Firmware v1.45 (Beta) | LZW31-SN | Dimmer - Red Series (Gen 2)

And all these devices are joined non-secure correct?

For the disable local control are you toggling the child device switch or the one that actually enables /disables?

They weren’t so clearly labeled on previous driver versions.

For the LED color, is there any value in the custom color field? This will override the setting in the drop down.

Yes, correct local control, and even if I put the custom color in, the color stays blue. I deleted it and selected the new white, and nothing. Very confused.

Can you make sure both debug and information logging are enabled and then try to turn it on / off and change some settings? Also, turn it on / off from the wall and try to activate some scenes. See if there is any response in the logs from the device.

Can’t seem to get the LED to change to white on mine. I updated the firmware to 1.45 and updated the Driver code in Hubitat to include the newest version with the “1.45 only” white option. I remove my “custom RGB” value and select “white”. The LED turns red. Parameter 13 says 234.

I experimented a bit and changed it to pink just to make sure the drop down was taking effect. The bar does change to pink and then parameter 13 changes to 255 (which is what I thought white was supposed to be?) A bit confusing. But doesn’t seem to work for me, regardless.

Quick question for ya - did you update the .bin file too? You’ll have to do that in order for it to work properly.

Oh. No. I don’t think I can do that with the Z-Wave updater in Hubitat. Don’t I need another USB stick or something?

…and I also don’t run Windows (I use Linux). :frowning:

Yeah… Sorry :frowning:

@EricM_Inovelli - as instructed. The first image are the lines are from just trying to change the colors of the strip from white to pink (no custom value):

The rest of the commands are local operation of the switch (It will not respond to scenes at the switch) The list is a lot longer but it looks pretty typical:

These last couple lines are me disabling and re-enabling local control at the UI - please note, it does nothing to the actual switch, but the UI looks like it did:

Lemme know if I should try re-zapping it or something else you see?

I also tried to re-add the other two switches today (after a 5-minute power down of the Hubitat), thinking that things just needed a good reset, and resetting the switches, but they will not re-add.

I did not enable security for them, and when I did the flashing, I canceled the security on the pop-up per the instructions. I will bet dollars to donuts that I did something wrong, but I cannot figure out what.

Thanks Eric.

@EricM_Inovelli

Reporting on Hue bulbs, having an issue with low loads. When the bulbs are dimmed such that the load is less than ~8 watts per the power meter, the lights will operate fine for a few seconds to a few minutes, then lose power for ~0.1 seconds before re-gaining power and reverting to their default states.

Occasionally (5% of the time?) the power remains off and I need to turn off and turn on the switch to restore power to the bulbs.

Single LZW31-SN (not 3-way) with neutral wire. Firmware 1.45 and target 1 updated, flashed both twice.
Four Hue white ambiance bulbs, no other load.

Changing the switch type (load only / 3-way toggle / 3-way momentary) has no effect.

Edit: I have this setup in two rooms in the house, and both are having the same issue.

I ordered up a Zooz S2 stick and will try the programming on the gaming PC I have in another part of the house.

Has there been any movement on being able to update Target 1 from the Hubitat updater? I know @bcopeland said he was talking with you folks and (maybe?) the chipset manufacturer. That seems like it’d be a real game changer.

Sounds similar to the issue I’ve been reporting. @EricM_Inovelli Some numbers for you:

  • When all my Hue bulbs are “off”, reported power draw is between 4.8 and 5.4 W.
  • With all bulbs on at full brightness, reported power is 83.9 W.
  • In the dim setting, where I have problems, power draw is 15.5 W. It’s in this state only that I will have problems where the bulbs will lose power, and I’ll have to either a) reset the dimmer via the air gap switch, or b) tell the dimmer to turn off and back on via z-wave (I have local protection enabled). Disabling local protection and toggling off/on via the dimmer paddle also fixes it.
  • When the bulbs lose power, the dimmer reports power at 4.1 W (lower than when the bulbs are powered but “off”). I don’t know what’s consuming this power, since none of the bulbs are responsive.

It doesn’t make sense to me that the dimmer happily supplies power at 5 W with all bulbs off, but has issues with a slightly higher 15 W load. But that’s the way it is. :man_shrugging:

I have similar configurations in other rooms, but I don’t ever dim the bulbs in those rooms. But I’ll try it and see what behavior I get.

Has anyone else had the 1.45 firmware freeze up their switches? I have done 3 and each has required an air gap pull at least every other day. I’m working with a completely new ST install per my other thread so not sure what is up…

I have half of the house (15 Switches) on 1.45 as I am still deploying switches slowly. I upgraded all of them last weekend and have not had any issues yet. I am on HE and only use iLumin Smart Bulbs though.

-Travis

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Still looking for an answer to this Firmware v1.45 (Beta) | LZW31-SN | Dimmer - Red Series (Gen 2) , no remote dimming from apps or voice from switch to associated bulbs(LZW36. Only HA adjustment via ST integration works??? In addition my LED has stopped working on a LZW30-SN with v1.17, just noticed today, will post more under the 1.17 posts later.
I still am at a loss for this working through physical interaction only and Home Assistant via ST??

I updated one of my LZW31 black dimmers and it now seems to be behaving incorrectly in the four way configuration. When I put the switch in “load only” mode, it behaves as expected. When I goto “three way toggle,” the relay appears to be controlling the light but it’s not dimming.

When I press the up paddle, the relay clicks and the light turns on to full brightness. The LED moves at the as-if it’s dimming. When I press the off paddle, the light stays on during the dim until it gets to the bottom and the relay clicks. If I flip the dumb switches, the light either will turn on/off correctly or quickly jump from off to on back to off.

Everything was working correctly until I updated the firmware. I’ve tried factory reseting and rebooting the switch but still no luck. Seeing this behavior right after reset before pairing. Any ideas on how to get this dimmer working again?

EDIT: I tried updating the firmware again and the light started strobing really quickly. Luckily, I just pulled the air gap switch, pushed it back in to reboot, and now the dimmer is working again!

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Yep…I’ve experienced that with my shower light. Talk about waking up quick!

Any issues with a three ways setup and this firmware? I’m trying to track down an issue I’m having to see if it’s related to this firmware or driver as the switch was working fine. Basically on/off works perfect from the Inovelli switch, but if the light is on and I turn off the non-smart switch the light turns off and then I hear the relay click on and the light turns on. So the non-smart switch will always turn the light off only to have the Inovelli switch turn it back on. Only if I use the Inovelli switch or app to turn the light off will it turn off.

I have it working in 3-way in several locations, but the companion dumb switches are dimmers. Working great since the release date.

Sounds like it might be a wiring issue, but it would be odd if that didn’t happen with the previous firmware.

Did you set the advanced parameters (neutral, 3-way) after flashing? That’s the only thing I can think of that would change with a firmware update.

I ran into this problem after updating the firmware on one of my dimmers. I was able to fix it by just flashing the firmware a second time (no amount of reseting, rebooting, or parameter changes helped).