I’m still struggling to get it connected, in learn mode, it just doesn’t register.
Did you have the same struggles?
I keep getting a “Replication Error Failured” message in PC software.
To be honest, I don’t really remember. Once I figured out how to remove and got the device linked in secure mode it was smooth sailing.
I think that I did find is that distance had a huge impact on the stability. The further I was away from the hub and the more devices it had to associate with things slowed down and I had more errors. What I ended up doing is installing PC Controller on my laptop and moving around the house with the hub and my laptop keeping everything very close together.
My advice would be to start from scratch. Remove the device and PC Controller. Install a clean copy and get everything within a few feet of each other to set everything up.
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How crucial is the Holtek bin file when updating the red series dimmers? I have been trying for 3 days straight on my 7 dimmers and have only managed to get the bin file to stick for 2 of them. The update seems to just freeze at random - resulting in me having to abort and restart the process - with not much luck - especially frustrating when I reach 300+ packets sent out of 396 and then it stalls…
Is the bin file’s sole purpose to allow setting LED bar to white? If so, I can live without that.
I’m on Smarthings and using a Zooz S2 stick with Silicon Lab’s new “Simplicity Studio” that has PC Controller Ver 5.42.101 loaded.
Thanks
I don’t know if anyone has tried 5.42, but it’s been recommended that only 5.39 PC Controller be used. I would recommend trying 5.39 and see if that works.
The holtek file is required for some of the firmware fixes and should be updated to the latest available file that matches the firmware you’re flashing.
Interesting - is there a way to downgrade PC controller versions somehow? Or do you have a link to the “legacy” version? Silicon Labs now makes you download Studio first (all old links on Inovelli site to PC Controller no longer work, to my knowledge) and from within that tool you have to download PC Controller…and the 5.42 is what they provide by default.
Thanks
Check out the link here:
Sweeet - I’ll give this a shot and see if the version is the culprit. Appreciate it.
Well - it was worth a shot - tried twice and the last time it got stuck on the 140th (or so) packet and I got the log says: unable to receive = 0x01.
I may have to try the direct method to see if that works better.
Thanks again.
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@sparq - Make sure 5.39 actually was running too. But if still no go, could you update your results to let everyone know that 5.42 worked to upgrade?
Definitely worth trying to exclude and try to do it direct.
Thanks!
I can confirm that 5.42 works to update the main switch firmware (as I can see firmware version 1.48 within PC controller on the “get” command) - and 5.42 also worked to update the bin file after repeated tries for 2 of my 7 switches. I will try the direct method on one of the switches and report back if I have success.
I believe PC Controller pre 5.39 had issues with Target 1 as well and that’s why it was recommended to use 5.39. I hope whatever fixes in 5.39 were, it was incorporated in 5.42…but you never know.
I can confirm that version 5.42 works to update the bin file. Direct method was a breeze outside of having to reconfigure the switch and associations within smart apps / automations etc.
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@EricM_Inovelli, I have an issue with updating one of my switches’ firmware from 1.19 to 1.22. Any recommendations?
Some background:
I updated the firmware of a Black series and another Red series switch without any problems.
I am attempting to update the firmware of another Red series switch following the same procedure I did before. However, when I press “Update”, I get “OTA Firmware Update started…” in the logs as usual, but then it stops. Nothing else in the logs. At that point, doing a “Get” command is hit and miss. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. I have a Z-Wave toolbox and can see that at that point, the switch is sometimes flooding the 916MHz channel and sometimes the 908.4MHz one… Rebooting it clears that up.
I rebooted the switch (via air gap), the UZB stick, the Z-Wave PC Controller, but the same always occurs.
I tried another one of my Inovelli Red switch after all of this and it worked perfectly on the first try.
I had the same problem with multiple lzw30-sn flashing from 1.19 or 1.20. When I moved my laptop within a few feet of the switch they locked up a lot less. Some still took a few tries but it wasn’t every time.
Like @stu1811 mentioned, try to get as close to the device as possible. Also, make sure you use the Node info query to make sure that the controller knows which level of security is being used.
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Thanks @stu1811 and @EricM_Inovelli. I have a “test bench” for switches and bulbs. I’ll move it in there and try again with it right next to the hub on the weekend.
What is odd is that I have 18 switches and none except this one gave me an issue… Also, there is a Black series in the same gang box and that one worked perfectly…
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What do you mean right next to hub? AFAIK smartthings hasn’t gone live with the OTA update yet. Do you have your zwave stick in a desktop? I have mine in a a laptop that I move to whatever I’m updating. With to regards to black vs red in not sure. I only have red switches and dimmers. I have 2 bulbs but they already had the latest firmware.
My Zwave stick is indeed in my desktop. It is on the same mesh as my Hubitat hub, so I suspect the update goes from the stick to the Hub (primary controller) and then to the switch…?
Thanks again for your help! @EricM_Inovelli, I did get the Node info and I can now confirm that the issue is not with the switch location, unfortunately. I brought the switch to maybe 4 feet away from the hub (2 fee from the UZB) and sending a Z-Wave update command from the Z-Wave Controller just times out.
Before trying the update, I was able to control it from Hubitat. It won’t respond after trying to update. It seems like it crashes the switch. If I power-cycle it, it is controllable again from the Hub and also from the Z-Wave PC Controller (via the UZB stick).
Any other recommendations?
I also notice that after this issue, the switch’s radio seems to be flooding my Z-Wave Frequency… After trying to update:
And this is the same Network Health stats from after I powered down the switch. (At 12:20:11 - you can see the dip occurring at that point…)
I’ve had issues in the past of a switch flooding my network and disabling my locks, etc… I suspect I have found the culprit!!!
I have often wondered about that too. When using the “secondary controller method” to update firmware, does the path of the packets travel from the UZB stick to the Hub and then to the switch, possibly repeated through other switches based on mesh topology? If that is the case then I think we would want the UZB stick (secondary controller) close to the main hub, not the switch we’re updating.
It would be nice if a true Zwave expert (@bcopeland ?) could confirm or deny if this is how it works with a secondary controller.
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