switch handled it fine, but this 2-1 Red switch seems to have a problem.
I heard there was a new Z-Wave On/Off (Project Pulsar) switch coming soon. Any thoughts??
You’re using a Red 2-1 to control receptacles? This is the first problem - Since the 2-1 is a dimmer (not an on/off switch), it cannot be used to control receptacles.
I think the second problem is that you are overloading the switch with the amount of lights you are running. From the specs (emphasis mine):
To reduce the risk of overheating and possible damage to other equipment, do not install to control a receptacle, a motor-operated appliance, a fluorescent lighting fixture or a transformer supplied appliance and do not use the VZW31-SN load output to control no more than indicated, which is: 600 Watts (Incandescent), 300 Watts (LED), and 150 Watts (CFL).
If we assume that each of your C9 bulbs are 1W LEDs, that means you’re trying to run 600W on a switch rated for 300W LED load maximum.
That switch will be able to control receptacles as well as handle higher loads. From the specs of the blue series on/off switch. The red series one should be roughly the same once it’s ready.
Maximum Lighting Load (Watts): 120V AC - 960W Incandescent, 600W LED/CFL, 277V AC - 1385W Incandescent, 600W LED/CFL
I would say it’s a better fit for your usecase.
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The C9 bulbs are actually incandescent and are 7W each. So that would be 4,200 watts! Maybe that why the switch only stays on for 60 seconds??
Crazy that an older Cooper Z-Wave switch that is 14 years old and has been working since 2012 is better build than a new Inovelli switch!
Guess I just have to keep it on a toggle switch until the new Inovelli switch is released. Wish the old Cooper Z-Wave RF9501 would work with the Hubitat.
Not crazy at all. You missed @rohan 's point. The VZW31-SN is a DIMMER. You should not wire a DIMMER to a receptacle. In fact, it’s prohibited by the NEC (in the US) for safety reasons. This is primarily because dimmers cannot carry the potential load of a branch circuit i.e. the breaker.
So you’re comparing apples and oranges. The Cooper is a SWITCH, the Inovelli that you installed is a DIMMER.
Well, the Inovelli DIMMER is rated for 600W incandescent and you tried to put 4,200W through it, so you’re probably correct.
Unless you absolutely need Zwave, the Zigbee On/Off switch is presently available.
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The on/off switch though is rated for only 960W Incandescent, so it’s likely also going to be overheat in this use case.
4200W is a lot of power for lighting.
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My old Cooper/Eaton 9501 has worked on the same lights for 10+ years.
I’m currently looking at a Leviton Decora Smart Switch Z-Wave 800 Series, ZW15S-1RW.
States - supports on/off switching of loads up to 15A and 3/4 HP for control of lights, ceiling fans, exhaust fans, motors, pumps, and more.
Any Inovelli blue switch that will work with my other z-wave switches?
It just occurred to me that 4200W is 35 amps, so that figure is doubtful. That would pop a breaker at some point.
I moved the switch to another location to control my entry lights. Al works perfect now. So I just need to find a robust switch for these Christmas lights for next year.
@attilio209 I would recommend a relay controlled by an on/off smart switch. With this you would not be over loading the switch as it will only be powering the relay.
Got it, smart!