Blue switch shutting off when smart light is turned off by another switch

This is a follow-up from a post back in July: Need help installing Blue Series (VZM31SN) in three way. Aux may be needed? that Kodiac was able to help me get squared away. I got everything working exactly the way discussed with them at the conclusion of the thread.

The current topology of this piece of my home setup is roughly:

The section in red is the circuit discussed in the original post. It’s a non-neutral setup utilizing a Blue switch downstairs in the living room and an aux switch in the hallway at the top of the stairs. There are Hue ceiling lights at the start of the stairs in the living room and at the top of the stairs in the upstairs hallway.

Blue Switch 1 is the “legacy” living room light circuit. It’s configured in smart bulb mode and controls a handful of lamps. It now also controls the the ceiling light that was part of the stairwell circuit that was discussed in the previous thread. Blue Switch 2 and Inovelli Aux control the upstairs ceiling light, also via smart bulb controls.

Everything mostly works. However, I’ve noticed that if the Living Room Hue Ceiling Light is shut off, Blue Switch 2 will sometimes power itself off. Turning the ceiling light back on via smart controls or Blue Switch 1 will power the switch back up. Sometimes, even when powered on, the Aux switch needs to be pressed a handful of times before the Upstairs Hallway Ceiling Light will turn on.

I originally had a single bypass installed on the upstairs light. I’ve since added one to the one in the living room as well. I found the following topic that suggested that multiple bypasses might be needed in a stacked configuration:

Would this possibly fix the behavior I’m seeing? If so, I assume I should add additional to the Living Room?

Finally - by “stacked” I’m assuming it would be like so, versus in series?

Blue Switch 1 is a separate switch circuit, and should have no bearing on the light for the stairs… which was fed from the single gang box upstairs. It shouldn’t matter at all if it is on or off.

It sounds like there is a Aux detection issue that got introduced with the newer firmwares on some models. 3.07 adds the ability to set the levels, but it is in beta I believe, you’d have to request to get it.

As far as “stacking” bypasses, your illustration is correct… You’d only want bypasses in one of the lights on the circuit, likely the upstairs one, even if you need to “stack” them. You don’t want them on both lights.

It has a bearing in the sense that it is bound to one of the lights on the impacted circuit. When it turns off the ceiling light, the other blue switch loses power. The thread I linked talking about stacking bypass switches shows a similar issue as far as I can tell.

If I’m understanding your reply correctly re: the aux bug, that’s likely related to sometimes needing to press the aux switch multiple times?

I’m assuming the switch losing power when that other light is turned off likely means I need an additional bypass or two like he said…?

So, regardless of where they are controlled from, both of those cans feed through Blue Switch 2. If one light has power, so does the other. What that tells me then is that the downstairs light being on allows Switch 2 to receive that little bit of extra power through the Load wire, pointing to needing additional bypasses installed in the circuit. Again, these should all be installed at the first connected light, so if possible, they should all be installed in the upstairs light.

The Aux detection issue may be exacerbated by the no neutral connection with it needing even that much more power (regardless of however miniscule it may be) to operate the Aux switch in addition to the main switch. If you get the bypass issue solved first, this may “fix” the Aux issue.

I can’t remember if it was brought up in the previous post, but if you can modify the wiring in the upstairs light to feed the single gang box with a hot (Line) and a neutral instead of a hot (Line)and a switch leg (Load), you can “bypass” all this no neutral nonsense… but you’d need to move the dimmer to the top of the stairs and move the aux switch to the bottom.