You’re probably going to have to bend the FETs up so you can get in behind them. They’ll fold back down when you sandwich it shut. As long as you’re not frequently bending them like that, it shouldn’t be too rough on them.
Make sure those pins really click back in to place. You want them holding everything tight.
I have a bunch of sengled door sensor… Replacing them now, ,they have aways had trouble with z-wave routing. Any change in the network required rebooting them. They also fell off the network a few times and had to be re-added. And this was before adding any inovelli devices…
Anyone willing to make a video showing the switch disassembly and reassembly?
Thanks guys I got it, not too bad doing the repair on subsequent switches after the first one.
Any tips on how to get the plastic pins back through when putting it back together? Having a heck of a time trying to get it back in.
Try looking for it after it pops out of the tweezers 
I’ve never soldiered anything meaningful in my life, and have a cheapo iron from a general tech repair kit, and managed to drop a bead that didn’t totally cover half that tiny board, and magically got it paired up at 15 ft (previously would only pair if there was a plug within 2 feet) at 255 LQI.
That being said, to do this halfway competently is quite a task. That signal board and the contacts in question are TINY. If you’re like me, with little to no soldering experience I do not recommend…
Bridging R1 got my master bedroom switch that was off the network because it was too far away working. The repair is a pain to do though (at least for me), so I think I’m only going to fix the other two that have spotty connectivity, then wait for the replacements.
So is my understanding correct that with the jumper on R4, the antenna is not connected?
Am I the only one who thought you were just measuring leads/setting reference? That resistor is tiny!
I wonder if conductive paint applied via a syringe is a viable solution. I took mine apart and didn’t even attempt the fix with my old radio shack iron once I saw how small it was. If the syringe method works it might be possible to apply without complete disability - but those dang clips would still need to come out.
On the clips I gave up on putting them in correctly and just flipped them. Very easy to install that way and it still holds everything together. I haven’t attempted a second removal though so that might be more difficult installed in that orientation.
Yes, the RF signal is not fed to the antenna with it on R4.
Unfortunately it looks like I’m 3 for 3 with this issue 
I can’t even pair my device. It seems like when I turn the switch off (it works manually but won’t pair) it repeatedly clicks…is there a way to disable this? I assume this is some sort of “demo” mode or pre-pairing mode…but since I can’t pair, it’s very obnoxious.
If anyone can advise if there’s a way to deal with that, that doesn’t include pairing the device, I would really appreciate it. Otherwise I need to (semi-quickly) get this swapped back out for the prior switch, which I hadn’t accounted for, planning-wise, in the time I had to get this working today…
FYI - I never got an email, but I filled out the form in this thread.
This is not normal. the switch should not repeatedly click unless something is amiss. Wiring correct?
On that note I did get an email and I used the form linked but didn’t get a confirmation email? Not sure if those were sent out yet to confirm they received our form and they will send us replacements?
2-way or 3-way? There is a firmware update for 3-way dumb switch setups.
I will re check the wiring but it should be correct.
I guess either way if it’s not normal I’ll just remove it now
This was apparently reversal of line/load on this switch oof. Had to move things around while everything was disconnected to get it to fit on the new switch, must have switched them an odd number of times.
edit: Still can’t connect the switch to my Zigbee network though
