@dsbaha, the source of the problem seems to be that the zwave stick is not connected in S2 Mode. In another thread they suggested to remove the the controller and repair the network then add it back. Update firmware on LZW30-SN
I have been working on it over the weekend but can’t get my controller to connect in s2, whenever I click Classic Learn mode, the device gets added automatically without security.
@dsbaha & @JasonMacD are you following the exact instructions in the KB article? If you do the inclusion in the old app or if you use the “Scan nearby” option it won’t use S2 inclusion. You have to go through the steps of choosing “Add device” -> “By device type” -> “Generic Z-Wave Device”.
@EricM_Inovelli: I was able to get it to work after a few attempts tonight. I was following the instructions however I think that I was being quick on the steps. I had PC controller open on my desktop and on my phone would click start and immediately following would click classic learn mode.
When I slowed down and waited a minute for my phone to start inclusion mode before click learn mode it connected properly.
All of my switches are connected in S0 except for three. I suspect that the 3 were added in the classic app ages ago and need to be excluded / included first.
If I remember I was having a few issues removing the controller. I found a few steps online and had to put my smartthings in exclusion mode. Once in exclusion mode I went to the PC Controller in the mobile app, click the 3 dots and “edit” and in the settings
select delete device.
I believe the removal timed out and I could select force delete.
To be honest, I don’t really remember. Once I figured out how to remove and got the device linked in secure mode it was smooth sailing.
I think that I did find is that distance had a huge impact on the stability. The further I was away from the hub and the more devices it had to associate with things slowed down and I had more errors. What I ended up doing is installing PC Controller on my laptop and moving around the house with the hub and my laptop keeping everything very close together.
My advice would be to start from scratch. Remove the device and PC Controller. Install a clean copy and get everything within a few feet of each other to set everything up.
How crucial is the Holtek bin file when updating the red series dimmers? I have been trying for 3 days straight on my 7 dimmers and have only managed to get the bin file to stick for 2 of them. The update seems to just freeze at random - resulting in me having to abort and restart the process - with not much luck - especially frustrating when I reach 300+ packets sent out of 396 and then it stalls…
Is the bin file’s sole purpose to allow setting LED bar to white? If so, I can live without that.
I’m on Smarthings and using a Zooz S2 stick with Silicon Lab’s new “Simplicity Studio” that has PC Controller Ver 5.42.101 loaded.
Interesting - is there a way to downgrade PC controller versions somehow? Or do you have a link to the “legacy” version? Silicon Labs now makes you download Studio first (all old links on Inovelli site to PC Controller no longer work, to my knowledge) and from within that tool you have to download PC Controller…and the 5.42 is what they provide by default.
I can confirm that 5.42 works to update the main switch firmware (as I can see firmware version 1.48 within PC controller on the “get” command) - and 5.42 also worked to update the bin file after repeated tries for 2 of my 7 switches. I will try the direct method on one of the switches and report back if I have success.