Yep, two things at the light.
1 - Send a constant hot to the Aux
2 - Connect a single traveler from the Inovelli side over to the Aux.
Looks like this:
@Bry thank you for this. On another note, I do not know how to link to another thread, but found one that might be similar.
Do you think its worth a shot?
- No neutrals in either box
- Line/load in separate boxes (Line in - Box 1, Load - Box 2)
- 2 traveler wires running between the boxes
Solution I wanted to share (and also get everyone’s thoughts on):
In Box 1, I installed a GE aux switch:
- The line (power) and traveler wire A are connected to “neutral” (which allows the power to travel consistently along traveler wire A to Box 2).
- Traveler wire B is connected to “traveler”
In Box 2, I installed an Inovelli Red w/ scene (LZW31-SN):
- Traveler wire A is connected to “line”
- Traveler wire B is connected to “traveler”
- Load is connected to load
- Inovelli has been configured (at the switch) to non-neutral, 3-way aux
This solution worked for me and I am hoping it will help someone else (as I spent about 2 days trying to figure this out). The GE switch in Box 1 works fine, although it can take a couple of seconds to respond. I am going to try and reduce the on/off ramp time on the Inovelli to see if that speeds up the response time from the GE switch.
That would work as long as you’re good with the Inovelli being in box 2.
Thanks @harjms - I am indifferent as to where the Inovelli is installed.
So I would install the Aux in “box 1” and Inovelli in “box 2”. IBased on my wiring, do you have an idea how to interpret? I know the black wire in box 1 is the power, but what is traveler a and b? And in box two what would be the load? Presumably traveler a and b would have to match box 1?
Switch box 1:
Black wire always had 120 v and the others zero no mater the position of switch 2.
Switch box 2 (with switch 1 in the “off” position):
White 120v rest zero
Switch box 2 (with switch 1 in the “on” position):
Red 120v rest zero
So in box 1, connect BLK wire to neutral port of Aux switch. Also connect the Red wire to the second hole of the neutral port on aux switch. Connect remaining wht wire to the traveler port.
In box 2, connect the Red wire to the Line port of Inovelli. Connect the BLK wire to the Load port, and wht wire to the Traveler port.
Secure the connections tightly. Also be sure to connect the bare wire to the Grounds on both switches.
Configure the switch for Nonneutral and 3 way momentary via config button or include to the hub and set via parameters.
@Bry - I’m really hoping it’s tied RED-RED, WHT-WHT between the two sets of ROMEX…hopefully. Definitely worth metering or taking a look at the light box.
Yep. That seems like it should work as long as the wiring matches the dumb switch diagram I posted. Worst case you can continuity test end to end if you can’t get at the box.
I like that approach. Will have to do a new drawing if this works.
Thanks so much for all the feedback. How do I test continuity? I will try tomorrow and hopefully this will work.
You’d touch one lead from the multimeter to the Red wire (copper) in Box 1 and use the other lead to touch the Red wire (copper) in Box 2. Ensure the meter is measuring Ohms. Verify you seem >0 Ohms or listen for the speaker. If the distance is too long to reach between the boxes, then you’ll need to use a longer wire to reach it or, if comfortable, tie the RED and WHT together in Box 1 and use the two leads in Box 2 to test continuity of the wires.
This is with the breaker OFF.
Sometimes in life…just gotta roll with the voltage.
Circuit “open” vice “shut”.
Here is an updated drawing based on @harjms logic. This presumes that the connections in the light box are the same as in the top right diagram.
@harjms @Bry - I wired all up and working but not perfect. maybe it is the configuration of the switch. I have set it up non neutral with aux switch. Is that the same as what you say above “nonneutral” and “3 way momentary”? Or is that a different setting? I
The inovelli switch works as expected and the aux switch “sort of” works. There is a delay and sometimes when you hit the switch it likes it almost didn’t register and if you hit again it will turn on or off. Also, if you shut it off and quickly try to turn on again it does not seem to register. Almost like there is a delay / waiting period before you can give it the next command.
Any thoughts?
What is your load and approximate wattage?
So the Aux works, but intermittently?
Yes, it should be non-neutral and 3-way momentary.
What hub are you using?
What Aux are you using?
there are 9 recessed lights - approx wattage 76.5W in total.
Correct, aux works but intermittently. the hub is 2gig and the aux is the GE 46199.
Is “3 way momentary” a different setting than aux switch?
Recommend setting parameters 21/22 via the hub vs. from the switch.
3-way momentary is an Aux Switch. The other choice is toggle (in 3-way mode). Toggle is the dumb switch.
In addition to @harjms comments, you can try reducing the max brightness at least temporarily. Or if the bulbs are swappable in the recessed lights, try temporarily swapping for incandescent to see if results change.
I do occasionally see a small delay in getting ready for subsequent presses. I don’t know anything about 2Gig, but I’m on ST and ST’s cloud can factor in a delay.
Thanks so much. It is workable and better than having to get someone in here to re wire etc.
If your switches support it you could try using Z-Wave association to create a virtual 3-way switch which should give you the option for neutral in each switch box? With this setup the second switch would not be physically controlling the lighting circuit, instead the second switch would be controlling the first switch wirelessly through the Z-Wave network. From what I understand with Z-Wave association the switches will wirelessly communicate directly between each other without the need for a hub so if the hub is off line the 3-way switch will still work.
Fyi, I have not tried setting up Z-Wave association yet so I don’t have any experience in this and don’t know what the drawbacks would be. I do plan on trying this in a couple months because I have basement lights that I want to control from the top of my stairs and do not want to run Romex between the switches.
I don’t know if it is better to have a neutral and use Z-Wave association for virtual 3-way or have a 3-way setup without a neutral. Someone else might be able to chime in on this.