Tips for Blue 2in1 zigbee inclusion range

I’m using the ConBee 2, and no extension.

I got it to pair last night using an Aqara plug as the router, but the plug has to be in the same room (almost right under the switch) in order for it to work. I haven’t tried moving the switch yet.

Well, I thought I had mine figured out but without changing literally anything, 45 minutes after pairing the switch dropped. It became unavailable and hasn’t been back since. :-1:t2:

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What process are you all using to reset the switch?

I would definitely recommend a usb2 extension cable (or usb3 is fine if it’s plugged into a usb2 port), the ports themselves can cause interference with the zigbee radio where having that extension cable can make a significant difference.

Also confirming there isn’t overlap with the zigbee channel you use and the 2.4GHz wireless channel like @epow listed above. One note there too is channel 26 isn’t supported by all Zigbee devices so be aware of that if you end up needing to use the high end, 25 is probably preferable.

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Do you have an extension kicking around? It helped with my sonoff stick.

Hold the config button (A) followed by the top of the paddle for 20 seconds (or until the LED bar flashes red) – then release the config button followed by the top of the paddle to initiate the pairing process

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Yep, that’s what I was doing. Thanks.

Thanks @chack, @stu1811, and @epow!

I added an extension (moved it away from the closest AP), and adjusted the 2.4GHz channel on both of my APs to be on channel 11, which is as far as possible from zigbee ch 11 (according to epow’s graph).

I was able to pair it right away with those changes.

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I also switched out my usb extension and the switch I was having an issue with paired right away. I was previously using a small extension dongle from an old Logitech keyboard. I swapped that out with a simple 3’ Amazon basics usb extension

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Glad to hear that was the key for you as well!

I didn’t really have many zigbee devices before this and definitely no issues with connectivity before, but I’m glad this is helping to refine my setup. The only downside is that my HA box looks like an octopus with all the extension cables coming out of it.

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I’m up to 3 USB extensions now. Zwave, zigbee, and rtl-sdr.

Edit: rtl-sdr allows me to capture data from smart water and gas meters

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I’ll have to check that out for the water/gas meters. I’d love to be able to pull that data too.

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HA Addon

Thanks @epow @chack @stu1811 and others for the advice -

I purchased and added a USB extension and have not had any issues again so far. I am unable to play with channel assignment with my eero network, but that doesn’t appear to be a problem now and hasn’t seemed to be an issue with my other zigbee devices so far, so hopefully that will stay true!

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For those of you on Hubitat, there’s some really good info about how to ditch your patch antenna and install an external antenna here, courtesy of @lewis.heidrick:

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Full disclosure, this was a really informative read – thanks everyone for the collaboration. I’m thinking it’s probably a good idea to create some sort of Wiki that explains what’s talked about here (ie: range optimization, issues, solution, etc).

I’m about to really humble myself here and say that I don’t really know where to start and don’t really know what you all did to fix things, but I’m willing to learn. Would anyone be willing to help me create some sort of Zigbee troubleshooting page that goes through how to best optimize your Zigbee network as well as tips in case things go south during installation?

I’m seeing some common themes with inclusion and network drop-offs that I’m hoping this would remedy.

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Long and the short of it is the ensure your zigbee channel doesn’t use the same channel (frequency) as your wifi AND always use a USB extension.

Basically @epow post here: Tips for Blue 2in1 zigbee inclusion range - #13 by epow

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Unfortunately, some of us have more than 3 APs that need Ch 1, 6, and 11 utilized, so it’s not always an easy fit to change the channel to a unused freq. I will say, people need to give up on the 40 mhz BW for their 2.4 network and ensure they’re using only Ch 1, 6, and 11.

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This :point_up: is very true. Use the 5GHz band for fast wifi, and restrict your 2.4GHz channels to slower speeds and less bandwidth. Then, for example, you’ll be able to (hopefully) squeak in a Zigbee channel 15 between wifi channels 1 and 6.

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Hey Eric,

I’d love to help if I can. Expanding on @epow’s post with a additional information. Top tips and info would include:
Basics:

  • Zigbee Devices - There are three types of zigbee devices.
    • Coordinator - This is your main zigbee usb device. There can only be one coordinator per zigbee netowrk
    • Routers - Mains powered devices act a zigbee “router” (this includes Inovelli switches) and can route traffic to other zigbee nodes
    • End Devices - Battery powered devices can only act as an “end node”. They connect to one other node and it could be either your coordinator or a router.

Tips:

  • Always use a usb extension cable - USB port themselves can cause interference particularly with devices that utilize antennas (Zigbee, Z-Wave, etc). Using an extension cable physically separates device from the port itself. USB3 is a worse offender with interference, because of this USB2 ports and cables are recommended.
  • Zigbee Channels - Zigbee operates in the same frequency space as 2.4 ghz wifi. If possible analyze your network and keep zigbee traffic as far apart from wifi traffic as possible. Usually it is easier to change your wifi channels via your router settings. It is possible to change the zigbee channel but this requires removing and re-adding all zigbee devices. (See @epow’s image here: WIfi & Zibee Channels
  • Zigbee Inclusion
    • It is possible using zigbee2mqtt as well as zha (home assistant) to pair devices via another routing device. Methods are different for each but could be valuable when trying to pair a device outside of the range of the zigbee coordinator.
    • Sometimes other power cables inside the electrical box can cause pairing issues. It may help to carefully pair the device before screwing into the switch box
    • “Air Gap” the switches to reset them seems to be a fool proof way to get the switch back into pairing mode. Following the other reset procedures in sometimes unsuccessful after numerous failed attempts.

More information for building a strong zigbee network can be found on various other sites:
Home Assistant Zigbee Tips
Hubitat Zigbee Tips

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