About 30% of the time when a switch is turned on via occupancy detection its like a flashbang. The light flashes at full brightness for a split second then starts its dimming up.
I can’t seem to find a way to set it to full sine wave on this one. I have several lights thay make an awful hum without them set to full sine. ** Edit im not sure why but changing switch type from Single Pole to Aux and then back fixed it for now.
Just did my first install of this switch replacing a Jasco Motion sensor switch. I am playing with how quickly I can make the switch turn on/off. Turning on quickly hasn’t been an issue. However I have been unable to get the switch to turn off any faster than ~6 seconds after motion stops.
I have noticed one bug though I have not narrowed it down as to cause. The switch can get into a state where it won’t turn on light in dimmer mode. I first encountered this issue after misconfiguring left/right motion zones, not realizing left needed to be negative I had something like 175 left 120 right.
In order to get switch working gain had to fix not only misconfiguration but also toggle smart switch mode on. Then it happened again later, no idea why. That time I switched from dimmer→on/off→dimmer and it started working again. When it is in the bad state the led bar shows correct but load does not switch. Similarly hub shows on off state as well.
Will test more to see if I can figure out how to reliably produce issue.
Do you mean they come from the default quirk for the device (switch)? And you’re saying that when the PR for the quirk gets merged into the zha-device-handlers, and HA gets updated to use that new version, and we remove the custom quirk, that the duplicate will get removed?
I just installed my first of these switches and it doesn’t seem to be detecting presence. Here are a few details from my attempt to get things working:
I replaced a VZM31-SN (Blue 3 in 1 now called Blue Dimmer) with this switch.
I can control the switch via Home Assistant to turn it on and off and I see all of the custom configuration options (duplicated in the UI as others have discussed).
When I enter the room, the light does not automatically turn on (which I read was the default).
The occupancy sensor in Home Assistant does not change.
I’ve tried changing a few of the settings for presence detection, but set them back to the default when they didn’t change anything.
I don’t have anything that stands out in my Home Assistant logs about there being any issues.
I have more to switches install, but I was hoping to get one working properly before moving on and installing more. Should I assume there’s something wrong with this switch or move on and start trying some of the others I have to install? Any troubleshooting ideas to try?
I don’t know how it’s exposed in ZHA, but you should be able to trigger a reset of the mmwave module. If that isn’t exposed, you can try factory resetting the switch and testing it without a hub connected. I would also try swapping out for a different switch.
I have observed that walking past the room where switch is (not even past the door just the wall, no los to switch) causes the switch to detect motion. As best I can figure it is the floor joist transferring a very subtle motion into the wall. This is not a big issue but wondering if anyone else has encountered this and if so how they fixed it.
Does factory resetting the switch also reset the mmwave MCU? (Previous attempts to factory reset didn’t get the switch working, but this procedure did.)
Of note as well, though, after posting last night, the switch detected movement several times throughout the night (when no one was in the room). But in the morning it still didn’t trigger properly for me entering until after doing the MCU reset.
I had to set mine to about 6 inches above the floor and about 2 to 3 from each wall. After setting these I had to set the interference area last. so, after doing it this way it seems to have stabilized for me. I am in process of putting a KB together to kind of walk through some items. I have placed them in the most harsh spots I could find to try and get false triggers and figure out how to work them out. Depending on room environment you may need to set them just shy of what you measure.
My own experience is that I have been able to work around these issues with proper configuration, so I encourage others to try this out. For example, I have a bathroom that the switch is facing into the room and a mirror is to the right just a few feet away. This caused reflection that would trigger the presence when walking by in the hallway. I was able to 100% resolve it with the following settings:
P101-106 set to the exact dimensions of the room except for the depth (105) I set to 20cm so it would ignore that little bit right before entering the room.
Sensitivity set to medium
The room now is basically perfectly covered. I think you could also stand outside the door while moving and set the “interference area” but I didn’t need to do that. Just another option.
The response time is still really good and I use it with some of my favorite other settings like: I have a schedule that changes the “default level local” based on the time of day. So when I walk into the room in the middle of the night I am not blinded by the light. Also, during the day it turns on at its brightest.
For me as with @EricM_Inovelli it was finding the balance. MMWave can penetrate through drywall, detect thermal waves, etc so placement and room conditions do play a big factor i.e. if your furnace kicks on the thermal movement can be an issue. When I first installed a MMWave in my laundry room someone entering the bathroom, which is on the other side of the wall from the laundry room, it would trigger. So, for me setting the dimensions to just smaller than actual size was critical for me to eliminate false triggers. So some things to keep in mind location of windows, heating register/vents, fans, fireplaces, traffic in adjacent rooms, mirrors, through windows (tree movement, birds, etc.).
Also don’t forget that all of the parameters are from the perspective of the switch, not from the perspective of you looking at the switch. Left/right is likely opposite of what you think it is.
I did this now, it is significantly better for false positives. Haven’t seen any yet (though only a couple hours of run time with new settings)
Even when it had false positives it was still wildly better than the jasco motion sensor switch it replaced!
This is what I was seeing before and I thought I must be crazy or there was some other factor because I figured the frequency of mmWave was so high there was no way it could punch through drywall.
@bureau.radii, excellent. I am glad to hear this helped. Two of the switches I installed were intentionally placed in the most harsh locations I could think of. The first few days were very low on the wife approval factor but no seldom get any complaints.
I have a (non-Inovelli) mmWave sensor directly mounted to the drywall ceiling in the attic in my kitchen facing down, and it works fantastic! I’ve got another mounted inside a solid wood cabinet door facing out, and it also works pretty well. mmWave is pretty amazing, depending on the sensor (I’ve also got some that are barely configurable and are terrible at false positives that I kinda hate).