Blue Series 2-1 Switch - Enhancements/Bugs Thread

@EricM_Inovelli New driver bug report (I think)…

In Smartthings, when 2-in-1 is set to on/off mode the driver still displays dimming level which is adjustable and sticks. I’m not certain if it is actually adjusting the output but I would assume it should not be availible when the switch is set to on/off or at minimum the user should not be able to adjust it.

New feature request: toggle mode. I use this on every Zooz switch in my zwave mesh… I like to just slap at the wall without precision and have the light change state, regardless of which part of the paddle I actually hit.

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I’ll see if I can get the driver to change the profile based on a specific setting. For reference though, adjusting the level when the device is in on/off mode doesn’t actually adjust the level (unless you set the level to 0 I believe, which will turn the switch off).

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I second that. It only make sense for a dimmer to allow its users to:

  1. Turn the lights on and off
  2. Set the desired level
  3. Easily jump to full brightness.
  4. Easily jump to the a pre-determined level for that room (call it comfort level, relaxing level, night light, or whatever that might be).

It already does 1 to 3 and 4 should be a firmware change so… an easy one? :sunglasses:

From an user experience perspective, that can provide complete lighting control through an intuitive and simple “user interface” that is consistent across the home (all switches) and will work regardless of hub support.

I can tell from experience. My family started adopting these same features from Zooz switches through the house hours after I installed them a while back. And as expected, it was their number one complain when I moved to the RED series and they lost it.

My installer just installed our first Blue switch this last weekend. We have a couple of red ones.

The first thing he mentioned was the non-professional screws.

It’s his preference when working on a large job to just use the square bit with an electric drive for electrical work all day long.

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The Reds have Robertson screws. Future releases of the Blues will as well.

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@EricM_Inovelli Just checking if this is a bug or how the switch is intended to work?

Chiming in that I also had this happen on a switch, but you only do it once! Now I check for it when wiring my ground.

I’m having a hard time understanding the question. :confused: Can either of you re-phrase it a different way so its easier to understand the issue :thinking: State the specific parameters you are using and even better if you can post some screenshots.

It already does all 4. Set Param 13 to the desired ‘comfort’ level. If light is off just turn it on and it will go to that level. If the light is on at a different level a quick tap of down/up will set it to the ‘comfort’ level

state: off
defaultLed7IntensityWhenOff: 101 = Syncronized

state: off
defaultLed7IntensityWhenOff: 100
(This works as expected, led7 overrides the sync value and goes to 100%)



state: on
brightness: 255
defaultLed7IntensityWhenOn: 101 = Syncronized

state: on
brightness: 255
defaultLed7IntensityWhenOn: 0
(This works as expected, led7 overrides the sync value and goes to 0%)



state: on
brightness: 1
defaultLed7IntensityWhenOn: 101 = Syncronized

state: on
brightness: 1
defaultLed7IntensityWhenOn: 100
(This does not work as expected, led7 should overrides the sync value and go to 100%. However it never goes higher than the sync value)



defaultLed[1-7]IntensityWhenOff Always Works
defaultLed[1-7]IntensityWhenOn only works when less than Syncronized Brightness

Hmm… I’m on home assistant so the parameters exposed through the user interface are not numbered but based on this document I can tell 13 is default level for when the light is turned on.

Here is a hypothetical scenario:

  1. Bedroom lights are too bright so we set the default level to 70%, which is easy on the eyes for every day tasks.
  2. At any time they can double tap to full brightness making it really bright (e.g: home work time, cleaning and so on).
  3. When sleeping, relaxing, maybe watching a movie or even when the room is empty and you want to use the right amount of light to give it that cozy feeling, you need that 3rd pre-set that is missing (which Zooz called night-light i believe).

Basically double tapping the bottom paddle will bring it to a level that is not your default and neither full brightness.

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Ahh good example. I understand it now and agree a double-tap down feature similar to double-tap up would be a nice (and logical) enhancement. I’ll post it to github

Edit: created GitHub issue #134 Enhancement request double-tap down similar to double tap up

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Any update on a fix for reporting state changes on manual button presses? Using Zigbee2MQTT…

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To be honest, those parameters were not supposed to be included with the initial launch, so I have not done much testing on them. The way you are describing it makes sense that it is a bug though. The conflict between showing the load level and the setting for the single LED intensity is the main reason I held back on those options for launch.

@fxlt It seems like maybe the reporting didn’t get configured during pairing. Can you show your “Bind” and “Reporting” tab for the device?

Thanks for taking a look.


Edit: I see now if I manually add Endpoint 1 Cluster OnOff Attribute onOff with an appropriate min rep interval and max rep interval, the switch correctly reports it state when manually pressed. I’ve had to manually add this to every blue series switch I’ve added to Z2M. Why isn’t this automatically done when adding the switch to Z2M?

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I think this was a bug that was in an older version of z2m. Can you make sure you have upgraded to the latest version and then click the “Configure” button on the device page?

@nathanfiscus mentioned this to me.

Its only in the latest dev build to my knowledge.

I’m fairly certain I had upgraded to 1.28.2-1 before adding the last couple of switches.

I removed the manual OnOff entry for one of the switches and then clicked the “Configure” button. No additional “Reporting” entries were created.

Edit: I’m not using the dev build, so that would explain why nothing happened.

Can a configuration parameter be exposed to allow the switch to operate as an end device rather than a router or set to default to an end device for devices with bad IEEE addresses. That would allow those of us with defective switches to keep using them without damaging the mesh.

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